How To Install Crown Moulding At The Home Depot

Crown moulding , also known as ceiling trim, can transform the rooms of your home. I have thought about adding crown to my house, but it would have to go all the way down a hallway, over the stairs (like yours did… probably a similar designed split entry ranch) but it would also have to go into the kitchen, which includes cabinets with open space above them, not sure how it would look if the crown was there, its only about a foot tall.

I had given a couple of token efforts to cut the crown molding on my own to get the angles right and it just wasn’t coming together for me. But that was before I got serious about it and watched a couple of great videos (provided below) that seemed to make it all click” for me. Personally, I’m a visual learner and seeing it done — and then doing it — is much more helpful for me than reading about it.

And, it’s also not how frequent crown installers do it. But for me, I install it sometimes, so I’ve developed some nearly dummy-proof double checks to keep me accurate and from having to reinvent the wheel every time a crown job pops up. If there’s one thing to take away from this, it’s that crown is about being accurate throughout the whole process, from tools to nailing.

When looking at the crown molding in the position that it will be installed, it will always look like this. Hook a tape measure over the end of the molding and mark the other end with a thin pencil mark. Smooth out any caulk that squeezes from between the two pieces of molding before it has time to set. Size the blocks to allow a 1/4-inch gap between the block and the back of the crown. Included are the angle setting for a compound miter saw and step-by-step procedure for hanging the molding.

Scarf joints have nothing to do with keeping you warm in the winter, but they will help your molding look nice. The spring angle needs to be maintained during crown moulding installation to ensure a proper fit at the corners of the room. Turn the molding upside down and slide it into the miter saw with the top of the molding along the base of the saw and the bottom against the fence” of the saw.

The first cut to make is a straight 90 degree angle on the first of the two pieces of crown mold. Place the crown into the saw upside down as described above and make a 45 degree face cut and 45 degree inside cut so that the long point of the face cut is at your mark (whew). PVC molding can be used in kitchens and bathrooms in which moisture may be an issue. Then, I cut a compound-angle miter into the end of the mating length of crown (1). To make miter cuts for copes and outside corners, you have to lean the crown molding—tilted at exactly the correct angle—against the saw’s fence (Photo 11).

The bottom of the crown is next to the fence and the top will be cut so it is 0 inches long (makes a point). When looking at the crown moulding like it will be installed, the pointed ends will always be the bottom of the crown molding (next to the wall) and you will be able to see the saw cut surface. Plan to make the union over a framing member to allow for nailing and choose two pieces of molding that are bit longer than you need to allow for cutting the corners after the scarf joint is made. Because crown molding gives a room instant appeal and elegant sophistication, it increases the likelihood of a better purchase offer.