This is a great putty – if used for the purpose for which it was designed. These products restore rotted, severely damaged windows, columns, frames, broken furniture, structural and decorative wood components. We wanted to buy these nifty painting pyramids , but with the sheer amount we would have needed, it would have cost like $200. Once you’ve stripped and prepared your surfaces properly, covered your floor in dust sheets and applied an undercoat, it’s time to pick your favourite paint shades or wallpaper designs and really get creative. If the existing paintwork is in a poor condition with several cracks and large flaking areas, the best result will be achieved by stripping the paint off back to the bare wood.
Use sandpaper or a handheld sander to buff away any rough edges and splinters surrounding the damaged wood. To prevent the bleeding some people approach this problem by using multiple (meaning many!!!!) coats of a serious excellent covering primer (adding more expense to their project.) And keep in mind- that primer is NOT needed with Chalk Paint Decorative Paint by Annie Sloan products! There are a few various types of wood filler, so if you are planning to stain or paint over the filler once you apply it to the damaged wood, ensure that it is the proper type for staining.
You may bring any of the paint colour chip numbers to your local Dulux Paints store to find the exact colour that you are looking for. Upon drying, CPES hardens within the pores of the wood helping to reinforce and strengthen the surrounding wood fibers. The product on the following link is the best product DIY Doctor has found in over 30 years of decorating, for stripping paint. Perfect – the crew that installed my new hardwood floor used putty to cover the nail holes and other imperfections, but they missed a lot of them, plus they didn’t make any effort to match the color, just used the closest one.
If the area is painted you can’t use silicone as paint will not go over it. Some caulk does crack as it dries. To resolve the problem, scrape back the blistered paint until you have a firm edge, feather lightly with abrasive paper and dust off. The top coat of gloss or vinyl satin can now be applied, taking care to check over completed areas to remove drips and paint build-ups.
If your paneling is solid wood made from individual, tongue-and-groove or V-groove boards, don’t try filling in the grooves, since it will tend to crack and fall out as the wood shrinks and expands with the seasons. I have had problems with large wood putty plugs that dry with indentations or with cracks and needed to go back for second or third applications to get them smooth and full. They’re perfect for when we have a hole, a gap, or a knot that’s too large or deep for the soft non-hardening filler.
When you sand it down, there should be almost no wood filler showing at the end – this is how you’ll know it’s done its job. Anyway, after two coats of ASCP and three coats of primer, you can vaguely see knots and a bit of wood grain coming through, therefore have learned shellac is what I need to use. I’ve noticed the nasty acrylic gloss paint I used on that window before I knew any better is cracking badly (on sound wood) after 2 years. Position a hand-held bulb (at least 60 watts) so it shines across (rakes) the wood surface to detect loose paint, rough edges and other blemishes in the surface to determine what needs to be filled.
As the name suggests, stainable wood fillers are receptive to staining so that once you’ve applied the product, you can stain over it to ensure the repaired section matches the rest of the piece that you’re fixing. To prepare, scrape back areas of flaking or blistering paint to a firm edge and rub down to feather edges using an abrasive paper. This means that you most likely won’t have to do a second round of wood filler, because you are going above and beyond with this first coat, filling all possible spaces. Like any good paint job, the right prep is essential and that means taking the time to remove all doors and hardware.
Crawford’s Natural Blend Painter’s Putty is a ready-to-use, multipurpose painter’s putty for use on old and new wood – inside or out. Specks of dust, pet hair and flying insects can all conspire to ruin the best-applied paint. You will have a difference in the layers where you scraped away the loose lead paint. If it powders like a cheap flat paint would then it is not likely necessary to re-prime. We use patch compounds on flat surfaces and apply them with a flexible putty knife.
Pull the scraper in the direction of the wood grain, and use finesse and elbow grease to rake” the paint away but not gouge the wood. Once it’s dry, use your medium grit sandpaper (I used 180) to sand the filler level with the surrounding veneer. Filler gels work by mixing sanding dust, preferably from the wood being sanded and repaired, with a clear gel that binds the dust together. To give solid wood paneling a new look, either lightly sand and paint the wood or remove the boards and replace with drywall.
But if the project is going to be painted, then we use a hardening filler like Wood Dough (DAP) or Plastic Wood (Boyle-Midway). Below is the same table after one coat of Zinsser Spray Shellac and a coat of Old White- which is a paint that does not require a primer to stick to the shellac. To keep the filler from cracking in middle and sinking in, don’t try to fill large space at one application.
On chairs it will be round the bottom of legs on the back and end of the arms, you get my drift… take a candle, rub it on the parts where the paint should be distressed (the point is to stop the paint adhering fully to these parts) commit to memory or draw a sketch of where you’ve rubbed the wax. Let filler cure overnight and sand the excess with medium grit sand paper before applying desired finish. It’s oil based and takes forever to dry and hardly any painter would actually wait for it to dry before painting over it. Of course it doesn’t last long.
My past experience of stripping paint is it just creates a mess and you end up buying new after wasting hours. Thank God someone still makes WOOD PUTTY that is a putty that is a non-drying flexible putty, that stays soft like putty, and can be smeared into gaps like a soft flexible putty. Take Osmo Wood Filler , which comes in a wide variety of attractive colours designed to match woods like antique oak, beech, cherry, ebony, pine, spruce and even exotica like jatoba wood. Preparation is key to a good finish with any paint product, but with gloss you’ll get noticeably better results if you spend a little extra time preparing the surface.
Learn how to prepare bare wood and woodwork for painting and get our painting tricks of the trade. This miracle in can …or quart” also works great when dealing with knotty pine or if painting kitchen cabinets that were manufactured and installed in the 1980’s or 1990’s that have that yellow maple look to them or if you are painting a red stained piece and want it to be white. I only use Sherwin Williams on walls, and I’ve only used General Finishes a couple of times but found it to be an incredibly inferior product for painting furniture.
As far as applying the spray lacquer you have to make sure the paint does not run or dribble. Wood filler can be made from glue and sawdust and minute amounts of stain to match the wood finish you’re trying to fill and sands nicely. You don’t need to sand down to bare wood; just scuff up the surface thoroughly with 100 to 150 grit sandpaper. We sprayed the cabinets outside prior to using Chalk Paint Decorative Paint by Annie Sloan. Is a full service painting company serving the San Francisco Bay Area since 1988.
When done using spray paint or a spray shellac- go outside and holding the can, flip it upside down and spray. Namely, it works well to fill in holes and repair scratched wood, or smooth out the natural grain of wood before painting or staining. Whether you’re repainting painted wood or painting wood that’s been stained and varnished, the steps and tips we show here apply to any woodwork—door, window or trim. Some paneling actually consists of a vinyl print that simulates the look of wood.