Pocket Hole Joinery With The Kreg Jig

I love using pocket holes ever since I got my first Kreg kit, the small one. This has it’s upside, which is fabulous portability and an ability to use it in areas that have already been fastened but need a little touch up, say for fixing antiques or pieces in bad repair or for convenient use after the fact, as in where you suddenly realize you actually needed a fastener but failed to do so up front. But don’t just take our word for it. Head over to Pretty Handy Girl where our friend Brittany shows us the value in using a Kreg Jig or stop in over at Chief’s Shop and see what Chris has to say about using the Kreg Shelf Pin Jig !

In May this year, I bought a pocket jig from Amazon, a bunch of screws from screwit and some barrel bolts off aliexpress. Pocket holes are perfect for things where the holes themselves are always and forever concealed. I don’t have the Kreg units, bought my knock off from HF. These tools, which ever one you get are very useful. Overall, however, we found the Kreg right-angle clamp extremely useful in holding right angled joints while driving pocket hole screws. Thanks to its innovative Removable Drill Guide, the Kreg Jig® Master System can be many tools at once.

This is certainly one jig that will barely see a layer of dust form on it and kudos to Kreg for creating a fine product with the K2000 and accessories. If your joints are pulling apart when you assemble, it means that the pilot hole is not large enough and the screw is threading inside of it. Get a bit with a larger pilot or use screws with smaller threads and it will solve that. Sometimes you have no choice but to place a pocket hole where it will stick out like a sore thumb.

Use the box the junior comes in to insert your drill bit, and tighten the collar at the appropriate height for your wood thickness and away you go. In the image below, it’s been set for 3/4” stock since I am using 1×12 boards in this example. With the pocket hole drilled, the second step is to connect your workpieces together with specialized Kreg self-tapping screws. Alternatively you could have just posted a picture of the soap box you made with your pocket hole jig.

Pocket hole joinery is really just a very fancy form of toenailing , which is a construction technique commonly used in building houses and cabinets. Behold…my beloved Junior… When I brought this fine friend home I wasn’t able to get the Kreg Face Clamp so I used what I had on hand which was this Quick-Grip Irwin. There is a clamp that comes with the Kreg Jig (you can use it to clamp on top and bottom of the joint), but I prefer a larger clamp like this IRWIN clamp so that the wood doesn’t get marred. Example: I had a few small scrap 1 1/2 x 1 1/2 board I drilled pocket screws into. The third photo shows one way you can screw wood together with pocket hole screws.

The first thing I built with Kreg pocket screws was a jig for it. With this jig I can easily put together face frames, cabinet walls, and the like. If you’ve ever struggled to get perfectly flush Kreg Joints, failed to get your clamps positioned exactly where you need them, or needed an extra set of hands around the workshop, the Automaxx® Klamp Table is the perfect solution. Also, if you using the mini jig, like me, you have to have the placement of the jig consistent, with regards to the distance from the collar stop to the edge of the board your drilling. Pocket hole joinery is a quick way to join two boards with a self-tapping screw.

Cost: There are a range of Kreg Jig products available and this one is in the ideal cost range from someone who wants to use/create pocket holes with their projects but isn’t looking to spend too much. The K4 pocket hole system is a larger system that has a 3 drill hole guide which is removable from the base unit. I’ve been concerned that too many people are using pocket hole screws to join everything. The angled base like you’d get on a wood screw won’t work with the stepped drill you get with a Kreg kit.

One side has a round flat surface, while the other side has a pin just large enough to fit inside one of the pocket holes. Two extension wings support longer workpieces on either side of the drill guide block, and they feature hinged compartments for storing pocket screws, drill bits and other related supplies. Well, as you might inspect it. She knew what I would be doing with my old K 4. Well needless to say she got that one, everybody laughed and she was happy and so was I. I love this pocket hole jig like all the other products.

Overall, this is an ideal tool to have in any workshop and because there are a range of jigs at various price points, this really should be a tool that every wood enthusiast invests in. The Kreg Jig K4 is durable, effective, and adds another level to woodworking. Between its solid clamp, large clamping recess, Dust-Collection Attachment, Material Support Stop, removable 3-Hole Drill Guide, and seemingly endless adjustability, this jig truly has it all!

Make sure it goes into the hole that corresponds to the length screw that you are going to use. To figure out the exact jig settings to create the pocket holes, you need to measure your board(s) and then adjust both the jig and the drill bit before drilling. The material is set on the pocket jig and clamped into position with the adjustable toggle clamp.

