Planer Blades

Felissatti, Haffner, Hitachi, HolzHer, Kress, Mafell, Metabo, Nutool, Perles, Peugeot, Skil, Trend, Wolf / Kango. My much maligned Ozito compound mitre saw (300mm) has been accurately set up with everything squared up and can easily match cut quality with significantly more expensive items…. would i pick it up and throw it in the ute to take to a building site and expect it to still be aligned… in real life probably not, but for use at home it’s more than good enough.

Yeah I have a Ryobi circular saw that I (stupidly) left in the rain for a whole week, I just let it dry inside for a day and it still works like new. Part of the new Power Xchange series that lets you swap batteries between Ozito Power Xchange products. High Speed Steel planer blades to fit Makita, Hitachi and Ryobi planers and many other popular brands of 82mm electric planer such as Black Decker, Aichi and Skil. Invest in tungsten carbide blades and plane your way through nails, screws and old paint. All up, removal and replacement of both blades took about 10 minutes for the first attempt. They seem as good as some other Makita and much older Ryobi tools I have from times gone by.

I brought a Ryobi Hammer drill to finish that fence and sure it’s noisy as hell but it got the job done like a knife through butter. Re-sharpenable blades may be cheaper than a new set of disposables but they have to be reground to obtain a fresh edge, must be reset each time to account for loss of width by the grinding process, and there is a longer, more involved, changeover period. The most obvious indicator of a badly set blade is sniping, where a large scoop is taken out of the end of the board as you pass it over the planer. Be sure the bolt head is held secure, so that no damage will come to the planer.

The difference between a planer working well and working badly is minute in terms of blade adjustment. Browse our collection of planer diagrams and schematics for Delta Planers , Rockwell Planers , Ryobi Planers , and more. I will pass on the replacement from a similar broken machine as the problem came from age deterioration of the belt, I think I would just have the same problem. Changing the blades is as simple as loosening the 3 bolts with the spanner that is supplied in the box. If you make your final pass at the minimum depth of cut, then 2 blades will produce a nice finish.

Needless to say I replaced it with a Ryobi belt sander and that has endured the same work load I was using the Ozito for and has been for 2-3 years since without a problem. And often, what comes out of the saw requires a planer (or jointer AND planer) to clean up and square up. Stored in this way when not used, your planer will remain the same for years without dust or rust or dry cracks or discolorations. I’ve only used this electric planer a couple of times now on some reclaimed packing timber furniture projects, and overall I think the Ozito PLR-200 Electric Planer is a great little unit for any home handyman.

That being said, once I got a replacement tensioning knob, sharp replacement blades, and ditched the fence, it actually cuts (shapes, straight lines/joints, resawing wet Alder branches and resawing dry/seasoned jarrah) pretty damn well and I’m happy with it (again, for the price). There are a few reasons for my decision to buy an Ozito Power Tool from Bunnings Hardware The 2 biggest reasons being it’s affordability and it’s warranty. I don’t remember if I just took it back, or if it broke in some other way, or if I just threw it in the bin, but in the end I got a Ryobi sander.

We can throw a few points to Ryobi already because this machine requires virtually no assembly out of the box, except for attaching the crank handle for the raising/lowering mechanism of the cutterhead and attachment of the chip guard to the rear (outfeed side) of the machine using two screws and wing nuts. For the Ryobi saw, you must unplug the battery to disconnect the power to the trigger.

I think (read I may have read it years ago) that the manual only restricts the ozito drills to non-commercial use, it doesn’t say major/minor holes just you can’t use it 24/7 on a building site as your drill. Fitting the saw with the brand’s recommended standard tooth replacement chain (91PX) makes it handle better, but to my surprise, the saw cut faster and longer in my tests with the demanding PowerSharp chain. I just recently equipped my shop with a tablesaw, jointer, planer, lathe and big 12 x 48′ disc sander. The Ozito PLR-200 has a Chamfering groove that makes it easy to chamfer the edges on your woodworking projects.

The Black & Decker corded drill I bought over 10 years ago is still fine with the little use it has had – just heavy & of course needs an extension lead dragged around. It is still going well and tho I have a spare set of blades for it, which have never been used as I have honed the originals the machine has never let me down even now after reducing the cord to about a metre long after a couple of mishaps down the years. Altho not an Ozito, ive brought a Ryobi 18V Hedge Trimmer back to Bunnings a month after purchase as it failed on me & got a refund. However, I believe Harbor Freight does have 18v replacement batteries on sale at $10.

