Iv heard boiled linseed oil is supposed to be good on most types of wood decks but can take a long time to dry in, while leaving a sticky surface. The only time I’ve used either was on stocks that were in good shape and I wanted to shine them up. Then I used linseed oil. Posted 08-28-2001 04:48 PM Profile for Georg Moe Email Georg Moe Send New Private Message Edit/Delete Post Reply With Quote First of all, I prefer Deks D1 over linseed oil. Well, linseed oil can ‘feed’ rot, but if you start with the right amount of poison, this should be eliminated.
I was assured by the owner of the wood mill that this would last not only my life-time, but all my son’s life-time, and his sons’ life time. After five to ten years it fades, hence why we encourage the application of a layer of warmed, cleaned, boiled linseed oil. True, but Hans Allb�ck’s traditional method of cleaning and purifying the linseed oil of all proteins and impurities, has given his paints similar anti-fungicidal properties. It is also good for protecting outside working tools such as rakes or shovels with wooden handles.
The Wikipedia entry on Coconut oil has a table that gives the breakdown of saturated vs. unsaturated fat for a selection of commonly used oils and you can see that coconut oil is the most saturated. It also forms in engine oil when the high temperatures cause some of it to polymerize – that’s why used motor oil and the gunk on the outside of your engine is black. I rarely use LO any more accept for color glazing and occasional oil staining, never as a first coat on wood. Yes, but it is not recommended because the linseed oil can destroy the silicone seal in the double glass.
Linseed oil paint of good quality yellows very little and only in the absence of daylight (like under a flowerpot.) The yellow tint disappears if the patch is exposed to daylight. I told her I thought oil would look better, so I would use BLO and dull lacquer, and if later she wanted white, I could easily spray it later. We recently purchase your tung oil and citrus solvent to treat our maple floor (before we installed it).
Linseed oil paint is inexpensively maintained by applying the Purified Organic Boiled Linseed Oil or the linseed oil wax every 5-10 years. Use the boiled linseed oil if you want to paint with the linseed oil paint right away. If you can find a way, get all the wood in the dishwasher for a cycle or two to get the old stuff out of the wood. What a messy job this is. I have thinned some linseed oil and have paintd the posts with it which just soaked it up. Almost no runoff or drips as it soaked in almost as fast as we put it on. We are going to just put one coat on since the primer is a linseed based primer also.
It costs more than a good extra virgin olive oil even buying it 20 litres at a time but it is worth it. I always heard that Danish Oil and Teak Oil were the same thing, except that Teak Oil may or may not have UV blockers added to it. That said, even if it is flax and not tung or oiticica or cashew nut oil (good suspect there), dehydrated Castor oil, or any of the other commercial coatings oils used for damn near a century now, it is not just the oil that’s creating the surface shown in the pictures of the application PDF. Don’t allow the linseed to pool or form puddles but try to get an even layer across all the wood.
A good boat paint should prevent both liquid and vapor water from getting into wood, but should allow water vapor to exit freely. Gail – If the cabinets are clean, just worn, then the oil and vinegar solution should definitely help revive them. If using tung oil or linseed oil, mix a small amount of the oil with an equal amount of turpentine, mineral oil, or other solvent. I found that tung oil is the absolute best product available for the inner bore of these instruments of keep moisture from soaking into the wood and causing possible splitting issues. One of the major issues with linseed oil is that take a very long time to dry and before a second coat can be applied.
Used for pine beehive brood boxes, two coats brushed on and left for 3 to 4 days between each coat for oil to sink into wood. Indeed, raw linseed oil has a drying time of about three days or more for each coat, which doesn’t make it very popular… Generally, this oil will be diluted with the same quantity of citrus solvent or odorless thinner. TEMPERATURE: Tung Oil should remain above freezing during and after application for a period of 10 to 15 days. Purchased this oil for the side plates on the BBQ, easy to apply and looks fantastic. Boiled linseed oil does not usually have UV inhibitors, unless the label specifically states that it is for exterior use.
