DIY interior door projects mean that your interior doors don’t have to be boring. The bottom section of the door was finished by fitting a brace from the bottom corner on the hinge side to the top corner on the other side, which was secured with oval nails driven through the boarding. In this case, or course, the door will only be exposed to the weather on the one face, so I settled for painting the tongues and grooves and backs of the boards, together with the parts of the stiles and rails that come into contact with them (I also cheated a little by letting the paint dry overnight). If you were building a traditional batten door you would want to use the clinch-nail method.
The strong classical look of a recessed panel door will never date and the simple elegant style will complement any house. Just like how we lined the dock cleat handles up with the grove between the boards, so even though one door has the extra 1/4″ length of the tongue, the handles visually appear equidistant from the edges of the doors. Dry fit all of the tongue and groove slats together before you start in with the glue.
To determine the length of the strips I assemble the door frame and measure to the bottom of the groves in the rails. Assemble the door and put it in clamps and squeeze the joints closed but don’t get carried away with the pressure. We are looking for the plywood to slip into the groove easily but without a bunch of side-to-side play. At this point you are ready to hang your plank door that was made with love and tender care.
The tongue and groove boarding on the face of the Alyn doors is jointed into both the top rails/heads and bottom rail of the doors – we don’t stop there though as the boarding is also jointed into the stiles (vertical uprights) of the doors! Utility Room Doors – Where soundproofing is a concern, such as with laundry and utility rooms, our tongue & groove doors are ideal. Open the barn doors for an entertainment center and close them for a book shelf – Love!
Size the panel as shown in the drawing so that there will be 1/8 in. of clearance space around the panel edges after the door is assembled. This kind of a door is secured using battens that are nailed or fastened with screws in a crosswise manner. It’s best to use a test piece at this point to fine tune the fence spacing until you get an appropriate size groove. Consider our pegged, mortise and tenon cabinet doors fitted with tongue & groove.
Each board should also be glued and nailed to that part of the underlying frame that it crosses, using stainless steel finishing nails driven through the tongue of each board, diagonally. We measured our door opening and then cut the boards to fit with a few inch over hang on either side. This allows space for the planking to sail past them while still remaining within the profile of the door. Then test the plywood into the groove again and make adjustments as needed to get the right fit.
When the Pocket Pro is set at the one inch setting the screw will bypass the tongue and get a full bite in the grooved section, producing a much stronger joint. Usually, the ledges would be around 24mm or so shorter than the width of the door, so the boards would shoot over the ledges by around 12mm on each side (this is if the door is closing within a rebated frame, otherwise, the ledges can be full width). Small gaps could potentially appear between the boards, but these would be hidden due to the tongue and grooves. All our doors are fitted with toughened Planitherm double glazed units as standard.
The door then moves on to finish sanding where it is brought to its final thickness, and the outside profile is added if required. Heavier external flush doors will include a central horizontal rail to allow a letter box to be included, and the remainder of the core may be filled with hardwood blocks, particleboard or fibreboard. Whether you do it yourself or have a professional do the job, real wood exterior doors are practical, effective and beautiful. Not sure of the question, but simple battens on the back of tongue and groove doors work.
If you’re looking for a door without a solid bottom rail then check out our Clwyd garage doors still based on a through, wedged morticed and tenon jointed frame! You can make the holes a little larger than the diameter of the 1/2-inch threaded rods, but take care to place them exactly in line with the pencil marks. Because the doors are already dry assembled I just remove one style and slide the panel in place.
We have decided to make things very complicated for ourselves in the way we are going to assemble all of our cherry doors, cabinets, and pretty much everything made from cherry. The quintessential traits of natural wood and custom styled hardware lend a unique perspective on your otherwise run of the mill entry doors. I will use it to create tongue and groove joinery for putting together boards to create a whole piece.
The Island unit features slide away tray storage on one side with tongue and grove panelling most of the way round. The DR99036 makes tongue and groove joints from a 7/32” tongue up to a 3/8” tongue, so this will be perfect for ¾” flooring. Other parts include a site-made Z-brace, lag screws (which we painted), and a fruitwood stain we used to mimic assembly details of a door you’d find on an actual bar. And those doors were built with tongue and groove construction using my table saw They were actually my first real attempt at tongue and groove joinery and they turned out great. Phase 2” was to make replacement cabinet doors for her kitchen and laundry area.