Teak Care

Marine varnishes are recommended for use in coastal regions and other areas where exterior timbers are exposed to marine environments. There may be occasions when you wish to remove unsightly wood stains from the surface before re-varnishing. Ask anyone who has ever used Epifanes High Gloss Clear Varnish and you will learn why it is considered to be the world’s best spar varnish. Therefore, no finish on some species is definitely a good, cost-effective option, especially if the wood tends to last well outdoors.

I would recommend using the Manns Pine Wood Stain to get the differing colours/tones that you are looking for. A good quality, fine, natural bristle brush is a must if you want a good finish to your boat varnish. There are a number of fillers that you could use, but you might want to start by looking at the Bona Gap Master there are a selection of colours available that you could colour match ( go slightly darker as opposed to lighter if there is not an exact match ) with the wood and then varnish over with a Water Based Varnish. Please explore our featured superior alternatives to traditional exterior varnishes.

Our product of choice for exterior entry doors, garage doors, and decorative natural wood is a coating that is flexible and breathable. If you’re looking to keep the doors as natural as possible, consider Osmo Polyx Oil Raw 3044 or Fiddes Hard Wax Oil Natural. The cloudy, opaque look of the Cetol Marine and Marine Light products may not appeal to everyone, but the fact they’ve maintained their color for more than a year is a good example that higher-solids finishes tend to offer better UV protection.

The virtue of spar varnish lies in its elasticity and water resistance and much less on its appearance. Varnish is esthetically pleasing, but probably is the least cost-effective finish because maintenance expense is high. Pour enough varnish for one coat into a small container then reseal the can to keep the remaining varnish from being contaminated. Once varnish starts to crack, it must be stripped and a new varnish coating applied. I have found Spar Varnish is the best thing I can use for any wood projects that are outside. Wiping varnish is arguably the single best finish for most amateur woodworking projects.

The spar varnish I’ve been using recommends at least three coats 8hrs apart for outdoor use, I would recommend at least that many for a lasting finish. The traditional key to any great looking (and successful) varnish job is to build up numerous coats of the best varnish you can afford, sanding in between each coat until a flat and uniform surface appears. I wiped down the table top and its components with mineral spirits, let it dry then applied a thin coat of this spar varnish and was very impressed with the results. So if the wood absorbs moisture, the finish will expand and contract with the wood and won’t crack.

If you do, you can choose which type of varnish to use, polyurethane, spar or alkyd, and you can also choose between gloss and satin. Often oils used in paints and and varnish contain a high level of polyunsaturated fatty acids. In old ships various mixtures of tar and oil were used to coat wood and help provide improved sun and weather resistance. I am certainly no specialist in the area of siding, but I am sure a good quality spar varnish would indeed protect adequately.

These finishes (Deks Olya and International Dex 1&2 are typical, but there are others favoured by some boat-builders) were mainly developed by the Scandihooligans and are really good for boats that are going to spend a lot of time getting wet and living in wet conditions.K. I will admit it up front, I have never used any of these, so please take any of my thoughts with a big pinch of salt!

Once this was all sanded down and good to go we applied 4 coats of dulux interior wood white paint (waiting 8 hours between each application), but even after the suggested drying time and 3 months on the paint is still tacky, leaves dirt marks and impressions in the paint whenever you stand on it, and if any item is left on it when you pick it up it takes a chunk of paint stuck to it. Sounds like perhaps it hasn’t cured (it was quite humid and rainy outside over the few days we did this).

Our search for the ideal wood finish—relatively easy to apply, easy to maintain, lasts multiple seasons, and is affordable—began in 2007 when we took a look at the different types of exterior wood finishes on the market, their pros and cons, and how easy they were to apply (one-part varnishes, August 2007; varnish alternatives, October 2007; two-part varnishes, December 2007; teak oils and stains, April 2008).

Exterior wood entry doors, Wood garage doors, Entry ways, Wood shutters, Wood hand rails, Wood outdoor furniture, Interior window sills & frames, Planters, Wood trim on boats (above water line), Wood projects (birdhouses, mailboxes, etc.). Man ‘War Spar Varnish should not be used on: Decks, Stairs , House siding, Log cabins, Wood on boats below water level.

I waited 24 hours as the can/instructions recommended before applying a second coat of varnish. Note: Weather conditions or sudden drops in temperature will affect any varnish. There’s no one-size-fits-all solution, and the boat owner who finds gratification in the wet, glossy look of a two-part varnish borne of painstaking preparation and careful application will weigh our test data much differently than the one who regards brightwork maintenance as a masochistic endeavor. The crew maintains wood finishes throughout the sailing season, and success involves more than just incessantly brushing on yet another layer of varnish.

As it turns out, marine environments are still the most rigorous testing grounds for assessing the durability of clear, exterior wood finishes in action, and Canada’s classic sailing ship the Bluenose II is the best example I’ve seen. Thus alkyd varnish can have a wide range of characteristics for many applications. There are a number of propriety wood applications which promise enhanced UV protection but which are basically pigmented emulsions which coat the wood, in my humble opinion a coat of paint would look better. Tung oil based marine varnishes are better choices for applications that are exposed to a lot of liquid water or for direct sun applications.

The more sun, rain and heat the finish gets, the faster the wood and finish degrade. The only finishes that held up were Epifanes High Gloss Marine Varnish ( ) or Smith & Co Penetrating epoxy sealer, top-coated with Epifanes Marine Varnish. I’d just like to point out that I’m referring to the type of stain which soaks right into the wood and dyes it. M. You touched on two things I don’t know a whole lot about: pressure treated wood and paint. They ‘work’ just like a varnish with prep and sanding and drying and sanding requirements. Only one of the three doors gets hammered with hard late afternoon sun and heat.

If you are getting lots of brush marks and you are not over-working your brush, you can try thinning the varnish a little (about 10% maximum) or adding a very small amount of Penetrol to get the varnish to flow out after your brush leaves the surface, but watch out for excessive amounts of additives. The wood tops are more than granite but because it’s a relatively small amount of square footage the bottom dollar is not that much different. Leroy Douglas Violins also has a large interesting section on violin varnish and finish. Be extremely careful when using chemical paint stripper to remove old layers of varnish.

Because it simply enhances the inherent beauty of the wood-more like salt than sauce-oiling is arguably the most attractive of all wood finishes, and it restores some of the teak’s natural oils and resins. Even after more modern synthetic resins did become resistant, a true spar varnish maintained its elasticity above other virtues, even if this required a compromise in its UV-resistance.

However, in our experience they are somewhat lacking in flexibility which may lead to cracking when coated over a bare wood substrate. And the key to avoiding damaging the surface is to allow a few days for the varnish to fully cure before putting the floor back into full use and avoiding scraping furniture about on the surface. A specialized product, called Cetol Marine (with very similar composition, in fact, to the other Cetol products) is slightly more useful in salt water environments. I had a friend years ago that used what I supposed was a clear linear polyurethane wood ‘varnish’ on his boat’s brightwork, and he claimed it was a 10 year coating.

We do not recommend the over thinning of varnish as some persons do. Wood is much like a mesh screen in that it will pass certain size molecules and not others. Oil intensifies the colors and grain patterns of wood and gives the wood a rich, warm appearance. If you have not committed to a process, and only want to do it once not having to worry too much about the future, I would strongly suggest you forget the ‘traditional’ finish for wood wheels and look at an exterior tung oil product such as those made by Waterlox for your first effort.