What I do NOT like, however, is the situation that has developed with the cutter blades. The difference between a planer working well and working badly is minute in terms of blade adjustment. Re-sharpenable blades may be cheaper than a new set of disposables but they have to be reground to obtain a fresh edge, must be reset each time to account for loss of width by the grinding process, and there is a longer, more involved, changeover period. Get the most out of the tool by mastering the right way to hold and push the planer. Ryobi charges an arm and a leg for the blades (odd, since there is no middleman with their direct sales), and hopefully the TP versions at HD will be maybe a tad cheaper.
So, with the spares I have on hand already and the blades already installed I am in decent shape, although I certainly will need to get blades eventually. Begin by resting the front shoe of the planer flat on the wood without letting the blade touch the work. For about 16.00 they are going to sharpen my pair of Ryobi planer blades with about a 2 week turn around. The gauge, with its built-in scale settings, turns back and forth to move the front planer shoe up or down, setting the depth of the cut. A special thanks for diagram: without it I would would have at least puzzled a lot longer on how to mount the blades.
My AP-10 is in semi-retirement (I have a 220 volt larger planer that I use) so I can’t recall how the gauge fits together with the blade just from reading the manual. Take the blades out…. If your planer is like mine, the blades are double edged. The newer Ridgid 13 inch has 3 very narrow blades and won’t work on the original TP1300. This weekend I removed the old blades from my AP1300 as part of a cleaning, adjusting, and libricating operation and checked the edges that had been used so far and (surprise!) they were in excellent shape. When the blades are a lot too high they will leave a scoop in the end of the timber.
The AP10 is no longer available from what I’ve heard, and I don’t know much about the AP13. Although we did not need to install the planer blades at setup (because they we pre-installed), we did a dummy run of removing a replacing the blades to test how easy (or difficult) this particular task may be on the AP13. We through Pine wood, Ipe Wood, Red wood and Ironbark through the planer and each length was planed at 1mm, 2mm and 3mm depths at each pass to see how the AP13 handled it. On each occasion, the wood came out almost perfectly and we tested flatness with a long metal straight-edge rule. Blades that aren’t mounted squarely on the cutter head cause the tool to vibrate.
On the other hand, a one blade each price is not a particularly good deal, since you can get two Ridgid blades for their model TP1300 for about $30 bucks at Home Depot. They come 3 to a pack, the Rigid planer uses three blades, I guess, and mine only uses two, making one spare. I’m not saying it ain’t doable, just seems like if the disposable blades could be done practically everybody would be doing it.
Bevel a door edge to a precise 5-degree angle using an adjustable fence on the planer. Put the new planer blades back in at a guess for height and nip them up just tight enough to hold them firm, but still allow you to adjust them up and down with the adjusting screws. I just ordered some of the Rigid replacement blades from homedepot that also fit the AP1301. I kept wanting to bolt both blades together and line up with the bevel on the guide. If the blades are very low the timber will jam as it hits the end of the outfeed table. This item is an online exclusive and is not available in your local Home Depot store.
I measured the thickness on the left and right side of the board i was shooting for 1/2 inch thick, the right side was503 and left side was502 good enough for me. I will keep you posted Stumpy. Btw, for everyone, the gauges are not jigs that hold the blades while they are sharpened but alignment jigs for installing the blades. If you have the Ryobi AP1300 and need blades I would recomend these as an alternative. Most power planers have blade widths of 3-1/4 in. Some are equipped with blades 6-1/8 in. or wider. When they are spot-on the planer feels totally different and you will get a perfect finish right up to the end.
I’m not sure why whatever you read said that the 4330 blades would fit, but I am not a believer and I think the information is wrong. Working around its lack of extension tables forced me to use a pair of auxiliary supports when planing long boards, but I generally use supports when running long stock through any thicknessing planer. Using the depth adjustment knob, control the bite of your blades by raising or lowering the movable front sole plate (or shoe”).
It is odd that an outfit that seems to specialize in gas motors and law-care gear and the like would also sell Ryobi power tool parts, but what the heck, who cares. Hand planing simply takes too long and your handheld power planer is producing inconsistent results. Avoid overreaching at the end of a pass; the front shoe will drop off the wood and let the blades take an uneven bite off the end of the wood (called snipe”). One negative to the Ryboi planer is the lack of an extension table, requiring separate outboard supports for planing longer boards. The AP1300 has more features than the AP13 and, naturally, a higher price tag as well.
The blades are still working well for me, all though the measurement gauge on the planer is not as accurate as it once was. The RIDGID 13 in. Planer Blade is designed to fit RIDGID 13 in. planer models R4330, TP1300LS and AP1301. Change blades before they get so dull that they create smoke or fine powder as you plow through the work. The design of the tapered safety wedge means that the blades cannot fly out even if they become loose, so do not go mad with the tightening pressure. Apart from changing the blades when they become dull or nicked, their isn’t a whole lot of maintenance that needs to be carried out to keep the AP13 in tip-top shape.
Results were good and any light slipping under the rule was most often the result of cranky grain rather than any trough or gouge caused by the planer itself. Dimar offers a full selection of Corrugated Back Knives, Thin Planer Knives, Portable Electric Planer Knives (for brands such as Black and Decker, Dewalt, Delta, Hitachi, King, Makita, Ryobi and Skil), Carbide Replaceable Insert Knives and Tersa, Centrolock & Terminus knives.
But yeah, I know what you mean about the blades, I have a older Ryobi that I had to replace blades in also and was shocked at the price. Tungsten Carbon planer blades to fit Makita, Hitachi and Ryobi planers and many other popular brands of 82mm electric planer such as Black Decker, Aichi and Skil. Browse our collection of planer diagrams and schematics for Delta Planers , Rockwell Planers , Ryobi Planers , and more.
I’m assuming that the price is for 1 set of 2 blades but a call to them would clarify that. I did not use the cheezy Ryobi allen wrench (which some have said stripped out easily), but instead used a premium allen tip mounted in an impact wrench. All the manuals I check on line had the same part number as my replacement part # is ac8630. I phoned Ryobi parts today to get a quote (and maybe even purchase) and they said that the two-blade set was $41.
A). Like a jointer, the planer has blades mounted on a cutter head or drum that spins at 20,000 rpm, removing wood equal to the difference in elevation between the front and rear shoes. He was also quite clear that the two Ridgid planer blade sets (for the R4330 and the older TP1300) are NOT interchangeable. I was certain that the TP blades were thicker and wider than the admittedly rather thin and narrow AP blades.
As a matter of fact, I was a bit pissed at Home Depot (my local Corning-area store) as they totally denied any knowledge of the new R4330’s existance or any idea when they might get one in. My concern of course was for buying the best machine possible and I would have liked to at least see the new model. Set the blades a touch higher than the outfeed table and you will get a positive feel to the cut and this also allows for the blades to wear a bit. If you make your final pass at the minimum depth of cut, then 2 blades will produce a nice finish.
Ensure this no-gap fit by carefully shaving to the wall scribe mark and angling the planer slightly to cut more wood off the backside of the board than is cut off the front. I don’t know how much do new blades run, but $16 seems kinda steep to me. If we were talking a 24 or 36 inch planer I could see it then. I’ve had my planer for 4 years now after finding it on Craigslist and it works well.