DEAR CONNIE: For years I have also told people to use deck sealers that had color pigments in them to retard the graying process. Being a chemist and a physicist, I was able to approach the problem of wood rotting and paint failing scientifically, which no one else in this or any related business ever did; there were and are many people making epoxy products, but none of them had a comparable background and were able to approach the problem by identifying the root causes of wood failure and product failure.
Because 1) the old, but still currently marketed primer formulations have not kept up with the changes effected by governmental legislation which forced topcoat manufacturers to remove key ingredients because of environmental issues, 2) no primer, old or new, was ever able to fully impregnate the porosity of old, weathered wood and new, sound wood, and 3) the quality of lumber being sold today is not the same as it was when the original primers were formulated.
The resin system is formulated primarily with resins derived from wood and therefore the resin system is compatible with the chemistry of wood in a way that no other resin system is. The resin system is very hydrophobic to inhibit liquid water accumulation in impregnated regions while allowing (via the designed porosity remaining in the wood) the diffusion of water vapor through the impregnated region as well as the natural porosity of the wood.
When repairing wood with mild dry rot, the CPES will migrate along the abnormal porosity which dry rot fungus creates within the wood, as long as it continues to be fed in. Impregnation of wood with CPES changes the cellulose of the wood (which fungi and bacteria find tasty and easily digestible) into epoxy impregnated cellulose which resists further attack from fungi and bacteria while strengthening the wood, accomplishing restoration.
The particular kind of resins that must be used in Smith’s Clear Penetrating Epoxy Sealer in order to obtain all its usual performance features, which have made the product famous, do not cure well below about 50° F and essentially stop curing by 40° F. This is a normal characteristic of these products, and has been well known to chemists for half a century.
I use a good exterior polyurethane, more durable, thin the first couple of coats by 30% with mineral spirits, you will have less bubbles in the finish and probably won’t have to sand between coats, after the first two coats thin by about 20% and apply several more coats, I put five coats on my hardwood floors, you can also buy the same sealer they use on basketball courts which is really durable….Ace Hardware use to carry the sealer used on basketball courts.
When repairing wood that has mild dry rot, the CPES will migrate along the abnormal porosity which dry rot fungus creates within the wood, as long as it continues to be fed in. Impregnation of wood with CPES changes the cellulose of wood (which fungi and bacteria find tasty and easily digestible) into epoxy-impregnated cellulose which resists further attack by fungi and bacteria while reinforcing the wood, accomplishing restoration.
TotalBoat Penetrating Epoxy may be applied by brush, roller, or injected via syringe. CPES is a light amber color and it’s effect on the color of wood is about the same as normal varnish – it will darken it. Two coats of RAKA epoxy were applied and allowed to fully cure more than 7 days. Use the same kind of wood for the repair and line up the grain in the same direction. Water-borne, 2-part, clear epoxy coating used over Beauti-Tone spreadable stone coatings, concrete, wood, etc. UV will break down epoxy over time, making the wood susceptible to water penetration. At 70 degrees F, you’ll have about 30 minutes before the epoxy starts to harden.
GENERAL COATINGS – Liquid Glass epoxy resin is a versatile product and may be applied over almost any surface, rough or smooth. I really don’t think that flexing wood could cause a problem on many of the Glen-l designs. Holes spaced about 1 in. apart around the repair (Photo 3). Drill the holes as deep as possible without going all the way through the wood. Many oil-based stains compromise epoxy adhesion because the pores of the wood are plugged by these stains.
The resin system is derived from natural wood resin and, therefore, develops a chemical adhesive bond to the wood resin and wood fibers in the new wood. The VOC-Compliant version of this product meets Wood Products Regulation 8 Rule 32 of the California Bay Area Air Quality Management District BAAQMD and corresponding Rules of other AQMDs. We only carry the Aluthane cause generally you want an epoxy or some sort of primer under the 2-part polyurethanes we carry and also because the Aluthane, if used as a topcoat, gives a neat fresh galvanized look to surfaces (such as trailers, sailboat masts, etc). Primers are usually 10-25% solvent while penetrating epoxies are/were 50-75% solvent.
