If this is your first visit, be sure to check out the FAQ by clicking the link above. The major problem I had with the plane is that adjusting depth accurately while maintaining the chisel square to the body is very difficult. Try it out, gone too far, the shaving is too heavy, then tap again, this time at the back of the body of the plane. The toolmakers at Veritas have earned my respect: they are clever, innovative, focused on quality, and put a lot of thought into making their tools easier to use. As for the name PM-V11….blimey it sounds more like a motorbike than a plane blade…..why can’t they personalize the name of blades and make them a little more human…..how about The Veritas Victor….
But a chisel plane like the LN that’s too wide to fit in most dados seems to squander most of that utility. Wall holder for Veritas Cabinetmaker’s Trimming Plane by sprior is licensed under the Creative Commons – Attribution – Non-Commercial license. When the wheel is dressed with the Veritas blade honing compound, the edge obtained is comparable to most razor blades.
The less expensive of two guides offered by Canadabased Lee Valley Tools — the Veritas Precision Sharpening System — consists of two components: a honing guide and an angle-setting jig. If you get an old Stanley and do the tune up yourself, you might also want to consider the plane iron upgrade from Lee Valley or IBC irons. PROS: The guide is very inexpensive and holds a wide variety of tools, including very short palm plane irons and spokeshave blades. My Eclipse style doesn’t hold my chisels square and my Veritas had slippage issues.
Axminster has a new 778-type rebate plane for £31.98. The fence is handy and far better than the Stanley 78. Downside is that about half of sizes of my plane blades and chisels do not fit securely. Compared with the A2 iron that I am used to in this plane the edge lasted considerably longer, it went twice over my usual sharpening stops and still had a good enough edge to continue. If you get that LN chisel plane, you’ll certainly have a beautiful and well-made tool, and will no doubt support my state’s economy. The important things about a block plane are the low angle that the blade is set in the body and the mouth.
Thanks for the tips on quick sharpening, I always find myself in the middle of using a chisel and I HATE having to stop, but this seems like a method I could have ready to go. By today’s standards of what a shoulder plane is I consider it to be a very different beast from a rabbet plane. Unless all you do all day every day is use a chisel plane, I don’t think you will wear out the Veritas’ blade.
Our chisel range includes: firmer chisels, paring chisels, bevel edge chisels, gouges, corner, mortice chisels and other specialist chisels by makers such as Henry Taylor Tools, Robert Sorby, Ashley Iles and Crown Tools. Several of you have also commented on my choice of plane size, and you’ve certainly made me grateful that I’ve not ordered anything just yet, and I would like to dig deeper into planes and will start a new thread on that topic.
An older Stanley #93 can be tuned to work very well and it can be disassembled into a chisel plane, so you get two planes in one. This pushed me to set aside the shoulder plane and adopt a rabbet block plane for this work. So if these stones can sharpen a knife, they should be able to sharpen a chisel too. The Veritas doesn’t appear to handle the thickness of the mortise chisel either. In certain cases (such as with carving tools), a rounded bevel may be desirable, but with chisels and plane blades, it is best to maintain a predetermined bevel angle.
Now my tools are a mix of western and Japanese and I am currently working with a Japanese blacksmith to develop a lighter western style chisel but with the very hard sharp cutting edge that some Japanese chisel makers can provide. And these systems are certainly capable of sharpening your chisels and plane blades. I was also able use it instead of a chisel for random workshop tasks and this impressed me. It is not, in my opinion, an essential tool.
I would note that, at least on some honing guides, they list the distance the chisel should stick out from the front to achieve a certain angle. Never used stones or sharpened a chisel in my life except for that time with the bench grinder ( brrr… brrr… ) which totally destroyed the temper on the steel BTW. It must provide a mechanism for positioning a plane blade to protrude through an opening (the mouth”) in a planar registration surface, called the sole,” for contact with the workpiece. I do not take a lot of joy in it, other than enjoying the use of a freshly sharpened chisel or plane iron.
The guide offers two different tool clamping positions: A pair of raised lips atop the guide hold plane blades or chisels up to 3″ wide; a lower V-groove holds thin tools from very narrow up to about 1-3⁄4″ wide. A knurled wheel on the Veritas Precision honing guide resets its eccentric roller to a higher angle for honing a secondary bevel. Personally, if I owned it, I would use it with a chisel I cut off at the top of the blade. CONS: When honing wide plane blades (2-1⁄2″ or so), the guide’s wheels end up so far apart that the guide only works on honing plates or very wide bench stones. Your chisel or blade is now ready for grinding (assuming you have the table set correctly).
In light of 1 and 2, If you happen to have an extra $100 in your budget, it may be wise to buy a second BODY-ONLY, fit it with the chisel jaws, and use it for narrower blades. Cutting depth on a shoulder plane is adjusted by a screw feed mechanism (Lie-Nielsen, Veritas) or by tapping (Japanese, Gordon). That brings me right back to the LN/Veritas offerings and once again I am drawn into the Veritas.
You may be able to reset your work piece after the first groove is finished, and using the plow plane along the edge of the work piece, plow a groove along this outside edge until the two grooves meet in the middle and you can remove the rectangular waste. I just can’t get it to work for me. My newest and favorite is the Veritas bevel up block plane. Since I plane a lot my one tool that never gathers dust are my sharpening stones. I got a copy of Hack’s plane book yesterday and found the LN in it. He doesn’t seem to think it’s a frequently used tool.
It can be done that way on a chisel, and some westerners do it that way, but it’s not the way they do it in Japan, and it won’t work on a plane blade where the hollow is much deeper. So I found myself reaching for a chisel to pare the narrow shoulders inline with the long shoulders done with the shoulder plane. And the casting had to be reworked slightly so that the chisel would seat properly.
Basically, the answer is that the appropriate grinding and honing angles for any kind of plane depend on the quality of the steel. This exchange is justified however, because a chisel plane gives you the capability of cutting right up to any sort of immovable barrier (the terminal wall(s) of a stopped dado, for instance) that would preclude the use of an ordinary plane. The Veritas bevel gauge has seven individual slots that will measure the most commonly used angles from 15° to 45° in 5° increments. It IS a good chisel…..Ive got a set of their small chisels and theyre extremely handy and well made.
Since then I have purchased several more jigs for it so it will do more than basic knife, chisel, plane sharpening. Despite the long history of bench plane development, these considerations leave room for further improvement of such planes. A chisel stroked through at least two grits, or three if you’re fussy, and back to work in less than 30 seconds. Taking a look at the two, the knob on the LN is more upright and possibly less comfortable than the Veritas knob that is cantered to fit in your palm. But again, I have used them all, except the smallest wooden chisel plane near the middle of the picture.
Then with a 6 or 10 inch grinder put a curve into the bevel of the chisel until it reaches the tip. When woodworking tool manufacturers are selling chisels that are bent like steel bananas, selling planes that are nowhere near flat and plane irons that cannot be properly sharpened. I have already decided to sell my medium shoulder plane and I’m on the fence about the large model. In the interests of full disclosure, I don’t own either a chisel plane or a bullnose.
The Veritas plane, on the other hand, has received rave reviews, incorporates some genuine design improvements, and is machined to very fine tolerances. LN’s are better machined Stanleys, and nice to look at. Veritas redesigns the tool to work better/easier, but they typically don’t look as nice. We are fed up of seeing people believe it is their fault that they cannot plane or chisel or scribe when it is the manufacturer at fault. I mostly envision using it to trim/clean up tenon cheeks/shoulders, and I suppose most of the shoulder plane would be hanging out in free space for this use.