This winter my older girls decided that they wanted to raise chickens for real. The use of proper foundations or pole construction will make the house windproof. Instead, remove the coop floor and inside facing, nesting and storage bump-out and run fencing. The bump out makes it easy to store chicken feed and allows eggs to be collected without entering the coop. Let us show you how to level your site, frame your coop, build and attach doors, add wire for the chicken run and more.
As a start, regarding the size of your coop, the general number seems to be 3 feet to every chicken. When you’re attaching your trim on, make sure you are flush and level on the corners and edges. First and foremost, keep your coop in a partially shaded, dry spot – never leave it in direct sunlight. However, if I ever move from here, I want to move to a place that ALREADY HAS A COOP in place!
You will need to first determine the type of foundation you will put the coop on. Probably the easiest and simplest foundation is pier blocks with treated 4x4s on top. You’ll then have an accurate account of what it will cost you to build this coop. Build the poultry house in such a place where all the poultry birds are free from all types of wild animals and other predators. Generally, this area is open to the environment except for some sort of protection such as chicken wire.
I scoop it out daily with a cat litter scooper and there is absolutely no smell in my coop. There are definitely cheaper methods to build your chicken coop so understanding the different things that will influence the cost is the first step to making a smart decision. We’ve since switched to 2 x 4 boards, to make for easier gripping, to reduce hiding spaces for mites and to reduce risk of bumblefoot. This way, themajority of chicken poop will fall out on the ground below (outside the coop) for easy removal (right).
It has created space for rodents, and there really is no advantage to it, unless your coop is heated. We’re in year 6 with a solidly built coop, off the ground with secure, enclosed and covered run under and beside the coop. Provide an access door that’s large enough to accommodate human caretakers, housekeepers and wait staff. Ideally the coop should be on grass (or dirt if grass is not available), as your chooks will love to peck the ground and search for insects. Most of the pre-built chicken coops have to be assembled anyways so it does not make sense to pay the inflated price of their material.
In truth, the main reason the cleanout door exists (along with a few other features) is because I’m an engineer by profession, and engineers tend to over-complicate designs when designing for themselves. The chickens have been living in the coop (and free-ranging when I’m home) for over a week now, and they seem to love it. You know, because I’m a chicken psychic now and totally know what they’re thinking. Just click the add to cart button below and you will be on your way to downloading a really great set of Chicken coop plans for only 5 bucks!
Invaluable because it provides you with in-depth details, step by step instructions as well as color diagrams and clearly defined dimensions so there is little to no chance that you could make a mistake. Once I realized that this diy chicken coop project was going to take longer than a weekend, I decided it would be best to have two phases for the coop building. I had built the coop for my five chicks, using an empty area beside the garden shed. Calculate the size of the chicken house according to the number of chickens you’re housing.
It just makes perfect economic sense to build a chicken coop yourself instead of buying an expensive pre-built chicken coops. They will naturally return to the coop at dusk to roost, or, if you need to get them inside before dusk, you can easily train them to run into the coop by giving them treats. He boxed in one corner of the coop and made the walls portable so we can take them down and put them up when needed.