Electric Planers Vs. Manual Planes

Hand planers come in a couple of varieties, electric and hand and they really serve 2 different functions. The bolt holes 69, 69, however, form a means to accommodate adjustment of the cutter blades 24 with respect to the cutter block 23. H: The tote is a handle on the rear of the plane.(Some aficionados object to the use of the word tote preferring handle). This electric planer shaves and smoothes wood for fencing and decks with speed and quality! Slide the planer through the cut with a light, uniform pressure on both front and back of the tool, and don’t lift up until the cutterhead has cleared the workpiece.

Having a good hand planer though is not good enough, you have to be able to keep it really sharp so understanding how to sharpen and maintain the planers is essential for success. And although I don’t show you how to use this attribute it comes in handy when you have to plane your door’s vertical edges. Festool makes a portable planer and sells special wavy cutterheads for doing exactly this.

I suppose the the number of replies to the post is a good indication that an electric planer is not regarded very highly, therefore little use. This meant: frame checked and final fixed, solid wood doors cut and planed to size, hinges and all funiture installed, first coat of primer on. Recently, I hung five internal solid wood doors in just over 4 hours, with a power hand planer and a router taking much of the ‘grunt’.

So unless there is something very specific you need that a belt sander just won’t do, I’d recommend the sander ahead of an electric plane. A few passes with a power planer and frequent checking with your straightedge can give you a flat surface for installation in no time at all. These blades have the equivalent of small planer blades all over the blade and make very clean cuts in foam or wood. While we were sad to set our trusted Skil aside this new planer was just too much fun to use.

If you are a complete beginner you will need to do some learning before you repair the Chippendale dining table. That will ensure that spare parts (like brushes and drive belts and armatures and pulleys and switches and sole parts and knobs) as well as blades will be readily available for years and years in the future. There are times when a cordless planer is useful, most especially for smaller tasks. There’s a cutter-head with a pair of sharp knives that, like a plane iron, removes shavings of stock. But from our point of view the single most defining feature of the Skil planer was the depth adjustment mechanism.

The motor 41 may be a conventional form of high speed electric motor and has a toothed motor pinion or pulley 4-7 meshing with and driving a cogged belt 50, commonly known as a timer belt. The anwer is yes, but in three weeks I’ve used mine once and lost count of the times I’ve reached for the hand plane. The first step is to mark the section of the door that’s rubbing against the floor or top of the door jamb. Absolute no-go when you would use it as a replacement for a (thickness-/)jointer.

This is the kind of planer I would use to trim down windows that were sticking and hard to open or close. The Hitachi P20SF Electric planer is compact and lightweight with a soft-grip handle. The electric version, which is what we are dealing with here are more associated with building type construction and carpentry and even home renovation, than they are to fine woodworking. In the mid-1860s, Leonard Bailey began producing a line of cast iron-bodied hand planes, the patents for which were later purchased by Stanley Rule & Level, now Stanley Works The original Bailey designs were further evolved and added to by Justus Traut and others at Stanley Rule & Level.

If you’ve ever installed a ceiling, flooring or drywall, you’ve undoubtedly encountered the occasional stud or joist that simply isn’t in the same plane as those next to it. Trying to get drywall hung with a warped stud jutting out-of-plane with the others is tedious. If you continue woodworking you will use the handplane a LOT you will RARELY use the electric one.

I have made up a jig to allow thicknessing, along the lines of the Bosch, and although the maximum depth is 80mm it is adequate for rails and legs etc.. Finest thicknessing I have managed is around 0.5mm in softwood, not bad me thinks. Ensure this no-gap fit by carefully shaving to the wall scribe mark and angling the planer slightly to cut more wood off the backside of the board than is cut off the front.


The LN will be used for all sort of tweaking jobs you’ll have and the LV is a very handy plane that can do jack duties, some smoothing and shooting. To ensure an even compaction of wet concrete, try our electric and air powered pokers. Funnily enough there’s been an electric plane and a very old Record sat on my bench for the last three weeks whilst I fit out my campervan.

