If you are using any of the smaller lunchbox” planers (bought at home depot, lowes, and similar hardware stores) chances are they only use replaceable/expandable blades (except for a select few like the older Dewalt 733 I believe) and as such cannot be sharpened. We sharpen spirals on a precision tool and cutter grinder to maintain hook angles and like new performance ¼ inch on up. I got my technique from James Krenov dialogue from the Inside passage school of fine woodworking.. T7 Tormek for a hollow grind, then a micro bevel..and touch up with a flat stone..eventually the hollow goes away and you start over. I was curious to see if a light honing on the blades would make them last longer. At Burns, our sharpening experts have been providing exceptional cutting edges since 1934. It is usually indicative of uneven hand pressure applied over the width of the sharpener.
Something is taking off the edge of the blades right away and causing the blades to leave small ridges in the boards. Set your micro-bevel angle with the adjusting screw, switch to a finer abrasive and hone the micro-bevel for each of the blades. Longer blades (like planer / jointer blades) present a unique challenge in sharpening, especially doing it freehand. I’ve know owners of old, belt driven planers to sharpen them with an angle grinder. I can do both sides of three blades in about 45 minutes or so. I will still have to buy replacement blades but not as often.
For many years I had my knives sharpened by a sharpening service, which usually meant I would go way too long with dull knives before dealing with it. When I finally started doing it myself (using wet sandpaper on a granite block with a holding jig), it was one of those rare oh my god” moments when I put them into use. The goal of sharpening is to get these two very smooth, flat surfaces to intersect.
The stone ring is about 1/4″ wider than the iron and I could make a jig for the blade to slide on the rail, although I’d likely only be sliding it that 1/4″. It takes a high degree of expertise to maintain the quality, finish and long-lasting nature of your specialized blades. Everytime you sharpen the blades you’d have to recalibrate all of the preset cut depth stops.
That’s just a standard operation with planer blades and not doing it is asking for a pounding planer and poor surface, so don’t worry about the blades coming back in different widths. That’s what’s always put me off – well, that, and the fact that the jig pays for loads of sharpenings at a doc’s (or indeed a fair few pairs of new blades for the even lazier) – and the time, and the large pah can’t be bothered I’ll send them off factor. It is just not apparent to me why Tormek would be so much better or worth so much more. Replying to Peggy’s question about using ceramic stones that are normally used for hunting knives.
This holds the blades in place while you turn the jig upside down and sharpen the blades on sandpaper over glass. HSS is so much harder than hand tool steel if you decide to go the sandpaper router buy some of the zirconia paper. This is not the case with the other Tormek jigs, where your hand decides where the grinding occurs and the depth of grinding. The most common sharpening choices are either waterproof sandpaper or sharpening stones.
After careful initial setting of the angle by adjusting the length of the bearing arm, sharpening is simply a matter of olling the blade forward and back across the paper with light pressure. I think you may have a poor quality knife sharpening service that has drawn the temper out of your knives. The way I produce these single facets on planer knives, jointer knives, chisels and plane irons makes secondary bevels unnecessary.
Mainland customers kindly note all sales are ex our door, in the past customers have found E-Go the most cost effective, if you are further interested we can advise the relevant information for using this freight service. If there are chips or nicks, you may not be able to take them out without grinding away too much material leaving your blades unable to clear the cutterhead. With the Tormek Planer Blade Attachment SVH-320 you will always work with sharp planer blades. That said, the sharpened blades sliced through hard wood leaving a SUPER smooth surface.
As for keeping the same blade width, any time the blades come off they have to be set with the guide/setting jig. I don’t think that planer and jointer knife grinding alone can make for a financial justification for the Tormek compared with just sending those knives out (I’m staying out of how you value your time). Now that I have decent chisels, I need to take good care of them and you’ve just demystified the whole process of sharpening with stones and made it simple for me.