This rustic knotty alder entry door is brought to life with black epoxy filling apply to the cracks and knots. That is done after the deck is sanded smooth, stained with the Interlux Wood Filler stain, and then several coats of Pettit 2056 Varnish applied, hand sanded with 220 sandpaper between coats. If you’re filling an already finished floor or a prefinished floor with this product always, wipe the filler and area off with a damp rag or a shinny spot will appear around the spots that were filled. Remember you can paint or stain the finished surface afterwards to make your repair invisible – just wait until it’s 100% dry first. If you are filling knots, use an ebony fill, or tint a small amount of your red oak fill.
Obviously this is more of a challenge in the grooves and i was wondering if it’s critical to get ALL the paint off or just weather” it. thanks so much for your help! In this article we take a closer look at several broad categories of fillers sold for wood and what they can and can’t do when it comes to old-house projects. Silicone wood filler is a good wood putty for hardwood floors because it expands and contracts with humidity fluctuations. There’s no reason why you shouldn’t do a few test runs on old bits of wood before tackling the real thing.
Although the finish covers both wood and pores, it follows the contours, allowing the texture of the wood pores to telegraph through the finish. For example, we followed label directions to add stain (in this case red mahogany) to two cellulose products, DAP Plastic Wood ready mixed in a tube and Savogran, a dry filler. My home was built in 2003 and I have problems with my exterior wood trim (1X4’s)and fascia boards (2X10’s). Filler gels work by mixing sanding dust, preferably from the wood being sanded and repaired, with a clear gel that binds the dust together.
Wood filler and water putty don’t fill the cracks all that well; they seem to have their own cracking problems and leave a texture that doesn’t match the original wood. Melissa, you got it. Dig out the old patch and filler with a new stainable wood filler. Just trim it off flush with the outside of the trim and you are good to go. On larger holes cutting a plug would be preferable if wanting to screw into that area as most filler has a tendency to break out under load or contraction/expansion of the surrounding wood if used in too large an area. I used Elmer’s ProBond Wood Filler, and made sure that it could be painted or stained over.
Instead of epoxy consolidant, you’ll use High Performance Wood Hardener to solidify and strengthen the wood fibers (Photo 1). Polyester begins hardening faster than Abatron WoodEpox. Let the wood filler harden, sand everything well, add the Wood Filler stain, and proceed as described above. Tinted liquid filler is sometimes used like lightening stain, to change the color of the wood.
The 14-ounce size is perfect for spot filling and ideal on already finished or pre-finished wood, exotic species, or inlays and borders (before recoating). Unless the scratches are significant I would probably simply add some stain to the area so the fresh wood blends in and isn’t as apparent. Step 2: Using a putty knife, smooth it over, but not completely flush to the surface of the door.
Fillers designed strictly for filling voids are thicker, and for one reason or another may not work well for filling grain pores – they may contain particles too large to work into miniscule grain openings, or may not be easily thinned down to a viscosity suitable for the task. Once satisfied, paint all trim with 2 light coats overlapping onto the wall a couple of inches to fully seal the trim and spackle.
I found that taking tooth picks, flat or round, your choice, moistening them with alcohol and shaping them to the crack, putting in wood glue and putting in the picks with a screwdriver or pointing tool will work great, dry and sand. When this technology is adapted and combined with other materials, the result is an exceptionally strong and durable wood filler. Watch the video How to Apply Ultimate Glue on a Non-porous Surface ” to learn more.
Bartley Paste Wood Filler is a classic oil based grain filler, and a top choice for filling grain under oil based wood finishes It comes in three shades and when used as correctly, will produce the perfectly flat surface necessary for a glass-smooth” finished product. Just pour a workable puddle and trowel the floor, going back and forth across the cracks and voids to ensure deep penetration, removing excess filler as you go. 3 1/2-gallon bucket fills up to 3,000 square feet. They aren’t elastic, but they can move and flex better than standard putty when dry.
Let’s assume that the floor or door trim is either poplar or pine (wood I usually use). The JB Weld epoxy product KwikWood looks like a great fit for a project we are getting ready to take on (woodpeckers ruined a fascia board on one dormer). Epoxy fillers by nature require thoroughly mixing two components in accurate (often equal) proportions so that they will harden properly through a chemical reaction. You could, but unless you have an issue with the grain being soft, I wouldn’t worry too much about it. This less viscous epoxy does a great job of soaking into the fibers.
After you’ve chopped your hole clean to the brick or blockwork and brushed away all the dust, paint PVA glue on to the area, mixed 5 parts water to 1 part glue. Now the cedar chest lid broke apart inbetween pieces of wood where the lid arm goes. Apply wood filler using a putty knife starting at the edge of the damaged area and pressing the filler into the damaged area.
Caulk: this is flexible acrylic mastic (such as Painter’s Mate), and the best thing to use for filling any gaps that may appear between your skirting board and wall, your doorframe and the wall, or at the edges of shelves that are going to be painted. There are a few special techniques that can be used to ensure that your wood filler is evenly applied.
Drying time varies wildly depending on how big the wood patch is and the weather. Jim, in your situation I would dig out the damaged wood and fill a large portion of what’s missing with a Dutchman patch then fill the remaining smaller gaps with the epoxy. This technological advantage of a 2-part wood filler also allows the product to cure quickly and adhere permanently to the repaired surface. Some fillers permeate the surrounding wood fibers and prevent them from absorbing stain later.
Removal of old paint by sanding, scraping or other means may generate dust or fumes that contain lead. We adore this pre-mixed filler because it shrinks less than any other filler we have tried, which makes it a better choice if you insist on filling larger areas. Generally speaking, dye stains go on before filling, but pigment stains are applied after the wood is filled and sanded. That’s because once epoxy is mixed, it only gives you about 5 minutes of working time before it starts to harden.
Or you can wait until the sagging filler reaches the hardness of soap and carve it off with a putty knife or chisel or shape it with a Surform plane or rasp (Photo 2). Most medium to large repairs will require at least two layers of filler. Exterior wood glues are designed to withstand outdoor weather elements such as temperature and moisture. Wood Patch is available in 1-gallon, 1-quart and 14-ounce containers, in all 16 colors listed above.
Imagine if you were to submerse a piece of wood into sealer, letting it absorb all it could at the end grain or spongy areas, then remove it and wipe off the entire surface. The wood shop requires you to watch a one hour video mainly focusing on safety, then you can either pay a $45 a year membership or pay $3 a day for the use of the shop. Selleys Knead It putty range come in a handy roll form, so you simply cut off what you need, and save the rest for your next job. Stir the two substances with the putty knife until the mixture begins to thicken.
I have a couple of nice, old, solid wood doors from the 30s & while the paint is quite sound, there’s an unintended crackle effect. Clamping pressure should bring surfaces together and there should be some glue squeezed out from the joint. To mend essential load bearing elements a special wood hardener rather than an ordinary filler is probably your best option. Depending on what kind of wood your trim is made of you may be stuck with those black teardrops.
Smooth the top surface and once it’s dry sand it until you get an even finish, flush with the surface of the wood. It’s always a bit of an artist’s touch to fill and hide damage in varnished wood. Rather than wood putty… put the hinge against the door jamb, then shove some toothpicks into the stripped holes and break off the excess. And unlike a dowel, it will absorb the same amount of stain or finish as the wood around it.