I have earned my living refinishing furniture for almost 35 years and what you want to do is reasonably easy. Hi Angie – If you want to paint the piece, not use black stain on it, you do not have to remove all the poly, but you do need to sand the surface to provide some tooth” so the paint has something to adhere to. You mentioned the piece has a lot of poly on it. If this is so, when painted over…you may see all the imperfections in the level of the poly.
Right now I’m looking at some raised grain after staining, and some uneveness..wondering if I can combine some steel wool work to remove just some uneveness and more stain around the edge…also, that deep glow from lacquer coating….most guys aren’t set up at home for spraying, but tung oil layers aftere a single linseed coating have a great look, but don’t expect the magic till after the 6th or 7th coating….
That said, any professional finisher should be able to get you to a dark black color without too much trouble. So for Interior woods such as doors, architrave and furniture you could have a look at Extra Tough Interior Varnish and for flooring you could look at the Extra Tough Floor Varnish I hope that helps and please let em know if you have any further questions – Sam. First, let’s look at ways to alter the chemicals (extractives) already present in wood.
I have made 5 picture frames, veneering each of the marine plywood carcasses with birds eye maple into which I have routed a channel to accept a black diamond patterned inlay banding. Iron staining, or ebonizing, generally uses a reaction between iron oxide and the natural tannins in wood to create a natural- looking black that is actually created in the fibers of the wood rather than a stain sitting on top.
If desired, apply a second coat of Waterborne Colorwood Rock Salt or Egg White and wipe off the excess leaving touches of white or cream limed stain behind to softer the base colour. Bleaching can also be used to even the color of a piece of furniture made with two or more woods. One treatment usually bleaches the wood completely, but if the wood isn’t light enough, treat it again. You just want light coats because all this is intended to do is seal the pores of the wood so it will take whatever stwin you are using evenly. You can then sand if needed and apply touch up wood floor stain using a paint brush.
If your cabinets are made of really hard, low-grain wood (eg maple), it’s good to brush on tap water within 24 hours before applying the first coat. Nothing beats a nice sanding, stain and refinish job but this is a great way to change up your furniture quickly & easily for fresh new look. I would suggest that multiple coats should get the job done – although I would point out that the chances of you getting 2 different species of wood to look anywhere near to the same in either color or texture is going to be a challenge. This experiment was done with pine so I have no idea how it will work with other species of wood. Your stain will look more even and you’ll be able to actually see what you’re doing.
I do this in sections, because if the stain sits on there too long, it’ll start drying and won’t leave a subtle antiqued finish. Also, when we tear out a carpet to install wood, oft times pet odor has gotten into the sub-floor (the ply wood or particle board underneath the carpet). You should see a reaction start taking place quickly, changing the color of the wood.