Metal drawer slides are appropriate if the drawer will be opened many times per hour (perhaps a kitchen drawer), if a drawer will have a very heavy load (books, pans, or tools, rather than just clothing), or if full extension is required – you must have direct access to the back of the drawer. In some cases, drawers may have another mechanism by which to pull it, including holes cut in the front face or a hollowed-out area to insert the fingers on the bottom side of the front face of the drawer. IMO this is superior to the cheaper drawer guides available – maybe not as good as the top line guides but works well. The front and back parts can be attached to the drawer sides in a number of ways: the easiest of which are loose tenons, dowels or pocket screws. Lastly, we slid the organizer into the drawer and replaced the utensils in their newly organized slots. Using wood glue and a silicone brush begin applying a light coat to the dresser.
You can probably guess that the shuttles might not always behave, as the sliding friction from the drawer movement could pull them out of position in random ways. The first thing you will do when you start to make a wooden drawer slide is measure the location that the drawer will do. You will need to have some space around the drawer so that will slide and in and out with ease. When it’s time to assemble the drawer boxes trim the pieces to the correct length using a miter saw. Make sure you keep your drawer slide flat against the fence while running it through the saw.
They can providing there is enough space between the drawer bottom and where the slide attaches to. You may have to notch out the bottom back of the drawer and modify the length of the slide depending on how deep your drawer is. I used these on a makeup stand with flush faced drawers. Basically, you attach the drawer bracket to the drawer and cabinet bracket to the bottom of the cabinet.
If you’re cabinets will have overlay drawers, where the drawer front sits in front of the cabinet body as pictured above, take the measured depth of the cabinet and look for a drawer slide that is 1 to 2 inches shorter than that measurement. It’s easy to shim behind a slide with layers of masking tape to make up for a too-small drawer. Reach into the cabinet and place 1 1/2-inch screws in the holes you drilled in the ends of the braces.
I worked with a cabinet and drawer box mfgr called Scherrs (no link, but the website is charmingly 90s) when I refaced all the drawers and cabinets in my kitchen (added a couple of giant drawers for appliances, too), and it was inexpensive and easy. For anything plastic, metal, or a combination of the two you should be able to use the same lubricants, as anything too harsh to use on plastic will also ruin the finish of whatever holds up the slides. Easiest way is to use ribbon or string or something to line out your drawer at home (she used jenga blocks).
You’ll see I had to nail down some scrap mdf first because I realized right off the bat that my DIY drawer” wouldn’t clear the lip of the cabinet unless I raised this up a bit. The slot for the drawer bottom is in the slip rather than in the side of the drawer, so the drawer side is not weakened by the slot for the drawer bottom. If you are wanting to make trays for garage or shop storage cabinets that will hold heavy tools a more heavy duty drawer slide is recommended. I was unable to find the wooden drawer slides from either local home centersand was quite frustrated.
Vertical alignment is critical… I find that it is far better to use a scrap of wood cut to the required distance, rather than trying to get an accurate measurement. Before we get into the details let’s take a look at a typical drawer box construction. The frame stiles and rails need only be thick enough to cover the visible plies on the plywood and the drawer opening.