So many ways to build a rabbit cage exist, that your toughest challenge will not be the actual building itself, but sifting through the internet and the hundred other methods and styles of cages being built to choose from. Take your long dowel and run it through under the very front square attaching the shelf to the cage, right under the shelf itself. Drive two 12d nails through the outside face of a side piece into the end of the back piece to make the corner. When it is time to put things inside your cage, it is important to understand that you may be rearranging the cage to your rabbit’s liking.
The standards for rabbit production, described at the beginning of this chapter, are, of course, different, but for the rest the rabbit breeder can make convenient use of descriptions of buildings designed for chickens. Roofing is required for outdoor rabbit hutch but if you intend on keeping your hutch inside another shelter such as an empty garage then roofing will be just optional. Having lots of access to grass is great but the occasional veggie treat can cause a rabbit to binky in happiness.
If the cage is resting on brackets instead of straight on the wood, it will protect the wood from chewing, and prevent droppings from building up on the 2×4’s. There are many more do-dads you can add to a rabbit cage, but I think that covers the most important ones. The options for cages are varied but require a few basics for the well being of your rabbit.
These shutters also make it possible to ventilate the interior during the daytime; they can be opened to suit the wind direction and regulated to respect the air-flow standards mentioned at the start of this chapter. Use a smaller size for the floor, to protect rabbit feet from getting stuck and resulting in broken or dislocated feet and legs. I have a 2 x4 cage for my two boars, and that is the size shown in the demonstration.
Nail them to the legs approximately 24 inches from the bottom to ensure that the floor of the cage is raised off of the ground. Remember though that you will have to buy two or even three rolls of wire: one of 1×2” mesh for the cage sides and one of tighter mesh for the cage floor. This is the same square footage as the recommended minimum run size of 8ft x 4ft, but gives the rabbits 36ft length of running area, and places to jump and dig. Add 2 feet (K) to the underside of the hutch to provide ventilation and stop the hutch from rotting early when on damp ground.
One of the major rabbit diseases in traditional small-scale production using straw litter is coccidiosis. As the hutch and run are permanently sited there are paving stones around the outside to prevent the rabbits from digging out, and any predators from digging in, but the middle section is turf so that they have a soft surface. The mesh for the top and sides of the cage should be 1”x2” or 1”x1”, but the floor wire should be approximately ½”x1” so that it can support the rabbit’s feet.
They could also be used for fattening, but at a higher investment cost per cage. Water and rabbit urine will then leave you with a rusted cage in much less time than Galvanized After Welding wire mesh. However, before you choose to build a rabbit cage, shop around the local rabbit suppliers to see their prices. If you want to grow rabbits, you need to build a basic hutch as to protect them from bad weather.