A dowel was mounted with the base screws to use to make flutes around a profile to adjusted depth, set the bit out the depth you want to cut. The next step is to set the adjustable router stops that will limit the length of travel the router can move, in other words, I’m now going to set the length of the mortise. The main beam is attached to these pivots with wing nuts and washers, but don’t over tighten the nuts or it will not swing easily, Pic 14. The action of the finished jig is remarkably smooth. I use any number of the 4 adjustable material stops on the side panel of the jig to lock the leg’s position in place so I have a repeatable set up. I then tighten the leg to the jig using the two clamps, in this position. I usually make guide strips from solid wood 1 1/2-inches wide and ¾-inch thick.
The beauty of this jig is that you simply make a first pass with the 3/4″ pattern bit to make the shallow dado. Router Boss’ joint variations and precise cuts give you more control than any router jig on the market. With that said, I like them and use them but they are not always my first choice for router mortising. Right Materials: The main factor that will determine what materials to use will be the purpose of the jig. It should be positioned such that the wood worker’s hands are kept away from harm.
Once the bearing are tight I test that the router’s base has no movement from side to side and that it is captured on the top of the jig and will ride smoothly against the aluminum rails. Screw the circular end of the jig into the router’s base, aligning the circles on the sub-base with the holes drilled in the jig. A material such as Baltic-birch is useful when the wood worker wants a material that has no gaps of void on the edges. But, when routing the opposite edge, the one farthest away, you’d advance the router from right to left.
Normally the jig is clamped above or to the left of the dado so the bit rotation pulls the router against the guide strip, not away from it. I have made the mistake of trying to route dados with my guide on the wrong side with predictable results. The distance from the clamp’s inner edge of its beam to the centre of its screw is 4″. The clamp has enough reach, that when tightened in position against the work piece and the jig, the clamp will ride just under the top of the jig. Now line up the beam with the major axis and position the router bit so that it is on the marked diameter.
You may have wondered in the picture above what that pointy thing directing your attention to the layout lines is…it’s a $5 item known as a Center Finding Pin” and when it comes to accurately aligning the router for mortising, it’s devastating accurate…I have several. If you’re wondering about hogging out the waste with a straight bit prior to cutting with a dovetail bit, I seldom, if ever, take the time to work this way.
I place the router on the jig and make depth adjustments that way to insure the final depth of the dado is correct. Remember cutting the slots in the plywood adjustable stops and cutting the window in the top with the router and its straight edge guide….similar procedure here. For the router platform I used a piece of 6mm MDF screwed onto the router base with two countersunk bolts. For example, with an appropriate jig it can be used for recessing door hinges and recessing lock faceplates.
The baseplate (sole plate) is generally circular (though this, too, varies by individual models) and may be used in conjunction with a fence attached to the base, which then braces the router against the edge of the work, or via a straight-edge clamped across the work to obtain a straight cut. I use the router’s factory base plates as a template and trace the location of the mounting holes and router bit holes onto the green painter’s tape so the markings are easily seen for the next step. Setup the mortise jig and make multiple mortises exactly the same size and depth.
Any jig that I have used repeatedly with a flush trim bit eventually starts to show wear, either from a stopped bearing, accidental contact from angling the router, or blades that aren’t quite perfectly aligned with the bearing. Many drill press tables are too small for woodworking because they were designed for metalworking. Craftsman Router and Router Table Combo:The Craftsman router and router table combo gives you what you need to get started on setting up a woodworking shop.
I’ll bet you have the material to create a boatload of simple, useful jigs that, when combined with your router, will increase your woodworking abilities. The two continuous flutes ground around the body of the up spiral bit produce a clean, vibration free cut. Center the wood block against the rods and mark the location where their ends should penetrate the block at 90 degrees.
Using the Jig and Fixture: The first thing you need to do is secure the stock in the fixture. This jig is best when used for cutting dados for shelves or for creating a dovetailed socket for drawer dividers. Mounting your router upside down in a router table greatly expands the tool’s capabilities, making routing easier and safer. Referring to the drawings, I cut the plywood parts to size and laid out the holes to be drilled in the side panel of the jig.
However, once you’ve constructed the router jig shown, you’ll have a new tool ready to guide your router around an axis, cutting the exact radius that you locked into the jig. The routing techniques shown in this article are a combination of the correct router bits along with dirt-simple jigs made from leftover pieces from other projects, such as scraps and plywood. The 1/8″ lip is there to act as a material stop; I’ve built this jig without this lip and soon realized the benefit to having it there. Without the right router jig, the wood worker cannot accomplish their project as expected.