A rattling rarified beech definitely 1800c with axerophthol real too Mitre plane for sale soon sport which is A beech mouth closer instead of boxwood. In use, I found that the handle on the Veritas Shooting Plane gives it a much more controllable push through the cut. The two planes in the picture are a late 18th century mitre plane by Gabriel and a 1920’s vintage steel soled cast Norris shoulder plane. The plane has a very thick sole, 1/4″ in fact, and the escapement has the combined rectangle and circle which was used by Brandt, Thorested, and the Erlandsens. Just a heads up… I was looking for a Lie Nielsen #9 mitre plane, that has been discontinued.
This L. Brandt mitre plane was sold by A. J. Wilkinson of Boston, Massachusetts, a large hardware concern, which was established in 1842. Either plane was old inventory, with a later stamp, or the rounded step was not discontinued entirely. The Number 9 Iron Miter was originally introduced by Stanley and was repopularized and made better than ever by Lie-Nielsen Toolworks.
I have heard that in some cases that as the bronze bodied planes age, they will leave some coloration on wood if the plane is not used regularly. On average, these English planes have smaller throats than either the Stanley No. 9 or the New York piano planes when adjusted to their narrowest aperture. When I got the LV block I didn’t intend to use it as a shooter, but it works surprisingly well and is much more comfortable to grip on it’s side then a bailey/bedrock style plane.
But even though I needed a miter plane, and I actually had an obviously great one in my hands, I defeated temptation. On the plane in the middle, just to the right of the fine adjustment screw is the end of an alignment rod which sits inside a half round groove on the top of the sole, and on the bottom front of the main casting. I got a LN #9 miter plane that works nicely, but I like my LN #62 (low angle jack) better.
I haven’t done a complete sharpening on the blade but, like the Lie-Nielsen Iron Miter, I like having a square blade to sharpen versus a skewed blade. It has a handle that can be swapped from side to side depending on using the plane left or right handed. The total effect is immediately felt by master craftsmen who choose to use Lie Nielsen’s tools when making their own works. Once again, the Lie-Nielson plane left a surface that was smooth and shiny, and easily passed this test. I would not want Lie-Nielsen Toolworks to take any of the classic, short-sighted, spreadsheet-driven moves to reduce the cost of their tools.
Two shoulder planes (named for planing the end grain on the shoulders, surrounding tenons), 1-1/4” width, and 1” width, by Joseph Popping , N.Y. Popping (b 1842 in Prussia) only marked the iron, never the plane body. A Boston connection indicates that from the beginning of the New York plane makers, Boston piano factory workers were served as well as the New York based workers. Most planes that are sold today require some flattening and sharpening before they can be effectively used, so kudos to Lie-Nielsen for addressing this prior to shipping.
Wayne’s planes are inspired by the gorgeous work of the past, but he doesn’t copy old designs, and he never seems to make the same plane twice. Infilled with Holtey Greco-Roman Handplanes Details and photographs of the A11 Mitre Infill plane made by Karl Holtey. In the photo below, the rosewood plane (l.), with a steel sole and a double iron was user made. I’m betting that you’ll find deficiencies in the design of your shooting board, grip, technique, or all three, and fixing any one of these will be much cheaper than buying a new plane. I own the Veritas bevel-up, low angle smoother and jack and have used the Lie-Nielsen bevel up planes.
Some years ago an ebony & ivory version of a centre-wheel plow plane made by The Sandusky Tool Company in 1876, sold at auction for $114,400. I think it is a stunning plane and loved it for the sheer sight of it. I was fortunate enough to borrow one of these planes (they are quite rare and valuable) to take measurements and draw it up. An angle of this kind is only suitable for end grain work and is often referred to by tradesmen as a butcher’s block plane. That limits the practical high cutting angle of a 12 degree bevel up plane to about 70 degrees.
