Mortise-and-tenon joints are among the strongest joints in woodworking, and are used for projects that have frame construction and need to be strong. So having a jig that allows you to cut small pieces and at the same time keeping your fingers away from the blade is essential. Since we are making a 1/4″ tenon here we need to remove 1/4″ from either side of the board. I actually used my bandsaw to make tenons for the first time on my last project of the Chinese stools. Obviously the more the tenon can parallel the grain the stronger it will be so the angled tenon technically is weaker. I think Norm’s earlier shows featured the RAS for a lot of tasks, including tenon cutting.
You’re spinning the log and using a knife to carve a shape that LOOKS like you carved it with a draw-knife. I’m decidedly bias but I find this angle tenon debate a simple one to solve when viewed from the hand tool solution. Clamp the jig and the work to the workbench, placing at least two clamps where they won’t interfere with the router’s movement. After positioning the rip fence so the blade lines up with the outer tenon cheek cut line, the outer cheek is cut with the first pass of the jig over the blade. My methods come from having made hundreds of chairs and I have personally taught over five hundred people to make their own rocking chairs with narrow backs and wide fronts.
I found that my router table/ lift with a straight bit gives me exceptionally repeatable results. As mentioned in other answers, a matching long tenon can be made with a table saw, a dado blade, and a tenoning jig. For instance… if you want a 3/8″ wide tenon in a 3/4″ board, you would need to cut rabbets at 3/16″ on each side. As shown in the picture, the jig is basically two pieces joined at a ninety degrees. I think what really drives this debate is a difference between the woodworker reliant on power tools for accuracy and the woodworker who can cut a joint with hand tools.
Tenons can be formed by making repetitive dado blade passes with the stock laying flat on the work table surface – or by making (usually) six cuts with a regular saw blade and a tenoning jig that lets you stand the stock on end to cut the broad sides of the tenons cheeks. The scale on this unit is not precise enough for me to rely on. I plan to try adding a digital readout so that I can get higher you add a wooden face to the fence, make sure it is fastened to the fence raised up from the table so that it will clear the bottom plate.
If you have a drill press that will make the job easier and you can be very accurate on how deep you drill all the holes. The only inconvenient is that we need a jig for each different section of the wooden bars we use or even two if we want to route a mortise both in the wide and in the narrow face. Now if you ever find yourself needing to make some wooden pulleys then this video from woodentoolman shows you how to. Sometimes it is just not safe to make cuts on a table saw without a fixture like this. Butt the workpiece against the rip fence and make four passes around the workpiece.
The Delta 34-184 tenoning jig is packaged well in formed styrofoam and coated in copious amounts of grease/oil. To rout a mortise you will need a plunge router and a jig of some sort; it is simply not possible to rout these joints free hand. What we try is to select a router bit which diameter is more or less equal to that measure. Once you use the system, you will understand how quick and easy it is. Make the tenons.
Today I’m going to teach you how to make a simple through tenon which is pretty much the same as a blind tenon except that it goes all the way through the piece of wood instead of a blind tenon which stops inside the wood and is hidden from view. For the rail (or any mortise that needs to be cut in the end of a workpiece) the bar with the toggle clamps is moved into a vertical position. If all is well, I can spread some glue into the mortises and on the tenon and clamp the joint until dry.
Alternatively you could make multiple passes to remove material, eliminating the need to make shoulder cuts to begin with, although we found this took much longer, particularly if you have multiple tenons to create. Make the mortises while the leg stock is still rectangular, before any shaping of the legs. We hope many of them will soon make your ship a better place to relax and create.
Using materials you are likely to have already in the workshop, and some readily-available hardware, building the Ultimate Tenon Jig is an enjoyable weekend project in itself. The system that I use involves a basic plunge router, an edge guide for the router, an upcut spiral mortising bit and a shop made jig. Recently, Leigh has released a few extra joint guides to further enhance the functionality of the FMT.
This jig from Woodworkers Guild of America shows you how simple the jig can be to be able to make this cut on a table saw. If you need to cut dowels, then this clever little jig from Jim Steinbrecher shows you a very clever way of shaping dowels on a table saw. Join hundreds of log furniture enthusiasts like yourself who get fresh content delivered to their email inbox every time we publish! This jig can be made out of steel you can buy at your local steel supplier or use scrap if you have some around the shop. After attempting to cut a number of tenons on my band saw, I decided to buy a tenoning jig instead.
The Ultimate Tenon Jig is available as both The Ultimate Bandsaw Tenon Jig and The Ultimate Tablesaw Tenon Jig, which, unlike traditional jigs, has convenient in-built guarding which allows you to cut proper tenons WITHOUT COMPROMISING YOUR SAFETY. The adjustable bar means this jig can accommodate small variances in table saw miter slots that you might find across various manufacturers. When the glue has dried I have a template that matches the existing assembly and I use a router with a flush trim bit to cut the mortises in the top. Obviously, make sure the diameter is less than or equal to the width of your mortise.
With this addition, the jig works very well, and has the additionally advantage of being able to cut flush with the inner side of the work piece, since the blade is against my plywood facing piece instead of agaist the cast iron. While the jig will control the movement of the router during the cut, remember,it is the router bit that does the actual cutting. For this 5/16″ wide x 1 1/16″ deep mortise in a light hardwood, I would typically use about eight passes with the motor speed at 18,000 – 20,000 RPM. I have been all set up to make a cut at my tablesaw and then had a worst case scenario flash through my head (thanks to Sawstop, and the website ), and then just walked away.
Because the dado method cuts both cheek and shoulder with the same setup, it’s a lot faster to get a finished tenon, IMO, than by using a tenoning jig. The Ultimate Tablesaw Tenon Jig is much safer than traditional tablesaw tenon jigs, so you don’t risk losing your fingers on an unguarded blade. I’ve measured on my Freud router and found I could push the bit to cut a maximum of 1 1/4″ below the base – a decent sized tenon.
As you can see the jig component with the toggle clamp is rotated to be in a vertical position. Build the jig carefully, and then finish the job on your jointer or on the tablesaw to be certain the high face is perpendicular to the two bottom edges. Both Trend ( ), and Leigh, ( ), make a dedicated jig that you can use to rout both the tenons and mortises.
The smaller platform is simply a secondary support for the router and an attachment point for the stop. Since the top of the fence may not always be parallel to the top of the table, I now recommend sitting part A down directly on the table saw so that the jig slides on that. I will have the wife make a short video of my Tenon jig, how I set up and how it routes the tenons on the logs. Detailed video of its construction and use, complete with SketchUp models and printable tenon jig plans to print off and take into the workshop with you.
However, I also throw a second clamp on the board, just to make sure the workpiece doesn’t move at all. Once the matching mortises are cut into the two work pieces, the loose tenon is inserted and the pieces are dry-fitted. The following steps show you how to make this joint with a drill press and chisel and a table saw using a tenoning jig. The jig that I use for cutting mortises with the router is a relatively simple affair. If you’re looking for information on how to make a particular woodworking joint, or how many different ways there are to make that joint, this book has the answer.
Mortise-and-tenon joints come in several types — stopped/blind, through, angled, wedged, and many more — but they all consist of the same basic parts: a mortise (a recess cut into a piece of wood that accepts a tenon) and a tenon (a tongue at the end of a board that fits into a mortise). Caution: The photos show the bit lowered to contact the surface of the wood only to make the settings.