Stain Won’t Take!

After two coats of red mahogany I figured out it was never going to be dark enough. They do however have some porosity which allows limited moisture movement with the wood underneath, providing more stability between the stain and the substrate. Always follow behind these types of power sander by stroking the wood parallel with the grain. You can send images in to wood@finishes.direct try not to have too much artificial light shining on the wood and please bare in mind that we can only guide you in the right direction, you will need to do some test areas first to ensure you are getting the finish that you want – Sam.

Some of the holes had some filler residue smears that only partially took the stain and they look pretty bad. Allow the stain to penetrate according to the label’s directions, then remove the excess stain with a rag, again wiping in the direction of the grain. You just have to apply the stain while the oil is still wet otherwise the dried linseed oil may prevent you from getting the desired hue to match the rest of the stained piece. The initial application of any paint or varnish is similarly absorbed into the substrate, but because stains contain lower amounts of binder, the binder from a stain resides mainly below the surface while the pigment remains near the top or at the surface.

This will open up the resin (varnish) coat that is sealing the surface of the wood. It will also interfere with the cure of the product that has penetrated into the wood causing the product to fail to protect the wood fibers. I am having the same problem, I striped the old stain on a Mahogany Buffet, sanded and put the conditioner. I am trying to stain my own maple kitchen cabinets thinking my experience as a textile designer for 20 years and using dyes and water colors with air brushes would serve me well……..HARDLY!! I only have stained the moldings so far so I guess I will have to sand these areas down to bare wood again,restain the areas and the mix the filler with stain and apply where needed.

Generally speaking, oil-based stains will not cure if they can’t absorb into the wood. If the wood is currently bare then the first thing that I would recommend is that you apply a preservative to protect against mould, mildew and wood boring insects, to the exterior areas. But again, if that one board is a different species, it will always look different unless you obscure it completely with a thick stain. I’ve just been given some new doors which aren’t as red as the stain I’ve used on my dresser and I wanted to try and even the colours out. Hundreds of years ago woodworkers invented simple ways to give uniform color to wood.

Now we can address the matter of secondary importance, which is how to apply a stain and varnish topcoat, to end up with a uniform color appearance. Sand bare or stripped wood lightly with #150, #180 or #220-grit sandpaper to open the pores in preparation for staining. Natural appearance and protection from moisture are advantages provided by penetrating stains.

Testing your stain is very important because the color of a stain, unlike a paint, is influenced by the wood it is applied to. You need to see the stain color on your particular wood before you can be sure of exactly what color you will end up with. Unfortunately I can not advise you on colour choice as this is down to personal preference, but what I can tell you is that the oil applied to a hard wood could be more difficult the work into the wood. Once the surfaces of the wood have been prepared, the wood needs to thoroughly dry.

Decks and porches present a particularly severe exposure for both the wood and finishes. The surface texture is retained, but these opaque stains tend to perform like paint, and do not penetrate the wood so deeply. Penetrating wood oils are mineral oil or plant oil based, and contains a form of pigment. If you’re planning to stain your pallet with a dark brown color to create contrast with your all-white closet, you’ll need to sand them first. If the windows and door jambs in this house weren’t stained that ugly color I’d re-trim for free using a stain color I could make work.

For a uniform covering, mix the stain thoroughly before and during applications. Another method of getting a stain to penetrate deeper into the wood is to open the grain by wetting it down with distilled water. To avoid surprises, first test any stain you are considering on an inconspicuous spot to insure that the colour of the stain — in conjunction with the natural colour of the wood — produces the colour you desire. You may also find that the wood absorbs more of the product due to its slightly rough finish.

I also experimented with a latex-based stain and boiled linseed oil on the end grain and was pleased with the results. I found the same thing to be true for the wood putty on the interior doors I am staining – they won’t accept the stain very well. After cleaning, use a wood brightener such as oxalic acid to open the pores of the wood and clean nail bleeds and discolored areas. Sand carefully if necessary, starting with a 180 grit sandpaper and being sure to follow the direction of the wood grain.

I know now to use a gel stain on pine, but I hesitate to do this on this project since Watco doesn’t make a gel stain to match the oil stain I used on the rest of the project. In other words, you may spend more time using this type of finish than the Woodworking Stain & Poly method. To prevent lap marks follow the procedures suggested under application of semitransparent penetrating stains.

I barely prepped the wood — mainly removing any burns and sanding only with 100 grit, and everything I did came out nicely. In this respect they fall somewhere between liquid stains and the so called one step stain and finish combinations. Lumber is being used less and less as exterior siding, but was once the most common wood material used in construction. UV in sunlight, moisture, humidity, rain, and temperature shifts – all of these factors can really do a number on your wood.

It is likely that you will only be able to do one coat of each with this product and for an alternative there is a stain called Driftwood in the Manns Wood Stain Range and you can apply as many coats of this as youlike before finishing with a top coat of the Polyx Oil. DuraSeal® Penetrating Finish is a semi-transparent stain formulated to seal, color and provide exceptional durability when used on bare wood and masonry surfaces.

Minwax® preparation products are the first step to ensure your wood surfaces show their most beautiful colors and smoothest finishes. I used one coat of mahagony Minniwax stain and the color is deep brown with just a hint of mahagony in it. Use foam brush to put it in, and use a pre-stain conditioner. It is best to paint wood surfaces within 2 weeks, weather permitting, after installation.

After the stain dried completely I used 3 coats of minwax satin wiping polyurethane on the railing which is very easy to apply, but it is not suitable for floors. You could have just sanded the light or tan spots with 150grit, then 220, then re-wet the spots sanded to re-open pores, let dry then apply stain, wipe excess, dab stain if needed to blend. See why Defy stains penetrate better than other stains and will enhance the beauty of your deck and give it long lasting protection for years of enjoyment. To help reduce blotchiness when staining, first apply a liberal coat of a pre-stain wood conditioner.

I did use a wood conditioner because all the panels are eight feet long and i didn’t want to have and color tone differences. Be especially cautious of wood that has been stored outdoors or in a moist environment, and give it plenty of time to dry out before you try to finish it. Otherwise, the finish may trap the moisture in the wood, causing problems as the moisture tries to escape, including bubbles. Specifically, you’ll probably want to strip and sand the cabinets back to bare wood.