Recommended for use on exterior wood decks, fences, siding, railings, outdoor furniture and other wood surfaces. Unlike metal or plastic surfaces, wood presents a substrate that varies in density, porosity, and stability. With moisture proof or moisture resistant coatings the hardness or density and porosity of the wood substrate will dictate the required number of build coats. I can’t say for sure that CAB Acrylic is an appropriate finish for a floor but it sure works well on furniture.
The point here is you get the effect of an oil with the first coat; to build a protective coating with a satin, semi-gloss or gloss sheen, it’s quicker to seal it with dewaxed shellac and move on to lacquer rather than build up multiple coats of a drying oil. Every wood species takes pigments differently, and while color charts can provide some guidance, don’t rely on them.
For these conditions, you need to protect your project with a finish that has ultraviolet absorbers and special oils that expand and contract with temperature changes. Precatalyzed lacquer has the components premixed, either by the manufacturer or at the store when you buy it; post-catalyzed lacquer is a two-part system that you must mix in your shop, following precise ratios. French polishing is not polishing as such, but a method of applying many thin coats of shellac using a rubbing pad, yielding a very fine glossy finish.
Now that I’m thinking about it more, Arm-R-Seal is meant to be a top coat but it also needs to penetrate into the wood. In Williams’ study, wood that had been painted before being exposed to UV maintained its integrity for well over 20 years. We are very negative about these types of finishes because the colour tends to be suspended in the varnish on the surface of the wood, rather than being in the grain of the wood. Larger defects that interfere with wood finishing include dent, gouges, splits and glue spots and smears. If your option to cutting back the finish is refinishing, you might as well try it. Pour a generous amount of clear or neutral Danish oil onto a very fine steel wool pad.
Likely if your Armada Satin brightwork is in good repair a light sanding with 120 grt or a maroon scotchbrite pad can be overcoated with Armada clear gloss, original gloss or Dark gloss to achieve a gloss finish. Since it cleans up with lacquer thinner I knew there would be fumes but the odor was a real surprise. WOCA, which was mentioned by another poster, is another fancy floor finish from Europe. Here’s a trick for getting a glass-smooth finish on your next woodworking project.
It’s been 4 years, and I still like the appearance – admittedly, I can’t say one way or the other if it has yellowed much at all, but it sure doesn’t look like it has to me. I chose to do that because it’s a finish that’s very easy to refresh with a new application. Shellacs – While most people think of shellac as a liquid finish found at a paint store, in its pure form it’s a natural resin secreted from a bug that feeds on trees, mostly in India and Thailand.
Brushing on the first two coats allows you to build up a thicker layer of finish with less cost and effort than spraying from cans. Quality brushes hold more finish, lay it on smoothly and are less likely to leave lost bristles in your clear coat. Working from a separate container prevents the dust and other particles picked up by the brush from contaminating the finish in the can. I generally pad the brushable deft on to turnings – very nice for that application.
To minimize brush marks and bubbles, tip off” each section of your project at a 45-degree angle and lightly run the bristles over the entire length of the wood. If you’ve ever purchased commercially-manufactured furniture, it more than likely has a lacquer finish. A film finish may require removing the old finish or other extensive work before refinishing. Oil-based poly has an amber tone that can dramatically change the color of stained or unstained wood.
Wood chemistry is different for all species, which makes formulating a stain even more challenging. Take a look at our blog post: Types of Wood Finishes – Making Your Wood Beautiful – covering some of the most popular types of wood finishes, those our customers ask about most often. Evaporative finishes use alcohol, acetone and nitro-cellulose lacquer thinners as solvents and thinners. Since lacquer does not form as hard a coating as most types of varnish or water-based sealers, the wood is more susceptible to water and physical damage. It is a two-part finish (you add some sort of activator to it before application).
Either way, there’s a good chance you can repair the dull and dingy look of superficial wear by renewing the existing finish. If you want it to last as long as possible, get a cover for it. And also apply a good quality outdoor finish like Epifanes. Figure 3. Protecting wood from the effects of moisture is the ultimate goal of a finish. This is exactly the situation for wood bleach (not household bleach), and you’ll be in control. The finish achieved allows protection of the teak while still visualizing the grain of the wood.
Perhaps most important from the user’s point of view, they clean up with soap and water like a water-based finish. Solid stains, with distinct, grain-hiding colors, look more like a layer of paint; they offer the ultimate protection (Figure 1). Clear sealers limit the wood’s ability to absorb moisture, and they allow the wood to gray naturally from sunlight. Wipe away any putty adhering to the wood around the gouge, and smooth the surface of the putty with a clean cloth.
For what it’s worth, I finished a hard white maple bathroom mirror frame using dewaxed shellac and spray Deft lacquer (solvent based, not water), aiming like you to keep the color as pale as possible. While you can just hit curly maple with a single coat of dye and move on to your clear topcoat, I like to do three diluted coats of dye and sand it off between each coat.
Very shiny, if you hold an object against a piece of wood that has had 2-3 coats of a gloss varnish applied there will be a clear reflection of that product in the wood. You really don’t want to use a stain on teak, however, if you want to restore and preserve the natural teak beauty and provide a durable protective finish I have used and recommend Armada original formula either gloss or matt finish. It does not have any plasticizers or other synthetics that give some finishes a characteristic artificial appearance. After the stain dries for a few days, you can add a coat of furniture wax or wipe-on poly to really liven up the old wood.
The Top coat gives the finish its final character and look wether it be high gloss or the subtle richness of a matte sheen. Another advantage to shellac is that it acts as a sealing coat and is not repelled by contaminants in old wood. The material can also be recycled through the line to apply another coat of finish or continue in a system that adds successive coats depending on the layout of the production line.
I.e to rub linseed oil into the wood to help preserve it; or beeswax to seal the wood. The suspension agent can be water, alcohol, petroleum distillate, or the actual finishing agent (shellac, lacquer, varnish, polyurethane, etc.). Colored or ‘stained’ finishes, like polyurethane, do not penetrate the pores of the wood to any significant degree and will disappear when the finish itself deteriorates or is removed intentionally.
If you have ever tried to refinish an old table that had been cleaned for years with silicone-containing dusting sprays, then you know that it is very difficult to achieve a consistent finish with polyurethane varnish. Move with the grain, and make sure the angle of the spray remains the same all the way across. The build or body coats are the part of a finish that provide moisture resistance, durability and longevity to the coating. I used Armada (3 coats) on the cedar shingle roof of an outdoor shower that is exposed to direct sunlight. For me, I absolutely hate staining and believe in letting the wood speak for itself.
This does not mean that the finish itself is safe to gobble up. It means simply that additives such as heavy-metal driers and plasticizers are encapsulated well enough that they do not migrate into your food. Achieving the proper finish will require three or four coats, each of which needs to dry and be sanded before the next goes on, exposing you to high VOC concentrations for least two days.
Whether you’re refinishing boards that have already been coated or starting from scratch, a clean, open-pored surface is the key to getting the most protection and life out of any finish. For really high-wear floor or furniture applications that require a harder finish, be sure to look for the lowest-VOC finishes that are available. Wax is an evaporative finish because it is dissolved in turpentine or petroleum distillates to form a soft paste.
Furthermore, filled voids do not behave like wood during subsequent finishing steps, and they age differently to wood. It also says not to thin which would have helped it. On ease of use I’d give it one star, the finish though is now 6 mos. We do not test General Finishes products with those of another manufacturer and will not accept liability if there is a compatibility issue.