Wet rot is a very common and much less serious property ‘ailment’ than some of the other afflictions that can set back your building (and your bank balance)! Being a chemist and a physicist, I was able to approach the problem of wood rotting and paint failing scientifically, which no one else in this or any related business ever did; there were and are many people making epoxy products, but none of them had a comparable background and were able to approach the problem by identifying the root causes of wood failure and product failure.
The downsides are cost, which is a lot higher than for untreated wood, size, the blocks tend to come in standard sizes which may or may not suit your particular project, weight, if you want a light knife then you will save weight by using unstabilised wood and giving it an oil finish, smell, filing and sanding, never mind using power tools is like working plastic, it stinks, and finally, the finish can look more plastic like than some people want.
If I were to replace all the natural juice with a plastic hardener(I mean a chemically produced hard material that can be placed inside the grains themselves in a liquid and then become hard), each grain or cavity might require a different type of plastic hardener in order to fill it completely with out falling out of the grain in the process of hardening.
They will not move with the wood, and the bond between wood fibers treated with them and any subsequent filler will be very poor compared to that between CPES and Epoxy fillers, either Fill-It or our Epoxy Adhesives such as Layup and Laminating adhesive If you want long lasting repairs you must use two part epoxy products, and of all of those available on the market, these are the best.
When repairing wood that has mild dry rot, the CPES will travel through capillary action along the abnormal porosity which dry rot fungus creates within the wood, as long as it continues to be fed in. Impregnation of wood with CPES changes the cellulose of wood (which fungi and bacteria find tasty and easily digestible) into epoxy-impregnated cellulose which resists further attack by fungi and bacteria while reinforcing the wood, accomplishing restoration.
When repairing wood that has mild dry rot, the CPES will migrate along the abnormal porosity which dry rot fungus creates within the wood, as long as it continues to be fed in. Impregnation of wood with CPES changes the cellulose of wood (which fungi and bacteria find tasty and easily digestible) into epoxy-impregnated cellulose which resists further attack by fungi and bacteria while reinforcing the wood, accomplishing restoration.
There are many resins around which are designed to flex at the same rate as wood with more `car body filler` type consistancy but the problem being for a vertical post type application, without previous application of a stabilizer to the timber you would be creating a sort of pocket where moisture will eventually begin to rot again just a bit higher up, it is ok in a window or door frame as that is usually well painted creating a moisture barrier.
The particular kind of resins that must be used in Smith’s Clear Penetrating Epoxy Sealer in order to obtain all its usual performance features, which have made the product famous, do not cure well below about 50° F and essentially stop curing by 40° F. This is a normal characteristic of these products, and has been well known to chemists for half a century.
First, if the pressure treatment is very fresh, especially with some of the oil-based formulas, it can be hard to get paints and varnishes to stick to it. A more important reason is that while reputable pressure treated wood manufacturers measure their warranty in decades, they usually qualify their warranty by saying that this warranty applies only to uncut surfaces.
The amine (NH2) groups react with the epoxide groups of the resin during polymerisation. This class also displays low viscosity at room temperature, but offers significantly higher temperature resistance than the aliphatic epoxy diluents. Or any 2 part epoxy `wood stabiliser` or even that Tetrion stuff that smells crazy. I am trying to patch a wood deck that has been ruined with an over aggressive power washer. If I may make a suggestion, I would say a better method might be to place the dry wood in an Empty vacuum chamber. I like to cut the wood so that the grain is cut on a angle to expose as much of the end grain as possible.
The next thing to notice is the clear hardener which is the same as window care, but the woodcap compound is a light blue colour, this is to aid proper mixing so that you can obtain even colour to know that it is thoroughly mixed. I cut one mahogany body up afterwards and the resin didnt penetrate too far into the surface. Uses – Epoxy Primer should always be used before applying Mouldable Epoxy Putty onto smooth timber, planed timber, hardwoods, stone, brick, concrete or render. I have used Bondo for years to fill holes in wood windows where the wood had rotted.
Work quickly, once the epoxy begins to harden you will not be able to spread it. Average working time is about 30 minutes for most epoxies. Or you can wait until the sagging filler reaches the hardness of soap and carve it off with a putty knife or chisel or shape it with a Surform plane or rasp (Photo 2). Most medium to large repairs will require at least two layers of filler.
Once the weave is full any additional epoxy merely adds weight rather than strength. Over the years, a piece of wood will likely match the surrounding wood’s movement better than a big blob of filler will. It kinda needs a goop to hold in the voids (or grains).Picture an epoxy type of hardener. Rotted Wood Hardener rejuvenates damaged wood and makes it resistant to further deterioration.
To use the hardener I cut down to the thickness near where the wood needs to be and squirt it on with a bottle making sure it is saturated well and let the piece dry for about 24 hours, on some real soft wood (real punky or doughty), I repeat. The epoxy should be thickened with silica powder, or glass beads, to the point where it flows but only very slowly. Uses – to extend the Cartridge Nozzle so that holes can be injected with resin correctly – from the hole base outwards. The good parts are realy quite good but thare are many patches of fresh air where there should be wood. Of Switzerland, which went on to become one of the three major epoxy resin producers worldwide.
After fairing the holes with a little wood flour mixed in with the epoxy you can barely see them and a few coats of varnish later you would never notice them unless you were cleaning the whole bottom with a toothbrush! Soft Rots: Most decay fungi are unable to conduct water very far and can only attack moist wood. I often use MinWax Wood Hardener with great success on punky wood as you describe.
Someone told me they preferred to use oil-based on artificial surfaces like this (and that is what I’ve done), but I’m usually using latex on the surrounding wood. Our original intention was to flow mixed product into the wood until it would absorb no more and then measure the inches of penetration. Fillers suitable for indoor and outdoor use include Minwax High Performance Wood Filler, Abatron WoodEpox, and Advanced Repair Technology’s Flex-Tec HV. These are two-part materials that must be kneaded with nitrile gloves until they are perfectly uniform. I used a Dremel tool with a high speed cutter to get into the spots and remove all the rotted wood.
Removing paint from all sides of wood to be treated speeds solvent evaporation, as does moving air. The resin is generally some type pf acrylic monomer which penetrates easily into the wood under the alternate effects of a vaccum followed by positive pressure. The mixture is a low viscosity liquid that penetrates porous surfaces filling and sealing voids with an epoxy that cures to a hard but durable component. There are thinners that you can add to a high solids epoxy that won’t evaporate.
Bisphenol F may also undergo epoxidation in a similar fashion to bisphenol A. Compared to DGEBA, bisphenol F epoxy resins have lower viscosity and a higher mean epoxy content per gramme, which (once cured) gives them increased chemical resistance. Sorry, but we can’t offer this service to remote areas of the UK (Scottish Highlands and Islands). Includes: 1 litre of Epoxy Putty, 0.5 litres of Epoxy Primer, Box of 100 Uni Handed Vinyl Gloves, Smoothing Roller. Starting in the centre of the fabric gently brush un-thickened epoxy into the weave. Remove the heat source just before applying epoxy and the mix will thin as it comes into contact with the wood.