Minwax® Water Based Polyurethane for Floors is a durable protective finish specifically formulated for hardwood floors. Hello, there is really good info on here so I hope you can help me. I wanted to do a refinish on a small antique vanity table and went completely the wrong way abut it. I prepped it then used applied two layers of spray primer then used chalk paint (I don’t know why…..!) and then sanded and waxed it. I am not satisfied how it turned out because used clear finishing min was and the piece is to white, I was looking for more of an aged look.
Get a can of Zinser’s spray shellac (most of the brands of pre-mixed shellac on the market are worthless – they sit in warehouses and go bad, have all kinds of contminants, and are not worth using – until Zinser came out with their new shellac a few years ago, the only way to use it was to mix your own – a finicky process that takes a day or more.
Water-based wipe on poly is actually regular waterbased polyurethane that has already been diluted down with water (I believe the consistency is 25% polyurethane to 75% water if your diluting regular polyurethane yourself.) You can do the same with oil based polyurethane, but you would need to use an oil based paint thinner such as mineral spirits to dilute it.
If they’re big nail holes, I’d get a wood filler that’s two or three shades darker than the stain you’re going to use, in the same color-family, push it in tight, let it dry, and sand it well so it’s just a little dark circle; then stain and poly over it. The nail holes might just be what makes your 1928 home look like it has almost 100 years of memories walking up and down those stairs!
I applied two coats of stain plus a final coat of poly to get this table top finished. Minwax Polycrylic Protective Finish is recommended over light-colored wood surfaces. Brush PolyShades finish onto a small hidden area to make sure the color you selected appears as you want it to on your actual wood surface. I would not put an oil based polyurethane over latex paint or oil based paint for that matter. A sanding sponge instead of a sanding block or just sandpaper in-hand, in my experience, is a better tool to use here. It is a complete PITA but I’m looking for a finish where additional scratches can just be sanded, touched up with a stain pen and finished.
But until recently I had never seen Penetrol recommended for use in polyurethane, which is usually applied indoors in more ambient working conditions and brushes easily without drag. I just used the Polyshades Classic Oak (gloss) on about 250 linear feet of quarter round molding, new, red oak, which is to serve as the base molding for our new hardwood floors.
It is ideal for use on light wood surfaces like ash, maple, birch because it has no tint. Stir High-Build Polyurethane before use to eliminate settling on the bottom of the can. Gel stain, for example, is most often suited for creating a wood grain appearance on fiberglass doors. Use a sandpaper grit that removes the flaws efficiently without creating deeper scratches than necessary. I don’t know when the myth started, but it is so well established that it’s even highlighted in bold letters on the cans of common brands such as Minwax and Olympic polyurethane.
Also be aware that with every coat you apply the grain dissapears and the end result looks like paint. If desired, apply stain, such as Minwax® Wood Finish or Minwax® Gel Stain to bare wood following all label directions. Minwax® offers a variety of easy-to-use products to help clean and repair wood that is chipped, cracked, scratched, even decayed, to its original beauty.
As long as it is fully cured, I think it’ safe to LAY food on it or use it on a dining table……..but I would likely not use it on a cutting board where chunks of the finish could end up imbedded in the food. The creation of bubbles is more a function of the motion and speed of the brush than any other factor. In my dining room, I had GREAT luck with just minwax stain, followed by Zar waterbased sealer (seals oak so it doesn’t turn black with waterbased finish), and then Zar water based satin poly.
Use the edger to get where the drum sander can’t go and to feather out gouge marks the drum sander creates entering and exiting the work. Use dye, sealer, woodgrain filler and a clear topcoat as demonstrated above for the deep red” finish. Slight ambering may be experienced when Polyurethane is applied over light-coloured wood surfaces. Also, with wipe-on poly you can apply another coat without sanding in about 1-2 hours (dry to touch). Within five minutes wipe off the excess stain and let the doors sit for a few hours. The sand sealer is a coat that will raise the hairs on the wood and then dry very fast.
After staining mahogany (and after it dries!), protect it with your preferred top coat like varnish, shellac, lacquer or polyurethane. I used the pecan color and used a hplv gun to spray on one coat taking care not to get any runs or drips, looked great one easy step and was the exact color i wanted. All finishes scratch so you’ll need to apply an additional coat every so often (once in 3 yrs. Option #3 is to apply several thin coats of shellac to the surface before finishing to try and seal in the silicone.
If you’re staining oak you won’t need it. You can also use plain water instead of wood conditioner. Even if I do remove too much color, I apply another coat of dye, and sand down – ideally this last sanding brings the color tone down to where I want it. Finally, you can use an oil finish rather than a built up finish, wiping off any excess after it has soaked in for a few minutes. By wiping the stain on and wiping it off, you achieve very fine, transparent coats.
It is also more likely to match existing wood if you are only refinishing portions of your home. Wood conditioner is very helpful on woods like pine or fir that sometimes take stain unevenly. It can be affected by heat (white rings will appear under a hot bowl or mug) or chemicals, so a kitchen table might not be the best place to use it. Fine furniture items can be greatly enhanced with shellac. The disservice caused by attributing bubbles to shaking rather than to brushing is that users become frustrated and lose confidence when they follow directions and still don’t avoid the problem.
I expect that people who are already set up with a spray booth, have high quality spray equipment and a knowledge of consistency, temperatures etc. We use that prior to stain almost all the time to encourage the wood to take the stain in fewer coats. The first polyurethane coat goes on Saturday morning, the second after dinner Saturday night. My husband advised me to finish with clear coat of polyurethane in the form of a spray. The Minwax website says to sand off all of the wax before applying poly, but am wondering if I really need to do so, or can just apply the wipe on poly over the wax.
I believe the preparation process including proper sanding (removal of the factory finish requires 200 or 220 grit sandpaper), removal of dust grains and WOOD conditioner (VERY IMPORTANT) to be key in staining and sealing the countertops. I just painted a bedside table for my daughter’s room using a glossy spray paint. Use your BEST natural hair brush and lay a nice, even coat of a piece of raw oak or ash.
You emailed me some advice last year on refinishing our 1905 foursquare wood work and we followed it, I meant to get back with you and say we were successful and thank you!!! The only applications I have had difficulty with because of the yellowing effects were when I attempted to use a clear coat over white or near-white finishes. With all the different brands and various opinionsÂ on wax and poly, it can be confusing on which topcoat to use on painted furniture.Â To keep things simple, I use wax on chalk painted and milk painted pieces (unless they are high traffic items!)Â and poly products on everything else!