To Make Compound Miter Cuts

I believe the only way to make that 60 degree cut is to rotate the board 90 degrees and set the saw at thirty degrees. I have had a lot of good cutting with the triple chip – that’s the only reason why I am suggesting it. Most guys just jam through the cut and with a triple chip it just seems to do better and last longer. It is so easy to use and a bit more decorative then the plain molding I used to frame my mirror. There are some types of blades, such as metal cutting blades, that can be used on and are recommended for all types of saws: table saw, miter saw and radial arm.

The following two chart shows settings are for all U.S. Standard Crown Molding with 52° and 38° angles, and assume that the angle between the wall is 90°. First we slide the corner of our tape up to our obtuse angle, and then we tape this to our panel to keep it in place. Here’s a trick to make miters look great, but it only works if you’re installing raw trim that will get finished after installation. While many woodworkers set up their saw by positioning a square between the blade and fence, I prefer to check the set up by making a cut. For a 60 degree angle, make yourself a 15 degree wedge, and set the saw at 45 degrees.


Clamping allows you to use one hand to lift the blade guard out of the way until the cut is started. When a piece of trim is cut on a 45-degree bevel like this, the line where the cut meets the finished surface has almost exactly the same profile as the trim. Use a calculator or the interactive circle on this page to find the sin and cos for the angle of the cut you’re making. For those with some construction experience, you can simply miter the panel to create a seamless corner.

Consider this explanation: The outside most (or lower if you prefer) scale shown on most miter saws starts at 0 degrees in the center. Step 3: Once your molding is cut, you need to paint the back of the molding near the top edge so the unfinished back won’t be reflected in the mirror when the molding is installed. If the joint is not reasonably accurate or if it is cut at the wrong angle the ends will not fit together properly.

The first step is to lay the edge course blocks as normal, until the final block is within one block’s width from the mitre point. I always have a small pair of moldings which make a good inside corner, and another small pair for the outside corners, with each piece clearly identified, inside left, or inside right, or outside left, or outside right.

A 45-degree carpenter’s triangle is placed along the top edge of the trim and a miter line is drawn as if the wood were being mitered to fit a traditionally mitered baseboard (not the flat one in place). Set up your saw at precisely 45° (double-check the angle with a triangle), then cut the angle so that your workpiece reaches the desired length on its longest side. To avoid it, make sure the cutoff piece is free to drop or move away from the blade.