Table Saw Fence System Web

I’m sorry to hear that you are having some difficulties finding a fence for your craftsman saw. Having a left blade tilt is ideal for those who are right-handed as well as for anyone who prefers to have easy access to most features – including the rip fence and its distance indicator, bevel wheel and blade arbor nut – which will facilitate ease during use. I can use a board against the saw blade and fence to set the position of the fence and then move the fence with the dial indicator, say exactly some few thousanths of an inch. I was pleasanty suprised at how well the fine adjustment mechanism worked on the fence.

I explained that I was having issues, outlined them specifically, and let him know that I might need to switch back to the old fence system. I probably could/should have sold my saw and purchased a replacement with all the improvements Jet has made in the 10+ years since I purchased mine and only spent a few hundred more than I did on the upgraded fence. Question regarding this fence and installation – I currently have my table saw built into my workbench.

We gave it a 90% for the rip fence adjustment score, which means it is easy to adjust left and right and it stayed in place once it was set. I’m trying to locate a position that doesn’t interfere with the operation of the fence. The cast iron top is quite flat, it’ll run on 220v, and the outfeed table is very nice. And Kent’s caution is valid…when you are doing a wide rip, such as working with sheet goods, the center support of the Incra system goes WAY to the right of the saw, well beyond the extension table. Keeping the table slick lets you concentrate on controlling the wood and feed rate.

I’m returning the saw this weekend and will be spending more time this go around looking for a replacement. When all of the alignments are complete, there remains one step that will make the saw easier – and safer – to use. Using a framing square (left) to align the miter gauge fence to the blade is only accurate if the blade is perfectly parallel to the miter slot.

However, if I spend $300-$350 for a good fence and it help me be a better woodworker, it’s probably a small price to pay considering I would likely get 50%-60% of my investment back if I sell it on EBay when I replace my saw in the future for a saw with a good fence to start with. On most saws, there are two mounting points, one off the back of the saw and the second near the back of the blade in the throat opening. I called Delta customer service and they are sending me a new fence which should arrive tomorrow after waiting a week.

I also wanted to re-make a few of my table saw jigs but with the current ones working OK I never really pushed to do so. Here recently I’ve also come up with a few neat router table ideas that I would like to expiriment with. After fighting with the fence on my old Craftsman I decided to get an Incra for the accuracy. It will be replaced by a Unisaw that I’ rebuilding It will have a VerySuperCool Table Saw Fence System.

With the addition of a narrow kirf, high TPI, teflon coated carbide blade and a zero tolerance saw insert, I get at least a half horsepower cutting speed improvement and panel cut quality I only dreamed of before the Biesemeyer. I was pleasantly surprised at how well the fine adjustment mechanism on this fence worked. I ended up buying replacement bolts for these holes and counter sinking them so that the rails fit flush against the table. Should anything happen to your table saw within the first year, it is covered by warranty.

In my case I did not have to drill any hole in the table saw except the 2 holes for the real hold down. I’d suggest looking at replacement fence systems, but a good one would probably be more than the $100 saw, so not a wise investment. Wayne, if you are having problems with the front end of the fence moving, that should be the easiest thing in the world to fix on the Incra fence. Under the name plate on the clamp end of the fence are 4 holes with allen bolts below.

Just a little work with a dial indicator and I have a little less than +/- about002″ total movement from square at the out feed end of the fence as the handle is clamped down with satisfying clamping force. The only remaining thing to do was to remove the sticky measure tape on the guide tube and move it over to the zero point. It seems to me if you already have a decent fence on the TS and you do not have a planer, then you need a planer a lot more than fancy dandy fence. Yes, but marginally so. There are 4 knobs to loosen, 2 front and 2 rear, that are loosened and the entire fence lifts off the table.

I should note that I was in the local Woodcraft store the other day, discus sing this with one of the guys there and another customer overheard me. Tha t customer mentioned that he had just cut the rail on his fence for the sam e reason, but it wasn’t the Delta fence or a Craftsman saw. Keeping the table waxed with a good non-silicone product makes the wood slide easily and consistently as it is pushed through the blade.

Just adjust your feed rate and it can handle ‘ll probably be pleasantly surprised with this saw. There are four large allen head screws that attach the fence to the truck, the piece that actually slides on the rail. I have also been able to extend the width of my table saw to even trim narrow doors. All these reviews claimed that the fence bolted right up to the hole pattern already on the saw. If the blade, fence and miter gauge are precisely aligned to the miter slots, they can work accurately and safely. I’ve seen where folks have just removed and remounted the block further up the fence to accommodate a shorter table.

When I added the Incra rails to the saw (so I could fully utilize the Ultra Jig I was fortunate enough to win in the FreeStuff drawing), I also moved my router table insert from the right-hand side to the left. I guess not having owned one of that specific vintage Craftsman saws, I can’t speak to how bad the stock fence is. Catching an alignment error before the saw tells you about it with ruined wood or a kickback is a very good – and painless plan. As suggested in the instructions I added a melamine extension to the right of the table saw table.

There’s only a couple of things that can cause the fence to be out of square with the table top, after all. At first I was a little gun shy and was going to take the fence back, but decided to go ahead and give it a go. All I can say is that it has breathed new life into this table saw, and I couldn’t be any happier. Some advocate aligning the splitter to the fence side of the blade but centering it on the blades width is how most manufacturers specify and it works effectively in that position. With a 2.5-inch dust exhaust port, you can easily connect this saw to your wet or dry shop vacuum for easy cleanup.

The new owner of my Porter-Cable got a sweet table saw station with a bunch of already made jigs and I got a smaller, much easier to move around and store away table saw with the potential of more upcoming fun shop projects. The Craftsman 21807 comes with a 36 tooth carbide tipped 10 inch blade with a standard 5/8″ arbor meaning you won’t have any trouble finding a decent after market blade.

The blade was parallel with miter slot within001 -002″, the fence was within001″, The blade angle at 0 degree was off by about1 degree and the 45 was off about the same. I bought this fence system to replace the inaccurate and unreliable fence on my 35 yr. old Craftsman saw. I am now designing a Homemade” table saw and was looking for a good straight fence.