The W. Butcher 2-inch iron was pretty much the widest offered in the largest N.Y. mitres, and Thorested was known for using W. Butcher irons among others. For example, my favorite infill is short (5-5/8” long x 1-7/8” wide), coffin-shaped, has a high-pitched iron (60°) with no chipbreaker or blade adjuster. You might have to get in line behind me. My conversation with Wayne reminded me that I was going to get him to build me a Roman-style plane to test a few theories I have about early Western woodworking. I am going to sell the Lie-Nielsen Iron Miter plane soon as the Veritas Shooting Plane fits my needs better.
No more cuts, multiple comfortable options to hold the plane and from other information, a well built shooting board + my sharp blades giving me hair thin shavings with a very satisfying SHICK sounds while cutting. At his factory, Mr. Lie-Nielsen spends much of his day putting his fingers together in the air to show a measurement to an employee, a reminder that he has made his tools himself, by hand, from scratch. Erlandsen was borrowing directly from George Thorested’s adjustable iron rabbet and mitre planes here, so this plane probably dates from the 1860s. In the mid 1840s, Brandt pioneered the use of lever cap for the N.Y. mitre plane.
I used a nice piece of quarter sawn white Oak harvested and milled close to my home back in Cape Breton and to add even more protection/armour I laminated a piece of Jatoba to the sole creating a versatile shooting/Jack plane. I picked curly maple, which provides a great challenge and serves as a good litmus test for a hand plane. At the time of this post, I had used this plane for a total of 1/2 an hour… but there were a few things that immediately stood out.
Slightly off topic, but you mention higher cutting angle planes being harder to use, so it’s slightly on topic as well :). I think one important reason that many feel a high angle (55 to 60 degree) plane is so hard to push (regardless if bevel up or down) has to do with the blade width. To finally know and truly feel what a dedicated Shooting plane is like was really something special.
Each board has two angled fences for the opposing miter cuts, formed with a 1:7 angle on one side to wedge into large dadoes cut into the surface. This applied specifically to examples of rabbets where the blade was not resting on—and supported by—the top of the rear wall of the plane. The marketing argument for the adjustable mouth was and is that with an adjustable mouth the woodworker can set the mouth of their plane to whatever opening they find suitable for the wood at hand.
Based on the Stanley No. 102, this small plane fits perfectly in the hand, slips easily into the pocket, and is destined to become the most useful tool in your workshop. UPDATE – here’s a shot of the bottom of my miter jack, showing the modifications I’ve made to the traditional mounting block. Perhaps I should mention here that the blade that I had in this mitre plane was the first batch of my A2 blades, I was probably the first to use A2 blades commercially in a hand plane. I also have Lie-Nielsen saws, chisels, screw drivers, spoke shaves, the apron, hat, T-shirts, and just about every DVD they have ever made.
From the beginning when I first started making infill planes my research brought me across various planes of all kinds which I don’t normally have that much interest in. One non infill plane that did catch my attention was the Stanley 164. It wasn’t until a few years later, whilst exhibiting at Munich Expo 1998 and demonstrating my planes I found that I preferred my No 11 mitre plane which has a 22 ½ degree bed. From a practical application standpoint, what’s the difference between this plane and the Veritas shooting plane.
Napoleon Erlandsen was the first of the New York planemakers to introduce a rabbet plane where the body was wholly cast in one piece. I think shooting boards are in pretty widespread use by handtool woodworkers, but I’m not sure the miter jack is nearly as common — which I think is a shame. Middle plane is a Moseley and Sons, London, c. 1820-1840, with the same dimensions as the the early mitre, and a 2″ cutter (Ibbotson) as well. I think the Veritas Shooting Plane has the advatage over the Lie-Nielsen No. 51 Shooting Board Plane for 2 reasons. Where the use of bronze would result in excessive weight in a tool, ductile iron is used instead.
Tom Lie-Nielsen set out to attract the passionate tool enthusiast by building tools locally with only the finest grade materials, and hand crafting each tool with a small number of artisans, with a level of detail that would match the detail within the projects that his discerning customers would make with the tools. The only time I have ever seen stripped out screws and things is when it was on a plane were the frog was incorrectly set and someone probably tried to fix it. Instead I got a Lee Valley low angle smoother which I use as a dedicated miter plane.