A good homesteader needs to know at least something about working with wood in whatever situation arises, and keeping a wooden handle in good shape is one of those situations. This is a guessing game as you only have one chance to drive the handle on. There is no removing it for a refit unless it is way to large. Insert the rivets, place the socket on a firm surface, such as a block of 4 x 4 lumber, and dome the rivet head with a ball-peen hammer. Hi, I’m new to this forum – came across this thread when I was looking for help with a milling machine I just acquired. On the second hammer from the right, that round ring wedge is a European style. I have used it on axes, splitting mauls, and sledge hammers quite successfully with both wooden and composite or fiberglass handles.
Striking tool replacement handles made from Tennessee hickory wood, including axe handles, hammer handles, wooden sledge handles, carving tool wooden handles, furniture dimension and wooden furniture squares. I will use a combination of your methods – I will reseat the wedge and if that isn’t enough I’ll soak the hammer in some BLO. WellForce ($45) – This was the most expensive hammer tested and it was also the lightest at one pound, 9 ⅜ ounces. One thing that you’ll see with handle replacements sold in the hardware store: they often have a slot and a shim piece to really pack that sucker in tight. Beech is cheaper, less strong, but is nevertheless very suitable as a tool handle.
V&B (Vaughan) and Sears sell 13.5 inch handles which trim to a 13 inch finished length. My father-in-law used to lift the hammer off the bench and hold it upright, then slam the handle-end onto the bench, then drive the wedge farther in or add another wedge. You can pick the head up and bang it, handle down, against the floor a couple of times to obtain a solid seat. He says it is the continuous cycle of seasonal expansion and contraction that results in the handle shrinking out. I usually only submerge the head of the handle, no use getting your hands greasy or the handle itself slippery! With the development of commerce and the specialization of trades, many different hammer designs evolved.
Awkward handles can cause repetitive stress injury (RSI) to hand and arm joints, and uncontrolled shock waves from repeated impacts can injure nerves and the skeleton. The handles of good chasing hammers look positively spindly in comparison to the handle of any other type of hammer. I’ve also seen them crack and break during aggressive use or a serious overstrike (when the hammer head overshoots the target and the hit lands on the handle). Having survived for thousands of years, it is unlikely that the hammer will disappear from civilization’s toolbox anytime soon. I used files and sandpaper to shave down the handle to a thinner, snappier incarnation.
If you don’t have these, you can easily make a wooden one and you can still use the metal one from the old handle. Located in the Tennessee River Valley – Appalachian Hickory wood is manufactured into sledge, hammer, axe and pick handles by skilled craftsmen. SAFETY PRECAUTIONS: Never allow the hammer’s striking faces to wear down to the point where the hammer housing makes contact with the work surface, as irreparable damage could result.
In areas where one has plenty of room, a long handle with a heavy head (like a sledge hammer) can deliver the maximum amount of energy to the target. A bell-faced hammer is less likely to bend a nail if the nail is struck at an angle. By the time the handle comes loose a couple of times, I give up on the water trick and just replace it. They are usually scarred up or damaged in other areas by the time they come loose. It is not practical to use such a large hammer for all tasks, however, and thus the overall design has been modified repeatedly to achieve the optimum utility in a wide variety of situations.