Tool Parts Direct is the leading online supplier of planer parts for repairing handheld planer power tools. Adjust the plane blade with the adjustment knob to get the thickness of the shaving that you want. Early planes were made from wood with a rectangular slot or mortise cut across the center of the body. It is designed to make people pick it up and say, It’s so cute!” And it’s designed to empty your wallet – it’s easy to spend $1,000 on a vintage No. 1 plane. Stanley truly felt that their planes were the best in the world, and they were hell-bent to force that belief in every corner of the globe. One nice fence and body, the other parts still retain some of the original plating.
Thanks for such a thorough and awesome write up. I will be doing this on a new plane I picked up for $3 dollars at a garage sale this last weekend. On my Stanley I have a slight (1 milliliter?) difference between left and right when I assemble the frog. Smooth, or Smoothing, Plane: Developed from the original Bailey plane, the smooth plane is similar in construction but usually much smaller than the Jack Plane, Since it is not expected to take off as much material as the Jack Plane, it does not require as great a force to operate the smoothing plane.
The Bailey Adjustment necessitates a certain amount of back lash in the adjustment system in order for the screw to able to turn. One advantage to having the original tote and knob is – for Stanley Planes in particular – it helps type date the plane. I bought Record planes from Lee Valley a few years ago, but if I had it to do over again, I’d go the used route (I’ve got a few other handtools that I’ve bought used and restored, and I’m happy with that approach). Some bullnose planes have a removable toe so that they can pull double duty as a chisel plane. To seal the wood we applied a penetrating finish of several coats of boiled linseed oil.
During this travel you will see three illuminated numbers written on the wall on the left hand side. The long sole of a No. 4 or larger plane will actually prevent the tool from removing more than a shaving (maybe two) in a small area. The styles of this period demanded smooth, finished wood surfaces and classical mouldings with their fine differentiation of planes and surfaces.
If gaps appear between the back of the iron and the back of the mouth, or if the iron rocks in the throat, remove the iron and carefully file down the high spots in the plane. In planing, the left hand holds the work firmly against the block of the bench-hook, pressing it somewhat to the right against the plane. The bullnose plane has a very short leading edge to its body, and so can be used in tight spaces; most commonly of the shoulder and rabbet variety. Here they will make a variety of wood crafts under the supervision of an instructor and a parent.
I’m putting the frog as numero uno here because I think it is the most important thing that makes a bench plane work well AND is the most difficult to replace. If this happens, use your fingers to nudge the back of the plane blade on the same side as the thicker part of the shaving to even up the projection at the mouth. For sale in condition as photos handle and knob spare removed from Stanley Bailey no 4 plane. Its plane iron is set at a more acute angle with the face than in ordinary planes and with the bevel upwards.
Many other makers experimented with casting planes, either as complete planes or in combination with wood as in later transitional types; initially, none could make planes in sufficient quantities or economically enough to compete with wooden planes. It consists of a smooth-soled stock as of wood or iron, from the under side or face of which projects slightly the steel cutting edge of a chisel, called the iron, which inclines backward, with an aperture in the front for the escape of shavings. Merely even though my obturate plane is angstrom precision dick now it didn’t start out that.
At the top are a crude Stanley #110 on the left and Sargent’s idea of a low-angle block on the right…an adjustable mouth, but too large for my hand and too little support for the iron. Lateral Adjustment Lever – the lateral adjustment lever is used to adjust the plane iron by skewing it so the depth of cut is uniform across the mouth of the plane. It’s very difficult to close your hand around the tote on this one, unless you have small hands. It breaks the chips or curls the shavings as they pass up over the blade through the mouth of the plane.
Nobunaga14 writes: Okay, now I’m totally inspired to try making a wooden hand plane. These could not be produced by any tool other than the plane because mould-cutting machinery did not come onto the market until the middle of the nineteenth century. On some variations, the slit is accompanied by a circular bevel, cut in the side of the plane which causes the shaving to eject to the side through the open body of the plane.