The difference between epoxy paint and marine epoxy is that that marine epoxy is raw resins and curing agents and a few misc additives. If your considering a canoe have a look at /boats/ these are not hard to make once you have made the strong back and can be made with strips of 6 mm plywood rather than solid wood – The bracing need not be exotic Kevlar either but packing strapping will do the same job. That’s because old boats often times already have rot in progress and to encapsulate is to lock in all 3 ingredients for rot making the problem worse. Acrylics have the advantage of water clean-up and lack of solvent fumes, but typically do not penetrate into wood as well as oils.
Wood impregnated with MultiWoodPrime changes the natural wood cellulose (which fungi and bacteria find tasty and easily digestible) into epoxy-impregnated cellulose, which resists attack by fungi and bacteria. But as all of us who build boats know – if you cut something that has been coated the epoxy only soaks in a very small distance – a mm or less. In new construction or when existing trim is removed for refinishing, we recommend that you encapsulate the piece with two to three coats of epoxy on all sides prior to installation and prior to applying varnish.
For a classic runabout, I would go with mahogany and encapsulate it. It just means that the boat will have to be maintained pretty well and you’d have to ensure that the encapsulated barrier is kept intact. If the inner water evaporation rate is high enough, any external coating or antifouling paint alone, if perhaps ten years build-up will give wood with moisture below perhaps 15-20%. Can you recommend a finish, preferably not an oil based to keep the wood from yellowing.
To determine how much CPES you might need, use your best judgment based on the type, finish and condition of the wood. STORAGE – The bar top Liquid Glass epoxy should be stored in a dry place between 75ºF to 80ºF and out of the reach of children. It was relatively inexpensive, formed a smooth medium gloss finish and adhered well to the WEST treated plywood of the boat. The heat usually escapes to the surrounding air by conduction so it is important to spread the epoxy out in a tray rather than keep it in a pot after mixing. If you are going to store the boat out of the water there is no reason to use treated wood.
If you’re going to waterproof something, you want to make it completely waterproof, in other words, encapsulate it. If you coat only one side of a piece of wood with three coats of West, you may still get water under the West from capilary action from the untreated sides, especially endgrain. MAS Penetrating Epoxy Sealer is a low-viscosity epoxy formulation that penetrates deep into rotten or damaged wood, restoring structure and providing a solid base for additional repairs. Oil based paint is more durable, but takes much longer to cure between coats, for a boat like this Latex paint will work fine.
Once cleaned, a quick application of DEFY Wood Brightener will brighten the wood and restore the wood’s natural beauty. Fortunately solvents are also flex agents (by messing up the epoxy cross linking). Also since terrrazo is a composite material made up of various materials such as cement, stone, limestone make sure that you use a strong epoxy primer that can assure adequate bonding with these surfaces (stone is a notoriously difficult material for bonding!).
You will have approximately 20 minutes working time” before the epoxy begins to set up”. It works great for stabilizing wood for cabinetry and trim that may need some rejuvenation but the transom is a major structural member and under a lot of stress underway. If you plan to use pine wood with a natural finish, these tests indicate this is a good choice for the finish. One area where the TPRDA type thinners (whatever brand) are good is.. back onto the thread.. where a structural member or surface has a thin layer of rot. Gouge out all the rotted wood using a paint scraper, chisel or old screwdriver.
For use in the UK Cold Weather Clear Penetrating Epoxy Sealer is recommended, Warm Weather Clear Penetrating Epoxy Sealer should be used if the temperatures will exceed 25 degrees centigrade. If you do get some CCA treated plywood, you can use regular epoxy and get good results, assuming the stock is dry (12% moisture content or less). It is formed by applying liquid epoxy to the edges of the sheets to be joined, pushing them together and gluing a strip of ply to one or both sides of the seam. Epoxy is the material that makes wooden boatbuilding possible for the average person.