Antique Stanley Woodworking Planes

Hand planes are generally the combination of a cutting edge, such as a sharpened metal plate, attached to a firm body, that when moved over a wood surface, take up relatively uniform shavings, by nature of the body riding on the ‘high spots’ in the wood, and also by providing a relatively constant angle to the cutting edge, render the planed surface very smooth. I suppose it should be noted that if you are a tool collector who is buying expensive planes meant for collections, you’ll never want to work on them without the perfect tools that Tony describes for fear of nicking or marring the antique fittings. For the sake of consistency, and for the economy of my time, I decided to do a ‘brain dump’ of what I know about Stanley planes – what they look like, what they do, what common parts are missing, what flaws they suffered during use, etc. A side-escapement plane has a tall, narrow, wooden body with an iron held in place by a wedge. My personal favorite bench plane is a Stanley #5. They’re still pretty common too.

After achieving a flat surface with the jack plane/power plane combo, the next goal is achieving a smooth surface. Planes of this type have been found in excavations of old sites as well as drawings of woodworking from medieval Europe and Asia. Router planes come in several sizes and can also be pressed into service to thickness the cheeks of tenons so that they are parallel to the face of the board. After sawing out your parts, eliminate saw marks with a few passes of the block plane.

Add into the mix all the new bevel-up bench planes that are available in the catalogs now, and it’s bewildering enough to make you want to cuddle up close to your belt sander. A: The mouth is an opening in the bottom of the plane down through which the blade extends, and up through which wood shavings pass. You will quickly get a feel for when it’s ‘right,’ as evidenced by the rewarding ‘thwack’ sound a plane makes when it cuts a perfect curl. Per another one of your video’s I am purchasing an old Bailey Plane and this video was perfect for getting it back in shape.

In this article, I’m going to walk through the entire line of forms of the metallic-bodied bench planes and describe what each tool is good for. In this instance tho, it was a pretty common plane that i fully intended to use so i wanted the wood to be soft and smooth. The fillister plane , similar to a rabbet plane, with a fence that registers on the board’s edge to cut rabbets with an accurate width. For the hand tool purist, a shoulder plane is used to do the heavy lifting in forming rabbets and tenons. Stroke the plane in one direction only and be careful to apply pressure uniformly.

A scrub plane , which removes large amounts of wood quickly, is typically around 9 inches (230 mm) long, but narrower than a smoothing plane, has an iron with a curved cutting edge, and has a wider mouth opening to accommodate the ejection of thicker shavings/chips. Clamp the plane upside down in your vise, and you can plane parts barely large enough to grasp, as shown in picture 3.

For a more economical option, look for a good quality vintage Record or Stanley should plane which can provide a good user experience as well. Now, turn the plane over, and adjust the lateral position of the blade so that the blade edge is square to the mouth. Both of these books cross-reference the original tool catalogues and literature produced by Stanley as the source for their information.

In the mid-1860s, Leonard Bailey began producing a line of cast iron-bodied hand planes, the patents for which were later purchased by Stanley Rule & Level, now Stanley Works The original Bailey designs were further evolved and added to by Justus Traut and others at Stanley Rule & Level. You are bidding on a good used Stanley No 9 1/2 block plane in great condition with no damage. These low-angle planes slice through wood more easily, but may cause tear-out along the grain.

Hold the plane at an angle to the wood so the blade slices off thin, even shavings (Photo 2). Jack planes can be set for a rougher cut, with the mouth opened slightly (.020) to accomodate. The the whole of my working life I have been looking for properly engineered hand tools at a price that was affordable. Modern hand planes are made from wood, ductile iron or bronze which produces a tool that is heavier and will not rust. The Stanley No. 45 was produced between 1884 and 1962, and is still used by woodworkers.

If the hole that the lever cap screw passes through is kidney-shaped, the plane was made in (or after) 1933. I also used it to hand plane a bunch of clear vertical grain construction redwood for a bed that I made for my wife and I almost 25 years ago. Antique & Collectible STANLEY TOOLS Guide to Identity & Value”, by John Walter (tel. It is well worth it to learn to use them and a #4, as you probably know, is a good all-round plane to have on your bench. The Bailey and Bedrock designs became the basis for most modern metal hand plane designs manufactured today. You can grab Stanley planes to heighten your craft by shopping from the reliable sellers on eBay.

The physical data of each entry was referenced from Alvin Sellens’ pioneer work, The Stanley Plane (now out of print), and from John Walter’s current book, Antique and Collectible Stanley Tools. That hand tool needed an especially carefully designed and carefully made handle. This was the unanimous view of the four people who used this plane extensively in my workshop.

Of all the planes in your arsenal, this is the most critical to buy high quality and maintain in good working order, because it will be used to produce a show surface. I’ve used the engine paint in the past (not on a hand plane, but other high use tools), and never used a primer. While the frog’s position on bench planes is adjustable, meaning you can shift if forward to decrease the size of the mouth opening or backward to increase the size of the opening, it needs to be firmly attached in whatever position you decide so that it doesn’t move when in use. Held in this position the plane is pushed forward and back until the end is smoothed.