Installing Balcony Railings

Your staircase plays an important role in your home — both as a design statement and a way to move from floor to floor. After meeting and reviewing with him, I asked him when he would have time to install it, Roger stated that they were very busy, but that I would be able to do the project. Obviously the best fixing would be to lap it over an existing floor joist but if you have a concrete floor obviously there isnt one. The head of the lag is placed into the keyhole, then the post is tapped with a hammer and piece of wood (to protect the post) into place.

Today’s HouseCall in St. Paul, Minnesota has me helping Steve and Stacy Hect replace their old wrought iron stair railing. Proper use of the level will help you make sure the post is as vertical as you can get it. With your drills and screws, secure the post to the floor. Your post should be secured and look great at this point, so you are done installing the newel post.

The house is about 60 or 70 years old, and the post is made of carved wood that is about 4 inches square at the base. You will find that the best way to tighten the nut is to use the special wrench that came with your wood stair railing kit. Finally, miter the moulding around the bottom of the post to cover the angle brackets. With your power drill screw bit, secure the handrail to the newel posts by drilling screws into the brass knee plate, to the end of the rail’s underside, and into the newel post.

I hope this was helpful to anyone trying to do the same thing – all newel posts are different so there isn’t always a clear solution. Newel posts at the bottom and top of the stairs will be the hardest to tighten. Cover those screw heads with the baseboard you have wrapped around the bottom of the newel post. The existing newel post in this project was made of four boards assembled into long box shape.

This usually involves removing the old handrails, base-rails and spindles if there are any (sometimes the balustrade is just a wall) and cutting off the old newel posts, before installing some brand new stair parts. This method is a little more secure than the previous but has a very similar finished look with the moulding at the bottom of the post where it meets the finished floor or shoe plate.

Some spindles appear square at the base, but are actually held in place by a dowel extending into a hole in the stair tread beneath the spindle. That’s when Roger introduced me to his new patented Spring-Bolt Fastener for joining the many pieces required to assemble a stair case rail. Bracing is placed between floor joists located proximate the intended location of the newel post, and the lower end of the newel post is secured to the bracing.

After that is just a heavy oversized plate that screws to the newel then to the floor. The machine threaded end fits into a hole you drill into the bottom of the post. Using a jig or a portable drill press attachment, make sure that you drill a perfectly straight hole into the newel post. A lag is then predrilled and threaded into the post with the head sticking out. It was going to be $900 for two new craftsman style newel posts and square ballisters.

The new post has a large dowel left on the bottom when it’s turned so all you do is drill a hole in the base to take it. I’ve got a 32mm Auger bit for drilling the dowels on 70mm posts and a 50mm Forstner bit for larger (80/90mm) newel posts. Here’s one I’ve seen used… Build the newel post as a hollow box without a bottom. This is something you can check before you cut off the old post and try to compensate a little when drilling so the new post is closer to level, but there’s rarely much in it. In one form of the invention, an inverted u-shaped tie bar assembly has a horizontal tie bar located in an opening in the bottom portion of the newel post.

Next place the post in position with the attached angle brackets, predrill and screw these into the subfloor (again be sure that you have adequate backing in the floor and that there is no risk of hitting electrical or plumbing lines). All right, Stacy, you want to grab that newel post there and we’re going to get this ready to attach to the floor. You simply type in the name of the artist or song title in the search box provided, then we will look it up for you.

Fix all bottom baluster brackets to the baserail using 30mm No. 6 screws and finally secure the top baluster brackets to the underside of the landing handrail using 30mm No. 6 screws checking for vertical with a spirit level. You can line the inner bottom of the newel with some thickness of plywood as might be needed to fill the space if your inner post is smaller than the inside dimension of the box newell. Use a center finder attachment for your square to mark the dead center point on the bottom of the newel post. Save yourself time and effort with this easy to use Stair Handrail to Newel Post Fixing Kit. Say 75 into the newel (and a 12mm one into the string as well if it is possible) and say min.

Of course you are correct…the builders near me use fairly generic pre-made newel and mid posts that from the look of things are merely secured to the floor for the midposts and to the floor and perhaps a few inches of the wall for newels. If the newel posts are not securely fastened, the entire handrail system will shake. The Stair Handrail Newel Post Connector / Bolt Angle Top & Bottom is designed for attaching handrail between two fixed newel posts. These holes are where the screws will go through to attach it to the bottom of the stair post and the floor.

Now you notice that the newel post and the railing are in oak, ’cause you guys have got a lot of oak in the house and I thought that would be nice. When you make your newel post, leave the center open and feed threaded rod up the length of the newel. As the lag bolt slides down the tapered slot in the Keylock plate the post will tighten. Newel posts at the top, bottom, and balconies of a staircase often have long, thick dowel pins at the bottom of each post. In many cases you may want to install a base plate which is wider than the bottom rail.

The present invention pertains to a newel post assembly to locate a newel post at any desired or necessary location in a sturdy and secure manner. The majority of the stairs I built, the posts were secured to the framing under the floor. Installation: The system is intended for use with Western Spindle’s Porch Newels , which have a shelf milled into the top of the post that accepts the channel (see above picture). I am impressed with the holding strength and stability of LJ 3009 we use a dap of pl under the post just incase.

This allows you to set the newel post down over the lag and tighten it down with the washer and nut. Holes 36 are thus orientated whereby installation of the newel post 33 with respect to the holes 36 can be accomplished with a surface of the newel post 33 flush with the edge 34A, of plate 34 permitting mounting of the newel post 33 with one side flush to the vertical surface. A first set of holes is provided for assembly of the newel post anchor plate to the bottom or foot of the newel post. Cut these to the angle of your stairs and install them before each glass panel.

I am considering having a go myself but am not sure how to fix the bottom newel post as there is nothing to secure it to. there is no trace at all of the old post and the floor has had a recent concrete pour. Locate the center of where your newel post will be installed on the floor, and pre-drill all holes (Figure A). Important: When drilling post, drill 1-1/2″ hole first. The balusters will need to be cut so that when the handrail is installed, the height of the railing is 34-inches of the landing and 30-inches on the tread. This system consists of a floor plate, threaded rod, channel for the top of the newel, and required hardware.