The truth is that any film finish will need periodic cleaning, and possibly touch ups of deep scratches. The makers recommend leaving it unvarnished and then treating it with tea oil (camellia japonica). Although a traditional finish, it is best not used for wood finishing (apart from cricket bats) as it goes gummy and sticky with age. This series of steps frequently takes as much time as shaping and installing the wood. Ashby recommends an oil-free, wood finisher’s 0000 steel wool (see where to buy at end of article) to avoid streaks and blurs.
Butcher Block Oil is an excellent protectant for all butcher block surfaces and excellent for protecting wood surfaces that come in contact with food: Simply wipe on, allow 5 minutes to penetrate and wipe off the excess. Such products vary widely in quality; the best of them provide protection equivalent to tung oil. Then apply some linseed oil very liberally (or lemon oil if you wish) and let it sit for about 10 minutes, then wipe off.
There are one step (oil & stain together) finishes available from Watco and Minwax, but we find that they take more work (coats) to get the same quality of finish and furthermore the formulations seem to vary from one can to the next making it impossible for me to write a procedure for an employee or a customer to follow. With the tip of rag, a small brush, or even a cotton swab, apply a thin coat of a wipe-on oil finish like General Finishes Royal Finish or UGL Wipe On Tung Oil.
The finish is really wonderful-it slightly darkens the wood to a very warm hue, waterproofs it, doesn’t crack if you ding it on something, and, best of all, you don’t have to strip it when you refinish; just reapply and resand every year or so, forever. If you can see flaking varnish with dark-stained wood underneath, you just need to restore the clear finish.
If an oil with a high percentage of d-limonene were applied to a fretboard, it might even begin to loosen the bindings, fret markers or other trim. The manufacturer claims that the finish is convenient to use and has a professional appearance. Once the wheel is assembled and over time you can add small amounts of extra oil finish and rub it in to keep up the luster and as the wood dries out a bit.
A unique blend of all natural oils that penetrate the wood to seal, Wood Finish preserves and brings out the beauty of the wood without harsh chemicals or solvents. From a technical perspective, floor finishes can be divided into two general types: those that sit on the wood’s surface and those that penetrate the wood. You work in a small area, scrubbing the finish with steel wool or a 3M synthetic steel wool pad. Oil – What we are referring to here is tung oil, linseed oil, teak oil, Danish oil, or any other kind of oil-based finish that dries and hardens in the wood.
Although it is easy to apply, even paste wax has some toxic solvent in it. Oil finishes are usually an oil / varnish blends. Lacquers should be applied only to new wood or over previously lacquered surfaces. It can be used on any finish and does a superb job of removing everyday dirt and dust. To removeany wax build-up present From other products, allow oil To stand 20minutes before wiping dry.
Linseed oil on the other hand comes from flaxseed and has historically been used to treat and protect gun stocks, musical instruments, and billiards cues…things made of wood. A power washer should never be used in the finishing or refinishing of wood; nor should two-part acid solutions, once popular in the cleaning of teak, that act by dissolving the wood. You can also buy a special finish made for salad bowls and wood kitchen utensils.
Good cleaning and maintenance must be performed to keep airborne contaminates from causing premature deterioration of the finish or wood. Tung oil (pressed from nuts of the Chinese tung tree) is another drying oil that came to North America about a century ago. Once a week, I use a damp cloth and wipe down the wood furniture, but dry it almost immediately with a dry cloth. Traditional varnishes and polyurethane coatings will also include some proportion of oil that makes them harder or softer.
Color the scratch, or larger blemish, with a felt-tipped pen containing a stain of the appropriate wood color. I spent most of the morning sanding, then gave everything a couple heavy coats of oil (with appropriate waits in between). Oil would make it darker, if you want to see what it would look like paint some water on it, that is how much darker it would appear when oiled.
Rosewood and ebony are left untreated and the natural oils in the wood protect them. So if you are using an oil base stain, also use an oil based wood conditioner and oil base polyurethane and vice versa. The water stream pounds the wood fibers into uneven grooves, leaving the surface clean but rough. My Mom (85) always kept her wood furniture looking clean by wiping with an old cloth diaper slightly dampened with water. NEVER wax furniture with an oil finish on it. NEVER mix oil and wax on any finish.
All my woodware is treated with this oil, the dry wood soaks it up and with time it sets in the wood and no further treatment is necessary. Every finish has its pros and cons, and no one finish is best for every floor type. A lemon oil furniture wax is fine…if you wish….all it is is lemon oil mixed with mainly mineral oil…but it does attract dust. With wipe-on finishes, I like to apply several coats and allow the finish to dry fully. Commercially available aerosol wood polish sprays usually coat wood surfaces with a dense shiny layer that does not last very long.
I would advise walnut or linseed or if you wish to continue using an oil similar to the ikea oil then it is mineral oil which is sold in pharmacies as a laxative, you can add essential oil to it if you like but it will have no long term effect. Mineral Oil is a non-drying oil, which means that it will not polymerize (form a plastic-like substance) over time.
After applying several coats, finish the job with two or three coats of good quality varnish; ideally, a two-part polyurethane. Usually, such marks are not visible until after the finish goes on. Most woodworkers start with 120 grit, move to 180, and finish with 220. I like oil-based stains because they penetrate the wood and are easy to control. Every piece of furniture, whether new or antique, needs a finish, but no single finish is right for all situations. I’m even tempted to sand off my Joy’s factory finish and refinish it with Watco oil. I know it did for me. After much discussion with various woodworkers, I opted for a Danish Oil finish.
Mix 1 ½ cups of olive oil with 1 cup of lemon juice in a spray bottle and shake to blend thoroughly. This is good for oiling cutting boards because it will stay a bit liquid in the wood and flow into cracks and scratches. A wadded up rag or paper with wet finish still on it can burst into flames and start a fire. Supposedly products like Pledge or Lemon Oil can darken finishes or dry them out.
Spray some of it on to a soft cloth and gently rub it on the wood in a circular motion. Funny that no one has mentioned the lovely paste wax finish made by Ashford and sold through Susan and Ashford distributors. Many woodworkers enjoy so-called Danish oil finishes, which have nothing to do with Denmark. If the wood becomes too dark, use a rag moistened in mineral sprits to lighten the wood.
You can apply as many coats as you want, and the wood only gets lovelier to look at and more velvety to the touch. The I would oil the piece and finish it with (depending of what it is) tung oil. There isn’t a lot that can be done for the crackled and baked finish on it, but the oil did darken it up and gave it some protection against drying out again quickly. For a tabletop you could have considered the option of using an oil with drying agents added eg boiled linseed since it does not come into contact with food. Check the label of the lemon oil container and you will find that it contains petroleum distillates.