Whether I’m flipping through a magazine or watching the latest home show on TV, I’m always drawn to a house’s trim. For production paint grade trim jobs where new doors and jambs are installed I always go around and make a list of all the head measurements from short point to short point and number each door where the casing will cover. If I would have nailed the casing directly to the wall in this corner, it would have pried the top and side pieces of casing away from each other, opening up a nasty gap. All tutorials and demonstrations are not intended to be professional advice (nor substitute as such), and I make no guarantees as to the procedures and information here. The stool has a groove milled into the bottom so that it will rest on the inside edge of the sill.
There are many different kinds of blinds to choose from-vinyl, PV, aluminum, wood-and the choice you make will have to be based on personal preference. Another problem with ALL replacement windows styles is the size and shape of the window grids or window lights. For my heads I don’t usually backcut them, but if you want to backcut them cut all the head pieces to a length just beyond your long point to longpoint measurement. Notch Window Stool: Center the stool on the window opening, and mark the edges of the drywall return on the stool.
I also cut mitered returns for each side of the apron for a finished look, and fastened those to the ends with nails and wood glue. If you describe this window to a window salesperson, they will probably not understand what you are talking about. From the outside point of the first angle, measure and mark the width of the top piece of casing. This is a window casing absent of a sill at the bottom and a drip cap at the top.
For the second pass on the saw, the fence should be set 1/2″ away from the blade which is now set to make a 1/4″ deep cut. The window sill is extended with a sub-sill angled downward away from the window sash and the casing about 18 degrees. Measure between the outsides of the side casings to determine the apron length. Keep working your way around the window filling cracks, voids, holes, and whatever else gets in your way. Assemble this window header by aligning the center marks and nailing the cap pieces and beaded molding to the head casing.
A piece of casing called an apron is applied under the sill as a finishing touch. Also how did you decide on the sizes of the trimming you use, was it a personal choice or a calculation per window size. Window are the eyes of the house and poor window casing styles are like shaving your eyebrows or not having eyelashes. Using her suggestions, I turned our tiny bedroom window into an extra large, super charming, farmhouse-style window that kicks the pants off our previous window trim. All window lights should be vertically proportioned and, on special occasion, square.
A Brick Mold is a wooden trim used on masonry buildings to cover the gap where the brick masonry meets the window sash. Since you’ve aligned the top of the panel molding with the top of the door casing, it would bother me if it didn’t align with the top of the window casing. Choose from two options: The traditional style has a sill that protrudes slightly into the room at the bottom of the window. Finally caulk the trim where the casing meets the jamb extensions and where the casing meets drywall, use latex acrylic painters caulk such as the kind Dap makes. Getting the proper length for it and correct horn notches can be trick to get the proper reveals to the casing.
In either case, insulation is worth the money while you have the window opened up. Might as well do it right. I’m looking at my crap window frames now and see that they’re ALL WRONG (I didn’t do them, they’re old). I nail trim up with a nail gun while my darling husband holds it level against the edge of the window (romantic, really). Super easy project and you install it the same as wood…I probably spent about $25 a piece for them but soooo worth it!
The sill is cut in one piece which extends from one side of the rough opening to the other. To do the trim I wanted to do I’d have to take the whole sill (or stool, as it’s technically called) off and that intimidated me. But then I saw Cristina’s tutorial last summer and I thought it wouldn’t be as bad as I thought. Hold the stool in place, centered on the window, and mark the inside dimensions of the window jamb on the stool.
Â I was able to case every window in my house with a few sheets of plywood and under $300! If the window is replaced, the weight should be removed and the cavities filled with insulation and sealed. The length should be the shortest part of the cut equal to the measurments taken in step 4. Set the nails and use a block plane to remove additional wood as needed to make the extension jamb flush with the wall surface.
Simply set the blocks at each corner so that they leave the appropriate reveal and then measure the distance between them. Also, this is somewhat related, but in my house I chose to have stained trim for my doors and windows in my formal room and painted in my laundry room, but for the room between the stained and painted rooms (my kitchen), I have stained window trim but painted door trim. It’s difficult to start exactly at the end, so I start a few inches in and scrape to the far end, then I come back and pull the other direction to complete the cut.
If you don’t want to change your casing completely, you can just add a back-band”. I love the look of wood cased windows and had I known how easy and inexpensive it was to faux my own, I would have done this to every window in my last house! Cut Window Apron to Length: Cut the window apron to the same length as the top casing with a 22½° angle bevel cut on each end.