Recognizing that using a hammer requires an acquisition of a set of skills, in each of their woodworking manuals, Chelsea Fraser and Walt Durbahn give discussions (with illustrations) of recommended techniques of hammering nails. Stanley made planes for wards sears and older hardware chains that no longer exist like keen kutter branded planes from EC Simmons. And the last part of that sentence is what is important here: typical furniture parts.
Sources: adapted from Herman Hjorth, Principles of Woodworking Milwaukee: The Bruce Publishing Company, 1930, page 12; Charles G Wheeler, Woodworking for Beginners, 1899, page 445; R A Salaman’s Dictionary of Woodworking Tools, c. 1700-1970, and Tools of Allied Arts. Combine that with a thin blade and poor frog to base connection and your plane will likely chatter across the wood like a jack hammer. The punks of America, serving time during their plane tutelage, did their very best to make the planes scream UNCLE! Mark the location of the hole for the crosspin on the outside of the plane assembly, and use the drill press to bore the 3/8-in.-dia.
I’m sure you all have stories to tell about your hand plane purchases and what you’ve learned along the way. Chris is a contributing editor to Popular Woodworking Magazine and the publisher at Lost Art Press. The corrugated version of the #5 1/4 A tough plane to find, if you’re smitten by the collecting bug. The frog is screwed down to the inside of the sole through two parallel slots and on many planes is only adjustable with a screwdriver when the plane iron is removed.
Planing wood along its side grain should result in thin shavings rising above the surface of the wood as the edge of the plane iron is pushed forward, leaving a smooth surface, but sometimes splintering occurs. Jointer Plane – A Jointer Plane is a finishing plane for large surfaces and is invariably used to true up the edges of boards so that they can be closely fitted or joined together.
A very short block will prevent the chisel cutting deeper at one point than another, but the tool will follow the irregularities of the surface and, though it may make the surface smooth, it will not make it level, or flat; so the block is made longer, that it may not go down into all the little hollows, but plane off only the higher parts. I’ve had good luck sourcing replacement Stanley plane parts from Home>Tools>stanley Reproduction Replacement Parts.
Tags: Eclectiques Boutique, antique plane, stanley plane, stanley bailey, antique tools, primitive tools, wood plane, stanley no 4, woodworking tools, collectible tools, stanley tools, vintage tools. I’ve seen some planes, especially jack planes, that have had their toe and heel ground off so that they are squared across the width of the plane. There is a reason the plane looks like a copy of the stanley most likely it is a stanley. In using this plane see that the corner of the cutter is in line with the sole, and that both it and the spur are sharp. You don’t need one bench plane of each size to do good work (though don’t tell my wife that).
Stanley planes – Unless you are into serious woodworking, chances are good that you only need a couple of these at most along with a good block style plane. I checked ebay again and found another Wards Master plane again with a very very low price. Stanley eventually bought Sargent and Union so sometimes a plane that resembles a union or sargent of a later date will be a stanley made plane. Before starting to plane always inspect (1) the cutter, to make certain that it is set correctly for the task, especially not protruding too far through the bottom. Typical furniture parts range from 2″ wide to 24″ wide and 12″ long to 48″ long.
The dado-plane is much like the rabbeting-plane, except that it is provided with two spurs, one at each side of the cutting edge, to score the wood before cutting. From the left, a stock #60½ I just finished above, my old standby #65, and a near-new Lie-Nielsen #60½ low-angle rabbeting block plane. You can’t hold it like a regular bench plane because there’s not enough space in front of the tote. The chisel plane , which removes wood up to a perpendicular surface such as from the bottom inside of a box.
Why anyone would smack the heel of the iron on this kind of plane is lost on me. If your plane has this feature, a file will make short order of it. Canadian Chips is right on, I bought an old wooden fore plane that was busted out on the side and at the time I considered it unrepairable. It’s best to pass examples with this problem, unless you can salvage it for parts.