The Mystery No 7 Stanley Plane.

Get A FREE 3 Month Subscription to Rob Cosmans Interactive Online Hand & Power Tool Workshops! This is as good a place as any to mention that Stanley loved to use non-standard threads, and it’s nowhere more apparant than the hardware used to attach the wood to the main casting. Often called the workhorse of planes, the block plane is used for truing up end grain on boards ends, creating chamfers on edges, trimming tenons, etc. An infill plane has a body of metal filled with very dense and hard wood on which the blade rests and the handles are formed. The shoulder plane , is characterized by a cutter that is flush with the edges of the plane, allowing trimming right up to the edge of a workpiece.

It seems as if the Stanley employees, given the task of making #2’s, were off in their happy, little #2-land, oblivious to the changes made to the plane’s larger brothers. It would be a simple decision for me. Hands down the LN #8. I own a Stanley #7 and a bunch of LV planes but I reach for my LN #8 very often. So if you own a Stanley No. 71 router plane and your iron keeps coming loose, just flip the collar over! The Stanley irons do crack due to their thinness, but it is not a common occurrence.

The begining of the end for Stanley bench planes, as we prepare for the Dawning of the Age of Norm, and Ellie Mae Clampett’s yummy bisquits. The thing to remember is that a plane doesn’t necessarily need to be entirely fl at. The crucial registration points are the front and rear of the sole, and just in front and behind the mouth; if these are in the same plane and have no twist, you can discount any slight hollows. The blade is A-2 cryogenically treated Tool Steel, hardened to Rockwell 60-62 and double tempered.

I concur with what Paul said, I do own a #7 in both a Stanley Bailey and a Keen Kutter K series ( this plane is similar to the Bedrock round side ). Before I had these I used my #6 and still use my #6 more than my #7, I do not own a #8 but own a 28″ wooden Jointer plane which is very nice. If you can afford multiple dedicated planes, then I recommend that you actually purchase the dedicated planes over a combination plane (especially a plow plane, rabbet plane, & matched planes/tongue & groove plane). This damage is clearly visible by flipping the plane over and looking at the sole.

As the plane, which was headed to Paris from London, departed on a cold, foggy day and no other apparent conclusions could be drawn, the official report of the missing plane ruled that it must have crashed into the English Channel as a result of iced-over wings or engine complications. However it wasn’t versatile enough for cutting larger rabbets & tenon shoulders, so I sold it and purchased the Lie-Nielsen No. 73 Large Shoulder Plane , which has given given me better surface coverage on tenons and wider cuts when making moldings.

Because of suspected communication complications, a rescue party was not able to begin its search until seven and a half hours later, by which time any remnants of the plane could have begun their descent to the ocean floor. The only work I did to the blade was to sharpen it with a high grit wet and dry and polish using a leather strop. The frog can also be adjusted to widen or narrow the mouth of the plane without the need to remove the irons.

This flaw lessens the value of a plane to a collector, but does nothing to hinder the plane’s use provided the chips are not severe enough to prevent sufficient clamping pressure on the iron. Below you’ll see a rabbet plane with a straight iron (on top) and a rabbet plane with a skewed iron (on bottom). So to keep the plane at a warmer temperature, it flew extremely low at 2,000 feet, thus eliminating virtually any sort of wiggle room if a problem should arise. Transferring the weight through the plane as the cut starts and finishes should help achieve consistent results.

The fillister plane , similar to a rabbet plane, with a fence that registers on the board’s edge to cut rabbets with an accurate width. Even if your irons meet without a glimmer of light, the plane can still struggle to cut well if the iron and frog aren’t working together. The blade took a bit of work to get to a mirror polish and that’s my only significant complaint. In this particular incident, many have seized on the date and flight’s relation to the number 7 (every conspirators’ favorite number). If you’re collecting this stuff, make sure it’s aluminum and not some iron plane in aluminum paint clothing – if the weight of the thing doesn’t clue you in, a magnet will.

Historical texts seem to support this moniker as well, as references to Jack planes extend back to at least 1703 ( Moxon ). Regardless, its length puts it in the Fore plane category, and its versatility assures it a place on the workbench. But, for roughly the cost of the Lie Nielson #7, you can get the Lee Valley bevel up jointer, the jointing fence attachment, two extra blades with 38 and 50-degree bevels, and the toothed blade.

It is an excellent balance of sole length and cutter width to be useful for typical furniture parts. It’s also important to make sure that the parts of the plane are not lying on top of one another in the solution. All UK Mainland orders are Delivered Free of Charge except for some Offshore and Highland locations. Model No. 90, below, is similar in having an adjustable mouth, fine depth adjustment and removeable front, for use as a chisel plane. Thus, a normal #4 tote cannot fit on this plane without first enlarging the hole.

Some planes, such as the Stanley Bedrock line and the bench planes made by Lie-Nielsen and WoodRiver/ Woodcraft have a screw mechanism that allows the frog to be adjusted without removing the blade. These planes are faithful to the Bailey pattern and as far as I know the only modern-day maker that has invented anything in cast metal plane making is of course Veritas of Canada. The planes made during the period (1907?) 1909-1942 have all the improvements and none of the degradations used in the making of Stanley hand planes. With it’s weight – once you get the plane moving nothing much deflects it making it comfortable to use.

As you can see from the picture, the back of the blade was really quite concave, and it needed a lot of work to get the first few millimetres of the blade completely flat. Buying a new iron is probably the easiest option, then, and while quality steel irons from the likes of Hock, Clifton and Lie Nielsen may cost almost as much as your plane itself, the price is usually justified by the increased performance of the tool. But the no. 5 is, in my opinion, the most versatile of the group and the plane I use most often. The real issue in any plane buying decision is what do you plan to use the plane for.