This site is for individuals to offer/ask for advice on home improvement projects. Hobbes, if there’s already a single 110v circuit to the garage and you can leave it in, I’d use that for the lights instead of wiring them into the new sub panel. Back in the garage, mount the outlet box, attach the 12/3 wire to the 220 female outlet, mount the outlet, turn the power back on and test with a multimeter. This can be costly depending on where the outlet needs to go, and it’s not something that you should try doing on your own. This is the standard outlet that most L2 plug-in EVSEs are using including Siemens, Leviton, Blink, etc.
When I installed a subpanel in the garage, I ran 4 wires (green, white, redx2) for the circuit that was for my DC. At the time, I had a 110V DC but knew I’d likely get a 220V DC someday. If your budget will stretch, buy the longest cord possible to give yourself room to charge while parked in various places in the garage and in the driveway. Also connected to this ground bus are the ground (bare) wire from all circuits going out from the panel (both 110v and 220v), and the neutral wire from 110v runs only.
If outlets are added as part of a larger project, such as upgrading an electrical panel or wiring, the cost per outlet could be on the lower end of the scale; if an electrician comes in just to add one outlet, the minimum charge might be higher than the range estimated above. You can dig the trench yourself to code and install the wire, new panel, new breaker in the house and new breakers in the garage.
If you’re planning on expanding your home, or adding in more high-powered appliances you’ll likely need to add some additional 220-volt outlets to your home. We assume this is because you want to run computers or devices with a 220v power supply, which can be more efficient (and then go to the laundromat, I guess…) – under 5A per plug (not for plugging in four arc-welders.) The inside MUST be wired for each plug to deliver full 30A service – the breaker must blow before wires inside melt. A 110 since on one blade using 110v to neutral; 220v spans both legs and takes 2 blades.
What I was referring to in my post was running the circuit from outlet to outlet, but splicing the wires to a pair of pigtails in the box, and connecting only the pigtails to the actual receptacle. The tricky part is snaking the wire out of the panel and throughout the the panel is located in the garage in close proximity to the laundry room,then getting the circuit over there will be easy. There’s no Common block only Ground, so I ran #8, 3 wires, Red, Black and green to the break Room and to a new Outlet.
He replaced and upgraded our old Federal Pacific electrical panel, changed out and add our new outlets and most importantly, ran the underground line and wired up my husband’s workshop. I know you said you only wanted to wire the comptressor (220v), but I believe you’ll find that you wished you put a neutral in there for more 120v circuits. You can use a 220V outlet as an input to power your whole house from a generator if you’re interested.
Part of the issue in my install is they need to put down a new underhouse and underground conduit that will accomodate the new 125A breaker box in the detached garage. The only way to truly find out is to have an electrician come to your home, see where you want the outlet installed and give you a quote on the project. These are at the higher end of the scale, or it’s about $60-$125 to replace an existing standard outlet with a GFCI receptacle.
The good news is that you will likely be able to add all the outlets that you need for any appliances you want to have put in your home. The whole point behind a 220 outlet is that you need to plug something into it that needs more power than you can get from a 110 outlet. Cheaper to just add a Nema 14-50 plug off right below the roadster HPC on the same circut and use one or the other (but not both at the same time).
Lots of guys run hobby woodworking, metalworking, or welding shops off of a 60 amp branch circuit with a secondary distribution box in the garage to provide several 220v and 110v circuits. I think what I’m going to do is mock up what I plan to have in my garage (present and future wishful state) and have the Electrician come up with his suggestion and see how closes it mirrors what is suggested here. That means if your outlet is 50 feet away from the box you’ll be spending between $200 and $300 on just the wire depending on pricing.
It would be cheap to add a dedicated circuit if so. not a hard DIY project or very expensive if you hire an electrician. Second, if you put a sub panel in the garage 2011 code states for a 220/120 panel you must have two hots, one neutral and one ground, you must also drive a ground rod at the sub panel and the the ground must be isolated from the neutral.
Determining the overall cost of adding a 220V outlet to your home is difficult to do and depends on a bunch of factors. One was 110V to supply electricity my workbenches, the other was 220V for the press. There is a 15 amp breaker which supplies the garage outlets and one outlet in the bathroom (WIN). The panel you describe in the garage probably does not have the 240 volts you need. The only reason I could see not having 220v is that the service box may not have the capacity.
So, I’m trying to figure out what kind of power the freezer, washer (says 6 amps on the plug), and garage door opener (5A) require. I have been assuming the 110v outlet would be fine for me anyway, since my normal daily driving is under 50 miles and there is a SEMAcharge station at work. If an energizer fails within 2 years from the purchase, Premier will replace the module/unit at our cost (unless the reason for its failure is customer abuse or neglect).
I try to pick up a new skill when the opportunity arises, but it seems clear from the opinions voiced here (and elsewhere) that 220v electrical work is beyond my comfort level. The 110v microwave plugged into the top of the 220v oven using a normal 110 volt plug. When everything is lined up, strip away the insulation at the end of the cable and connect it to your new outlet. The price to do this shouldn’t be bad, and shouldn’t tip the average cost of an electrician up by much. So if there is 12 gauge there now, you can go with a 20 amp breaker and outlet.
I’m assuming you want to add something to your existing panel like a circuit for a hot tub or pool, etc. The dryer is only 10ft away from where I would want the outlet at in the garage and it would save me $100 by not having to run another dedicated line out there. A powerful 220v electric fence energizer used to keep in cattle, sheep, goats, horses, poultry and guard dogs. Personal I like conduit, it looks industrial, it is easier than running lines in the wall, and the cost is not that much more.
Such plug-in ESVEs are generally limited to indoor garage installations protected from the weather, though. If you have a breaker box there already, then you probably have the room to add a 220V outlet. If you ask you local building or electrical supply depot for a dual 30 amp breaker for use in a 220v dryer circuit for this model/make breaker panel, they will be able to pick out the correct breaker for you.
You will probably find that these are the most used locations for work both inside and outside the garage. Through the use of new chargers, 220v outlets are now able to charge the vehicles that you have, and allow you to charge wherever you are that there is an outlet available. To minimise down time wire up your box and outlet and string your wire to your panel making sure it is anchored with staples/holes as required. BTW – I did a long run so that I could mount the outlet at the side of the garage door. I put a single cover for a 220V socket on the other cover and used the screws to screw the covers together.
If allowed, and depending on whether your disconnect/main breaker box has multiple feed lugs or they can legally be added, can typically cost in $300-600 range to get second main lead connection from main breaker/disconnect/meter base to a new panel, plus 220V paired breakers there. It looks like the Schnieder is designed for hard wiring but if you want to got with plug-in, install a NEMA 14-50 outlet and buy a range card (such as -40401-4-F.. B002ML70MQ ) to attach to the EVSE.