So, I showed a carpenter a picture and he recommended sunflower oil to darken the entire floor. Even with boiled linseed oil you still have the problem of turpentine trying to evaporate through the finish, which may cause the paint lifting off. Oil saturation underneath a paint or varnish is also a good combination, as oil prevents water from geting into wood when the paint surface gets scratched.
Linseed oil does not fully cure well by itself, because all the double bonds in those chains cannot easily find each other. Extracted from the ripe seeds of the plant, linseed oil has been used for a few hundred of years for the protection and maintenance of interior and exterior wood. If your wood has crevices, use a soft bristled brush to dust in them, or use a soft brush attachment on a vacuum, held just closely enough to extract the dust. Basically you try to get as much linseed in as possible and dilute it only as much as is necessary to get it there.
These other applications use linseed oil in unique ways that differ both practically and aesthetically from simply treating a mile of raw wooden fence. Whether you go with shellac, oil, or spar varnish, expect to reapply the finish every year or two on exterior wood. Danish oil and tung oil may not require such extensive rubbing; follow the manufacturer’s specific instructions. Once I’d found out that I could use this oil on oak wood (despite the warning on the label) as recommended by The Futon Co. It brought out the beauty of the oak wood on my Futon couch and chair.
There is a way of sealing the glazing grooves with shellac, preventing the oil from getting into the seals. If you use thinner or terpentine, it will make the product thinner yes, but it will also de grease the wood, and the resin in the wood will dry so in long term the wood will become more fragile and dry more. Linseed oil is prized among woodworkers for its water-repelling properties and luster after being applied.
In practice it is recommended to use a boiled linseed as we want to get the job done and admire our handy work! However, when the milling industry became industrialized, sap-saturated wood clogged dust shoots and dulled saw blades quickly. Painted, varnished or waxed wood will therefore need to be cleaned and/or stripped to bare wood before proceeding with linseed oil application.
Depending on exposure to weather, the linseed oil on the very surface will break down after about 10 years – which simply means the surface will go slightly chalky. Not only is linseed critical to the proper seasoning of a cricket bat, it can also be used as a food additive or nutritional supplement (due to the high omega 3 fatty acid content). But modern paints will crack and allow moisture to get in behind it (NEVER use latex outside – it rots wood since there is no way for moisture to escape).
The linseed oil paint’s drying environment is affected by the quality of material, manufacturing process, temperature, ventilation, daylight, humidity, the absorption capacity of the surface and the thickness of the paint layer. I ran out furniture polish and need to polish my wood furniture, any home tips anyone can give to me will be helpful. Oil is useful only in nourishing wood, but in this case, the oil isn’t even getting to the wood. Example: wood, iron, gutters, glass, and alkyd and acrylic based paints in good condition.
You can NOT mix the Linseed oil paint into the Linus interior paint but you can find acrylic based pigments on the market designed for water based paint that will work. You use the raw oil (with turp) to saturate the wood, then you use the boiled oil as a final layer (before varnishing/painting the wood). Here’s the easy one: look at it. If you have an opaque covering over the wood – no grain visible – it’s painted. I agree with Keith,,, a neighbor had finished coating his deck and tossed the balled up rags onto a junk pile of wood. This finish is often desired in furniture or other exterior wood surfaces where in might be a more appropriate choice.
Apply a small amount of lemon oil, mineral oil or baby oil to the dried surface as a lubricant. Another expert” on a vegetarian food page suggests a furniture polish/dust remover made of 1/2 cup lemon juice and 1/2 cup olive oil. When using a cloth, use a circular or figure of eight pattern to work into the wood, and apply until the wood stops absorbing. And I’ll still add some Penetrol to BM penetrating primer if the wood is really dead. If I remember correctly Birchwood Casey had other wood treatment products as well. You can also use a coat or two of oil based primer that has linseed oil in it (Benjamin Moore Fresh Start is the one I use).