The Crown Molding Miter and Bevel Angles calculator will print out the Miter Angle and Saw Blade Bevel Angles for corner angles 0-360 and spring angles 0-90. For inside corners, the mud from the drywall install will push the corner out, which will result in the back corners of the moulding touching before the visible ones. The other advantage is that you don’t need to know the spring angle of the crown. Place the crown moulding face up, flat on the table, and with the bottom of the crown molding next to the fence. To overcome this, you’ll make four templates – one for each of the basic saw positions used for running crown around a flat ceiling. I find it easiest to mark along the curvy edge of the molding as a bit of a cutting guide.
The molding is placed upside-down on the miter saw with the flat on the back of the molding which goes against the ceiling on the saw’s bed and the flat that goes against the wall against the fence. To set this up, I first clamped a length of molding with its edges flush against the saw’s vertical fence and horizontal table. Slide the molding to the left side of the blade to cut the left-hand piece for an inside corner. And because it can be a little tricky with the angles – I thought having a handyman with 30+ years of experience give us tips would be a great idea. A standard saw blade may wiggle around a little in the slot and not give as true a cut.
Molding comes in a variety of spring angle varieties, but the most common tend to be 38° and 45° so we will work with those spring angle options here. This video shows and explains how to cut crown moulding in position on/with your compound miter saw safely and accurately. This saw can be adjusted to make clean, perfect cuts of multiple angles at once.
This method often is the better way to get a accurate cut, this is because you are holding the molding firmly in place while the cut is being made. Cut the end to mate with the first piece at a miter just as if you were using a compound miter joint to make the corner. The miter is 31.62 and the compound is usually 45 (there is usually a hard stop for it on the miter saw). After the glue is dry, the jig is set in place on the miter saw bed and attached with screws inserted through pre-drilled holes in the metal fence. This is an important factor to consider, especially if you are going to be cutting things like corner joint moldings.
It is important that it is sitting at the correct angle and each piece is set in the saw the exact same way. The major challenge facing many people is cutting crown molding to fit together along the wall. Also, be sure that you cope the inside corners-nothing evidences a DIY special better than mitered inside corners. Basically, make sure the 2 turned edges of the molding are flush against the bottom and fence of the saw, and also that the molding is upside down. If you have a saw like this, use only the left bevel position for the installation procedures on this page.
The angle of the blade can be set so that you can make the compound cut with the molding lying flat on the saw’s table… a vastly easier and more accurate cutting method. Most corners will be roughly 90 degrees or only an angle or so off that mark, but for the sake of accuracy, it is important that you find out the precise measurement before proceeding. However, this is a compound cut, and therefore much harder to do. For this reason, this project is better suited to experienced carpenters rather than novices. Making the modest investment in a Crown Molding Miter Jig will make such difficulties disappear.
Mitering inside joints perfectly can be difficult and usually results in unwanted gaps between the two pieces of molding. However, with a little practice and patience, anyone can master it. The first thing is to not assume that it is cut the same way that exterior corners are cut. Then I stack the 1 x 4s on the miter-saw table, adjust the saw blade angle to match the diagonal line and cut the 1 x 4s (5). I say only up to 6 inches” like that’s a bad thing, but many people who do woodworking very rarely need to cut materials wider than that, if ever. Turn the molding upside down, set your saw at least 5 degrees to the right and cut straight down until you hit the curvy part.
To cut the right hand section of an inside corner, swing the miter arm to the left and place the work piece to the left of the blade. I always make my first cut with the bottom against the fence, if there’s a right-hand inside corner or a left-hand outside corner. If you are going to do this, do not rely on holding the crown with your hand because you won’t get consistent cuts that way. You can obtain the miter and blade tilt from the Compound Miter Chart, Crown Molding Table or the Compound Miter Excel Program.
Yahoo… congratulations you have just finished installing beautiful crown molding… If you need to paint, paint away, and if you chose the material I did that is already finished, then double yahoo to you! Working to the right, the next piece will have a coped inside corner cut at its left end and a square cut at the other. The following two chart shows settings are for all U.S. Standard Crown Molding with 52° and 38° angles, and assume that the angle between the wall is 90°. A: Yes, mitering crown molding does require cutting compound angles, Bill, but you don’t need a compound mitersaw to do it.
Lots of carpenters have trouble understanding angles-primarily because of the miter gauges on miter saws. That way when I flip the material to make the second cut, I’m always guiding the saw blade and cutting to a measurement mark – measurement marks are always on the bottom of the molding (unless you’re running crown up a sloped ceiling). Molding can shrink or shift out of position slightly-with a scarf joint, as opposed to a square-edged butt joint, a gap won’t appear at the seam. I pressed a 30-inch, straight-edged board tight against the crown and clamped it to the table (2).
Another method for fitting together inside corners is to cut both pieces at opposing 45-degree angles with the molding placed upside down on the saw. Most compound miter saws have pre-marked spots to show where to set your blade and base for commonly used cuts of crown molding. In this position the projection dimension is the distance the top edge of the molding projects from the fence. On the second piece of molding, make a 45-degree-angle cut so that the exposed cut faces outward.
Turn the compound miter saw table counterclockwise to the correct miter setting and tilt the saw to your left to the correct blade tilt angle. Place the ceiling edge of the molding against the saw fence and site along the blade to line it up and cut the molding just outside the mark on the ceiling edge. I start with a corner, usually inside, and mark on a scrap the inside angle with an angle divider, look at a Stanley #30, mark down my lengths, go to all corners the same way, go cut my crown, and install it. Sliding saws are also commonly used for cutting other thick materials like lumber and boards, and even logs.
Attach the rest of your molding being sure to glue all edges that will make contact to another surface and match your edges up carefully. Set the saw to cut piece A at the opposite end of the molding by sliding the table to the left and setting it at 35°. If you choose to try to angle you corners you are going to spend all day trying to get them right. Some saws like this DeWalt model have available as an accessory, these adjustable crown molding stops. With crown molding, getting the angle right usually causes the most difficulty.