I set my two speed cordless drill on high and with the bit turning, slowly lowered it down the drill guide hole till I could feel it start to cut. But because the pocket holes are apparent even when they’re filled, pocket screws aren’t the best choice for assembling cabinet doors or other projects where both sides of the joint show. During evaluation one of the things that stood out was how easily the Kreg step drill cuts into soft and hard woods.

Using your normal drill you attach the jig to the material, drill using the guide to a max depth, then insert the beaded tenons into the mortises along with a little glue. Our favorite pocket hole jig is the Porter Cable QuickJig for most applications and a Kreg R3 Jr when working with materials too long or wide for the QuickJig. We use cookies to improve your experience on this website and so that ads you see online can be tailored to your online browsing interests. Using the Kreg Face Clamp, we secured the Kreg Jig Jr. into place, then drilled the four evenly spaced pocket holes for the first joint. The Kreg Jig® is the perfect choice for DIY’ers and anyone new to Pocket-Screw Joinery.

Another curious problem was that when I drilled the holes up to the stop collar on the drillbit, the drill cut into the Jig itself, so now there are extra drill holes on the Jig! If I’m following your description correctly, you are using pocket hole joinery for a butt joint, and your drill bit is not exiting the board in which you start drilling and carrying on into the second board. Keep in mind that the price per screw goes down when the quantity you buy goes up. If you have future projects that will require pocket screws, you’ll save some money by buying in bulk. Pocket Hole Screws have a bare section of screw shank for a very specific purpose.

I’ve just watched a few youtube videos including the one from on how to make a table jig to mount it. So I made that today and it makes it even easier. We went that evening and picked up the 2 hole that you clamp to the workpiece (I still have it although the K3 gets more use). The larger systems are better for more professional use, but the price does increase with the abilities of the jig system.

At first, you would think the drill bit would actually grind against the inside of the hardened-steel guide holes, however, it doesn’t due to the manufacturing of the Kreg drill bit itself. I am not sure if this is due to a design issue or poor quality construction but it does detract from ease of use. The Kreg Jig® Master System is the ultimate Pocket-Hole Jig on the market, and a great choice for any woodworking enthusiast. As always, please contact me if you have any questions or need help setting up your jig.

However, when I hold on to the wood with my hand, I managed to curtail the movement so that it still made a relatively neat hole when I drilled. I did build the assembly box/table as shown on some of the Kreg demonstration videos, however, that had limitations too. Our optimism came crushing down when we realized we would be locked into using Kreg’s size #14 pocket hole screws. When subjected to shear load to failure, the pocket hole joint proved to be 56% stronger than the mortise and tenon.

Fix squeaky floors, place the jig on the floor joist pointing up at the floor, drive a screw through the hole in the jig to hold it in position and drill for the screw. Did Kreg get back to me, nup didn’t even bother contacting me such a shame now we see these cheaper knock offs yes have had a play with one and it wasn’t so bad. Pocket hole joinery with the Kreg system a fast and simple 2-step process: drill a hole, and screw the parts together. They have an aggressive bite and a broad flat head that won’t cause the hole to split out. Slide the stop against the end of the board, center it and clamp the jig in place.

The process simply involves using the precision high quality jig made by Kreg for drilling a hole at an angle into one piece of work, and then connecting it into another piece with a screw that is self-tapping and has a non splitting washer type screw head. To keep wood chips and sawdust from accumulating in the guide hole, bring the drill bit partway up several times as you are drilling each hole. If your production needs have outpaced a manual jig, look to the Kreg Foreman Pocket Machine to handle the job. Unfortunately, you are describing the exact reason why many of us use the Castle router system (Castle/Portercable).

One thing is certain, you won’t find a faster or more durable method for joining wood than pocket hole joinery, and you won’t find a better designed system for getting the job done than the Kreg Jig. The first step to using the Kreg Jig is to adjust the drill guide to the thickness of your lumber. The kreg jig has definitely been a game changer for me… sooner or later I’m going to build myself a new desk. The Master System comes with a bench-mounted clamp (Left) that makes drilling virtually any board simple. I have had no problems drilling with a GMC 10.8V LiIon drill, but for harder timber I usually use my 18V drill.

You will never need to release a clamp and reposition a piece that you are working on. Kreg has several sizes of multi-purpose Face Klamps, or you can use any c-clamp, and the Kreg process makes it a snap to fasten your jig to any workbench. The Kreg pocket hole jig allows adjustments from 1/2 inches to 1 1/2 inches thick, which means it works well with 1/2 project boards to 1/2 plywood to 2×4 studs. Building drawer boxes with pocket hole joinery is easy, quick and makes a very strong drawer.