Transparent or semi transparent exterior wood coatings are a very tricky business. Right now I’m looking at some raised grain after staining, and some uneveness..wondering if I can combine some steel wool work to remove just some uneveness and more stain around the edge…also, that deep glow from lacquer coating….most guys aren’t set up at home for spraying, but tung oil layers aftere a single linseed coating have a great look, but don’t expect the magic till after the 6th or 7th coating….
Sorry kinda late but when ever your staining before you even start staining taking in that you have also done all the normal wood prep, its always best to wet your wood with water no matter what type off base of stain your using, allow water to dry, this is also a way to check your wood for imperfections such as scratches, glue, or any piece that will not accept stain.
It does not tend to turn blotchy, but like all woods it will stain more evenly after an application of Minwax® Pre-Stain Wood Conditioner or Minwax®Water-Based Pre-Stain Wood Conditioner To insure that any stain penetrates and fills oak’s deep pores, apply a liberal amount of stain to the wood, then work it into the pores using a cloth in a swirling motion.
Thanks, well your main problem is that the minwax stain has about 5% or so poly in it, so waiting to long allows the poly to become hard and creates a barrier that acts like a clear poly would, thus not allowing easy penetration, the first two were close enough that it didn’t have time to reach that stage and your begginig samples being done in 6 hours even more so.
My personal preference, though it limits the architectural coloration possibilities, is ground-contact rated copper compound treated wood (NOT the Wolmanized brown product), which comes green initially but can be retreated with either green or brown solution or can be liquid colorized darker (though not easily to a specific tone) using either of those as a base.
If you wanted a darker shade there are two things you can do 1. Lower the grit on your sandpaper from p220 to p180 2. fire hazard warning dispose of rags in a bucket of water Add 2 tablespoons of Boiled Linseed Oil to each quart of stain. I would sand and wipe, between coats, if more depth is needed, but do not use water between coats as it may prevent the stain from drying Good luck! When I applied the stain and waited about 5 mins, the chair looked barely darker.
This dye works like a pre-stain to help bring the solid wood and plywood closer to the same color family. In either case if the tackiness doesn’t go away, wipe the wood down with mineral spirits or naphtha to remove most of the stain, let it dry thoroughly, then try again using a fresh can of stain. After the water-repellent preservative or water repellent has dried, the bare wood must be primed.
These are (1) lumber, (2) plywood, and (3) reconstituted wood products, such as hard board and particleboard. This can be a pain in the butt when refinishing since the stain tends to absorb deeply. It leaves the pores open more for better penetration of the stain color,” Genovese says. Everything went well until it dried and I noticed it not holding the stain the way it was advertised. I got some shoe cream from the shoe repair guy, they stocked the Woly brand that came in lots of different colours so I was able to choose the one closest to my stain colour.
When it is, always use an oil-based stain, such as Minwax® Wood Finish or Minwax® Gel Stain, to ensure compatibility with the natural oils in these woods. The second consideration in choosing a stain is the job you want it to do. The most commonly used furniture stains are based on pigments mixed in oil or turpentine, or on aniline dyes mixed in turpentine, water, alcohol, or a volatile spirit. Stain which did not penetrate will form an unsightly surface film and glossy spots. All the different wood fillers I use in my floor work almost never stain the same as the wood itself.