When I said the blades on the DeWalt were in adjustment, what I mean is: The planer came with a gauge for setting the blades. If a planer model is extinct for a long time and there aren’t many of them around anymore, the surviving ones with defects may only serve as display dressing. I had to plane some pine shelf edges and the unit went through it like butter, like the other reviewers noted this makes a huge mess when you don’t use the bag….and I didn’t. The planer stand is a good piece of safety equipment to keep the blade clear form contact while you’re working, and is spring loaded for easy setting.

After seeing how well the planer worked on the edges of the doors I used it on the face. A concave setting permits great control for planing large curves, like table sides or chair arms, and the convex works well for chair arms, legs and backs, and other applications. Always allow the cutter to come up to speed before cutting, and always engage the workpiece smoothly with both hands on the machine; never use a power planer onehanded.

That way you will not be stuck to a particular brand or a needle-in-a-haystack-size when your particular planer model is phased out of the production line and parts stock inventory by the manufacturer. Most are bench-mounted bases that support the planer securely in an inverted position. Accordingly, it is an object of the present invention to provide an electric hand plane with a planing depth adjuster, which avoids the disadvantages of the prior art. Hand planer is where its at. And if you need a planer/jointer, a hand power planer will not help you in that regard.

Even then, I can’t say for certain that it is faster than a scrub plane followed by a jack plane. You should probably have very good facility with a hand plane before using a power plane anyway, DAMHIK. I found it to be indespensible and use it frequently on things that are too big to go through the planer. The other thing to look out for, as with floor standers, is the plane of the beds being parallel.

Its planing depth adjusting device with planing depth indicator is formed by a single handle coupled with a wedge-shaped body which can slide back and forth at the underside of the hand plane which has the form of an oblique plane. You’ll need the jointer (or, hand planes) to true up one face on your boards, and to get a good 90° angle on the edges.

Used with a fence, a planer will give you a perfect 90-degree edge; if the door requires a slight bevel for a perfect fit, you can do that freehand or with an adjustable fence. I have the Hitachi hand planer and it is a cheaper one which is why I bought it. I didn’t think I would use one often. Unlike cordless electric planers, corded electric planers can be used without worrying about losing power in the middle of a task.

The Bosch GHO26-82D electric planer gives an impressive 710 watts of power and comes with an enhanced front shoe over the previous model. I partly took the planer apart to see if another means of adjustment was apparent, but I couldn’t see any. The planer was made from aluminum so it was relatively light and therefore easy to handle for long stretches of time. This is called back beveling.” Plane the entire edge of the filler board by raising the cabinet high enough off the floor to allow the tool to complete its pass.

A). Like a jointer, the planer has blades mounted on a cutter head or drum that spins at 20,000 rpm, removing wood equal to the difference in elevation between the front and rear shoes. Sargent was one of the major manufacturers of hand planes through the 20th century. A simplified adjustment for adjusting the depth of cut of the plane has, therefore, been provided operable merely by the turning of a machine screw holding the triangular wedge to the base shoe of the plane in various selected positions of adjustment in accordance with the desired setting of the cutting depth of the planer blades. I have 2 hand planers, A makita and a GMC (which seems to be a clone of the Makita).

As with almost all bladed tools (IE-chisels, manual planes etc.) the blades needed some touching up on my stones. When using a buzzer set the knob on the front for the depth of cut, and use it as a grip for your left hand. Virtually all have a V-shaped chamfering notch on the front shoe — something you won’t see on a hand plane — and some have multiple notches in varying sizes. While new Sargent planes are no longer being manufactured, the company was so productive that their hand planes are widely available and often considered collectors items.

The block plane has a blade placed bevel side up. Some models have an adjustable mouth to allow extremely thin shaving. I just hate to think of somebody leveling out a hardwood cutting board completely by hand. As one can tell from this table, the largest hand planes double the size of the smallest hand planes. If you have to plane a bathroom door like me you should prime and paint the bottom and top.