Probably one of the decisions you’re struggling with right now at this point is determining which type of chicken coop you need. All-in-one: An all-in-one coop features a small shelter for a modest-sized flock and an incorporated run under a single roof, with one or both large enough for human entry, yet it’s small enough to be relocated easily. An afternoon putting chicken wire on everything, shingling our roof, attaching the run to the coop, and the final product looks like this.
A run is basically a covered, fenced in area attached to the coop where the hens can get out and enjoy fresh air and sunshine every day. The rope is pulled from the front to open the door and is hooked on to a cleat to keep it open. Even in late August when Hurricane Irene hit, my chicken coop remained unscathed and never moved an inch. The plans and designs I created are from my understandings of things required to meet the objectives of my coop.
Most of the time you will probably need both but you need to carefully read your building plans to make sure you get the right size. Listed on each of our chicken coop pages is the recommended housing capacity (holds 3-5 chickens) for each coop, as well as the recommended nesting boxes (3 nesting boxes) for each. So I drew up a pretty basic shed style chicken coop with a door on one side and a humble sloping roof.
There was a concrete pad already poured where we wanted to build the coop, but we wanted to use that for a future shed or work area for the garden that is part of the same area. I filled in the slats with wood scraps of wood and began the framework, walls and ceiling..unfortunately, it isn’t done yet (still has a wall to go) so I don’t have a completed photo…it’s done far enough, however, to accomplish what I wanted it for-a place close to the chicken coop to store the feed and keep it dry. You can solve this by simply adding some small windows covered with chicken wire.
In this case, their chicken house is the only thing in the neighborhood that looks like home, so they will go inside at night without any trouble. They are not 100% complete with every possible detail as they were originally drawn only as a guide for myself for occasional reference while I built our coop. You can build your own, buy a kit or buy one turn-key; you can convert a shed or playhouse.
When I mounted the gutter to the coop I realized the lower end would be below the drip edge from the roof. I would suggest you to purchase a guide which should contain a good amount of chicken coop plans so that you can keep chickens easily. Chicken coop plans When I think of something like this I think metal poles, with steel cable run between them, but that might not be appropriate for something like this. Nathan used 1-inch angle iron, but three-quarter-inch material would make the coop a bit lighter and easier to move.
When the pasture reaches 18 inches in height, your hands can really take a beating during a summer of pasture-based chicken farming. This raised chicken coop is perfect if you don’t have a big area or if you’re not raising too many chickens in your flock. Modern commercial chicken houses use higher densities, but it’s hard to achieve the same densities in one of our smaller chicken house and still leave you enough room to get any work done inside. In a hotter climate, reflective silver tarps or sheet metal would make a more appropriate wall. Seems Nathan decided he liked to pretend he was a hen checking out the new coop.
The right chicken coop guide will offer you multiple styles and sizes of coops so you can find one that fits your skill level as a builder. There are several designs available; with your free chicken coop plans to build, but if you need some others, plus some further information on keeping chickens see below – Enjoy! I should mention up front that you won’t find my DIY chicken coop in a designer catalog, but if your goal is chicken in the freezer, follow along with these simple steps. Karen added a wooden frame underneath, to make the structure portable, and front and back walls. You can also bury bricks or stone under the ground outside your coop to discourage predators from digging.
We added a prop to hold the roof open, which I will show you how to build later on. And, we added a little hook to the side of the laying box so he can hang his basket up while he gathers his eggs. You can open the small door to let the birds in and out or open the large door so you can change their food and water. When we decided to start raising chickens about 3 years ago we went the quick and easy route and decided to buy a premade chicken coop, and after I saw the prices of some of these chicken coops I basically purchased the cheapest chicken coop I could find.
Raccoons and determined dogs can rip chicken wire apart, and will quickly gain access to your coop. Without such prerequisite skills, my best recommendation (in terms of safety) is to hire a local contractor to erect a chicken coop for you. After several wrestling matches with my chicken wire, I stapled the wire to the outside of the base 2-by-4s before I unrolled it. Then all I had to do was lay it over the top of my shell and staple it fast to the other side. I recommend having a few nest boxes in the coop but don’t be surprised if one nest box becomes the popular nest.
