After a bit of research, I settled on starting with a kit from a local Utah company, Bingham Projects, Inc Their kits contain a manual, DVD of instructions, and all the main parts needed to build a bow lamination press, curing oven, and one bow. After first drawing up a plan he headed down to the shop to cut out the wooden riser (the middle part of a bow). I measure the limbs of the bow by what feels good to me, and also what feels good for the wood. However, at this point I did not want any part to break off or separate when I string that bow up. Note: For a right-handed archer (holding the bow in the left hand) the offset of the handle is on the left. This bow will look sort of like a recurve while unstrung and like a longbows when strung.
Brace/brace height – the distance between the back of the handle and the string in the centre of the bow when the bow is strung. Make the sinew application took like a mosaic, even, and cover the entire back surface of the bow with the sinew glue mixture. Ok, lets get started, first we need base lines, everything comes from these two important lines, this one, I used 36 inches as a base line, the form ply is longer, but 36 inches is the base line. Lay the assembly into the wooden block and then clamp at the center and fasten the rest of the surfaces with rubber loops to ensure that the glass fibers take the shape of the bow.
Bows were traditionally made of wood, and you can still find some that are made of wood today. Modern hunting bows are compound bows with a pulley attached to each end of the arms. If you want to go further, you can add a reflex to your bow by simply bending the back of the bow at the center. The bow form was waxed and covered with plastic held by tape for easy bow removal and protecting the form from the glue. You will need to mount the riser which is the initial step towards making your bow.
I’ve got quite a lot of bubble problems, it may be due to the upper and lower form gap too wide 1.8-2inch, or because I should use thicker pressure strip, or the recurve of the design is too extreme…I’m not sure, but I pumped in 65PSI into the hose for sure, and put evrything in the oven for 5hrs at 55degrees celcius. One is to prevent splinters of wood from lifting off the bow due to tension forces. I used a band-saw to rough-cut the form and a sander to take it right to the line.
I will be updating this article whenever I run into a new way of building a recurve bow, so if this is something that really interests you please do check back often! You are going to want to use a finger sling or wrist sling rather than a bow sling as you can learn a great deal from the bow’s reaction after the release. In my opinion, the advice on grip shape is point on: most compound archers shoot with a low wrist grip, often off of the riser itself either by the design of the bow or by removing the grip. I have always made my own forms and do not copy or make patterns from other peoples’ bows.
Whether it’s the best model for beginners, or the top option on a budget, we’re confident that through comparing features, specs, and prices, as well as consulting all the reviews we could find from professional and amateur archers alike, that we’ve found the absolute best bows on the market today. I will also cover how to make various arrows to fit the bows you have made, and describe how to fine tune a bow so that it fits your hunting style and personal touch. After stringing the bow and having Josh draw it a few times, I asked him how the grip felt.
We’ll show you all the big categories, brands, and factors to consider when you’re comparing on our main page, we’ll review three of our favorites, and give you a quick tutorial in shopping for your ideal bow. Before the white man and his tools, the native American painstakingly abraded away and sanded his bows with stone tools or scraped with bone and flint chips. For example, this project bow measures 62.5 inches nock to nock but a 60.5 inch string gave a perfect 6.5 inches of brace.
If that mistake happens, the problem can be rectified by reheating the pipe just at the beginning of the tip recurve and adjusting it to align with the rest of the bow. Once these are glued on, it is time for my most dreaded part of bow building….. all the hand sanding and filling pores…… and more hand sanding, and filling pores, and more hand sanding……. it never flip’n ends if you want a perfect finsih LOL.
What I will be covering are techniques used in making the long term bows that take much time and effort, not to mention an artistic touch, but will out perform store-bought bows because they fit you. While they have been made from a variety of materials in the past, mostly wood, matched fiberglass and carbon limbs are considered to be the best choice. But once your draw weight has stabilised, then the benefits of top level limbs are vast.
Selecting arrows can be quite technical but as a general rule buy arrows designed for a recurve bow approx 2 inches longer than the distance from the back of the handle to string when pulled back to your cheek – your draw length. Now, as for naming the bow, We thought on it for some time and kept coming back to the first post where I explained the the bow was being made with a sort of legacy piece of wood.
As you shape the recurves you will notice a slight dip form in the middle of the pipe which will make for a handy string guide when the bow is braced. I found that the space between the top and bottom section of the form was too close, so I modified the press to allow for a better fit. Many hunters will agree that a great bow can be the difference between a trophy and a near miss. You can see though, the inner 2/3 of the limbs are bending relatively evenly with the handle area being stiff as well.
It’s not the way a real recurve bow looks nor is it Kate Bishop’s but it passes pretty well since I was thinking on the fly at 2 AM. This will give the wood time to set in the new position, and will make for a longer-lasting and more effective bow. So if you are looking at our recurve limb selection and scratching your head, take comfort in the fact that you are not alone.
I bought 16 feet of 1 1/2 inch, 12 feet of 2 inch and 12 feet of 1 3/4 and I still have a couple pieces of each left as they just move from press to press, take down limbs are only 33 inch, longbows are 70 inch and so on. I traced the shape of my homemade finger tab for Josh’s and cut out 3 of them from some medium thickness scrap leather. Perform the bending on a flat surface, such as a workbench top, to ensure that you keep the entire bow on the same plane and to avoid a corkscrew shape. I was able to make a bow that shoots and did not break, but it was a far cry from a masterpiece.
I squeezed a line of glue on the wood and worked it in with my index finger using a circular motion and made sure not to stop long enough to become fused to the bow. To be able to easily see the twist in a limb, i just use arrows clamped to the back of the limbs…. the reason i use the back is the same reason i milled the limb pads flat…. the back is pressed flat against the form during glue up…. but the belly can have a little crown to it so i use the flat side to help with the accuracy of seeing twist. From here on out, I will shape the bow with my Nicholson pattern makers rasp’s.
Visually, the tiller looks pretty even when you’re just comparing the two limbs side by side, the problem is the area where the limb ends and the recurve begins, you can see where it starts bending a lot right there while the inner limbs are hardly bending near the handle. Some native Americans would finish their bow by glueing on a snakeskin to further protect the bow from weather. Some of my instructors get four bow staves out of a 3-inch tree but, once again, I do not trust my second split and usually finish the job with a draw knife.