Download Project How To Make A Wooden Router Plane

You might be able to find one for cheap, but it is likely to have some bits missing. If you can only afford to start out with one bench plane”, then I’d recommend buying a jack plane, specifically a bevel down Stanley No. 5 metal Jack Plane (Bailey” style or Bedrock” style, if you can afford it) or a Lie-Nielsen No. 62 Low Angle Jack Plane (bevel up…additionally works on difficult grain, end grain, and in concert with shooting boards ). Read this article by Christopher Schwarz to choose between Bevel up vs. Bevel down hand planes.

Blade 16 has a foot 18 attached to a shank or shaft 20. Shaft 20 is secured to plane body 12 with a collar 22 that encircles the shaft 20 and clamps it against a body post 24 by rotating a thumb screw 26. The projection of blade 16 beyond the sole 28 of body 12 can be adjusted in small increments by rotating blade adjustment knob or thumb nut assembly 30 which is threaded onto a threaded adjustment post 32.

It’s funny – Stanley dropped the 71-1/2 years before they stopped making the 71, but in many ways, it’s a better tool than the 71. Certainly, Lee Valley thought so, as their router plane is inspired by the 71-1/2; and Lie-Nielsen, the other modern maker of quality router planes, has had to add a 71-1/2-style router plane in response to customer requests.

I set the depth, plane all the dados on one side of one board, then increase the depth a little less than half a turn one turn equals 1/32″, iirc, and repeat until all the dados on that side of the board are done.) My _guess_ is that the problem is that the mechanism for holding the set depth is not reliable — that in use, the blade is slowly pulled deeper into the wood being planed.

It is a two piece construction, where a captive pivoting lever cap is pinned to another L-shaped piece, which is in turn screwed to the bottom casting much like the frog of the common Bailey bench plane is. The blade is secured into the frog using a thumb screw, as might be guessed, but it does so in a manner opposite what is common on other planes.

Actually, the planes have a major design problem – they choke very easily with the mouth as Stanley provided, and in order for them to work well, the mouth had to be filed open somewhat; the face of the iron, along its edges, butts right against the steel (see the #90 version of this plane for an image of the other side of the plane, where there is a very slight relief to the steel ahead of the iron, but only for a too short distance).

The earliest known examples of the woodworking plane have been found in Pompeii although other Roman examples have been unearthed in Britain and Germany The Roman planes resemble modern planes in essential function, most having iron wrapping a wooden core top, bottom, front and rear and an iron blade secured with a wedge One example found in Cologne has a body made entirely of bronze without a wooden core.

Block planes are characterized by the absence of a chipbreaker and the cutting iron bedded with the bevel up. The block plane is usually a smaller tool that can be held with one hand and is used for general purpose work such as taking down a knot in the wood, smoothing small pieces, chamfering edges, and making the end of a sawed board square and smooth.

Remove the lever cap and inspect the backside of the blade; an original cutter will not have a series of grooves, like those of a block plane, machined into it. A bullnose sole, which is usually long-lost, was added in 1909 to help the plane cut stopped chamfers (you still have to work the stopped areas by hand, however, since there is an amount of sole ahead of the iron).

I do some coopering and make wood buckets……I don’t have a croze, but thinking one of these router planes would work well to make the croze groove” inside the bucket for the bottom….thinking I could extend the cutting iron and then attach a wood piece something like a croze itself to be a fence” of sorts to guide the iron against the inside of the bucket staves.

I will be using threaded inserts in the final plane so that I can have different handles for different applications. The first model also uses a captive lever cap and a round brass thumb screw to secure the iron. It acts as a knife, slicing the wood fibers in front of the blade leaving a crisp shoulder. Woodworking machinery that perform the same function as hand planes include the jointer and the thickness planer , also called a thicknesser. I’ve also used the Stanley No. 148 Come & Go” Tongue & Groove Plane , but didn’t like it quite as much as the Stanley No. 48. Good think too, because they’re rarer & a bit more expensive.

Be sure to check these as it’s a fairly common problem on this plane and the #98 and #99 The screws that hold the nose piece in place are countersunk so that they don’t interfere with the plane’s cutting action. This plane is identical to the #72 , except that it has an additional attachment for molding the chamfers. It’s common enough, and for a plane that has no lateral adjust mechanism, it makes proper sharpening and tuning a pretty important thing.

To the rear of the blade, on the other side of the casting, is another thumb screw, which when turned puts some pressure on the blade from behind causing the blade to bow or spring. Just make sure you buy the closed throat version so you can use the router plane on board edges. Bench planes are characterized by the cutting iron bedded with the bevel facing down and attached to a chipbreaker. The plane is made up of a one piece U-shaped metal sole, which is bent upward to form the sides of the plane. Despite the tendency to choke, the plane is useful for trimming and odd rabbeting.