If this is your family home and you have a plan of how you want things to look for the next 10-20 years then I would say think a little about the materials you want to build it out of. If you have a large block you may be able to build it down the back and screen a cheaper construction with a hedge. Your guide will recommend a specific material so unless you know how to build a solid roof to keep the elements out, you should listen to your guide. Once bump out has been assembled, attach to the side of the coop with the right side lined up with the pass-though opening in the siding. The second reason is to deter chicken predators and pests from chewing into the coop from the ground.
This is where having a mobile chicken coop comes in really handy since you can easily transport it to wherever you are going to be to really keep a watchful eye on them. You can add door stop moulding in 1x2s to the inside of the doorway to act as both a stop and a weather seal – see next diagram. Building a chicken coop is not an easy task, you need a detailed plans so you don’t have any problem in the process. There are also prefabricated nest boxes available , though some chicken keepers use plastic kitty litter boxes for nests because they are easy to remove and clean periodically.
In the starting I build it by just an idea in my mind but I failed then I realized I need a clear guide for chicken coop plans. Placing windows on all four sides of the coop with open gables towards or air vents towards the top of the coop are best for maximizing air exchange, especially in cold weather. We encourage you to take these recommendations into account when ordering a chicken coop for the health and humanity of each chicken and consistency of each laying hen. It can also be used to cover windows, vents, or other gaps in the shelter and make them predator-proof.
Let me tell you from experience, there is nothing worse than having to basically climb in the coop to get it clean. Egg access door outside the coop frees up valuable coop floor space and allows eggs to be collected in winter without letting any heat out of the coop or tracking snow into it. For all beginners and for those who think, that they need some extra guidance or information, I always recommend to check Bill’s detailed chicken coop guide which will offer you a wide range of chicken coop plans that are appropriate for beginner to experienced builders. Again, take a look around your coop and think of it from a chicken’s perspective.
This is our level” line, you can see how far the right side of the base is slanted downwards and how far off the string is from the pallets. Here are the materials I bought for this chicken coop, If you have some of these building materials already you can reduce the cost quite a bit. As soon as you have made payment you will be directed to our exclusive members only page where you can instantly download your copy of Building A Chicken Coop and all your free bonuses.
Yes, you heard it right, I’ve been a homesteader for years, and there are just four things that you have to be mindful of when building your DIY chicken coop. We also had to squeeze it between the fence and the mulberry tree, as this was the ideal location to house the coop for protection from the elements. Provide easy access for the farmer, with either a roof high enough to stand under or walls low enough to step over.
We used corrugated plastic sheeting (the material often used to make small, weatherproof yard signs) to make a cozy, 3-by-3-foot roosting area for our hens inside one end of the coop. Remember it’s all about access and maintenance on a weekly basis, so don’t make it harder than it needs to be for you. Build a gate frame to fit the space of the entryway (a 2- by 6-foot rectangle) using 2×2 lumber.
And if I had to do it all over again, the most fundamental improvement I would make would be to use a thicker rope as means for relocation. As we’ve already discussed location is partially going to be determined by land forms already, but having the coop within a close distance (eye’s range is even better) will help you keep a closer eye on your chickens and ensure they are safe. Here is a close up of the back of the door showing the hardware cloth sandwiched between siding and trim pieces.
Most people will make a mistake at some point, so recognize that it’s common and try not to let it overwhelm you. Vents allow dust and other particles to escape and allow fresh, oxygen-laden air in. Without adequate ventilation, carbon dioxide levels in your coop will rise and not enough oxygen will flow in to replace what the chickens breathe. Ensure your coop is placed in a shaded, level part of the garden that’s dry and not in direct sunlight. They can be held in with heavy-duty 1-inch chicken wire if it is attached very securely with a combination of poultry staples and wire or tie wraps.