I’ve lately discovered that there is a chap on Ebay who sells the same IVA blades I bought from bunnies, at a fraction of the price. I have several mates who work as tilers or sparkys and they’ve all replaces their Makita gear with Ryobi once it died or got stolen/lost. Shaving a piece of wood fractions of an inch is the main thing that comes to mind. I suppose the the number of replies to the post is a good indication that an electric planer is not regarded very highly, therefore little use. For an electric planer however I don’t know, better to have something slightly more on the decent side.

Drop in (probably has another name) is due to blades set higher than the heel and if they are set lower than the heel it will hardly cut at all. The design of the tapered safety wedge means that the blades cannot fly out even if they become loose, so do not go mad with the tightening pressure. The PTO (Power Take Off) clutch provides a means of manually disconnecting the engine from the blades. Bandsaws found at Bunnings, for example, have a lousy 80mm ( Ryobi Bandsaw ) of cutting height.

Ozito cordless 18v drill is great for lighter jobs, actually easier to use as it is lighter than expensive ones. With the 2 blades on the AP13 and a No Load Speed of 8,000 revolutions per minute, you are getting 16,000 cuts per minute as it is. Probably sufficient for a board that you will likely be fine sanding later anyway. The perfect set blades allow for smooth, consistent, efficient planing and no drop in at the end of the cut once the toe is no longer supported by the stock. Even when motor and brushes and blades are fine; it’s still a dud unless you are having a replacement belt made as a one-off for a fortune.

It keeps the blades raised up off the ground and also prevents damage to the work surface when not in use. Planer is rarely used – primarily for starting in on rough cut boards to get a flat surface for the table saw, and to be able to see the grain in the same boards for choosing what to use. It has planed a fair bit of hardwood over the 10 or so years I’ve owned her, so recently I thought I’d put some new blades in her.

With the low-price and great replacement warranty, I think you should seriously think about giving this electric planer a go. I also have a Ozito drill but the batteries have died although it did last me around 5 years with light duty work. I borrowed a neighbours Ozito hammer drill when I was putting the wooden inserts in the brick fence a few years back and it lost the hammer function after 10 holes.

Back in 2006 I had been without a large table saw with power feed, that I had used for breaking down sheet material for 36 years, for almost 10 years. If the blades are very low the timber will jam as it hits the end of the outfeed table. I did not use Metabo tools since I left Switzerland about 10 years ago and what I remember from then, they were the toughest stuff you could buy but at times they lacked a bit of functionality, this planer is a bit different, it may be a bit lighter construction than the old Metabo’s but I found it very well designed.

The blades ship assembled and ready to go. So in less than say 5 minutes (the chip guard was a bit of a tight fit requiring a few attempts to get into position), the machine is ready for action. As I write this, saws from Makita, Oregon, Ryobi and Stihl were the only 36V class tools available for my testing. Im actually considering going back to corded power tools, as a no. of times now, its the battery that has failed on me not the tool itself & the replacement batterys arent cheap. When the blades are a lot too high they will leave a scoop in the end of the timber.

All my Ryobi stuff has been flawless so far, besides if it dies in a few years I can replace it with one with new technology for the same price. To keep them sharp, I’ve been using the Stanley 3 Piece Sharpening Set as it works great for plane blades as well. The maximum planing width of 318mm (or 12.5 inches) is fairly standard on these smaller portable machines and is sufficient for most widths of boards you will ever come across.

Hand planing simply takes too long and your handheld power planer is producing inconsistent results. Ozito CDL-018: 10 customer reviews on Australia’s largest opinion site 3.9 out of 5 stars for Ozito CDL-018 in Drills. The new Ozito Brushless Drill Driver is a great addition to any tool kit due to its durability and ease of use. The AP1300 has more features than the AP13 and, naturally, a higher price tag as well.

I picked up a Hitachi 82mm planer about 2 years ago for $99 and has been pretty good. The TS55 is designed to only work with blades similar to the kind supplied with it. There is no space for a blade much thicker than 3mm to return to the up position. I’ve bought a few Ozito products based on the fact that I can take it back to Bunnings and get a new one anytime it breaks for 3 years.