How To Install Kitchen Wall Cabinets

Remove all appliances: stove, oven, refrigerator, dishwasher and other appliances. When you have hung and levelled a wall cabinet, mark the central hole in each corner bracket on to your wall through the back panel. Shelf will be coming down, wall cabinets are white, base cabinet is now painted white, walls will be painted (probably BM Northampton Putty), hardware will be added. We recommend that you screw fix each cabinet to the adjoining cabinet by screwing behind each hinge plate when cabinets are clamped together.

For the purposes of this project we are fitting two units with hanging brackets at each side and two (horizontal) units which screw directly to the wall. The cabinet is easy to care for and can be wiped with a dry or damp cloth to keep it clean. If using a base lazy susan cabinet, apply a 1 x 2 strip to the wall at the proper height to support the countertop. Then I cut a 2×4 to the length of the distance between the studs and screwed it to the top of the leveled pieces attached to the studs. To position the wall plates, measure down 60mm from your 2070mm or 2250mm lines to give you the height line for all plates.

We’re going to finish off our cabinets with the same crown molding that matches the rest of the house, so we had to account for the height that would add, as well as the fact that the cabinets attach to the rail a few inches down from the top of the cabinet. If you don’t install kitchen cabinets square and level it will be impossible to get the doors to all line up nicely at the end. But how you fix the brackets to the wall really depends on what kind of wall you have.

The cabinet frames aren’t very heavy (at least without shelves or doors yet) so it was easy enough for one person to hoist them up and place them on the bolts (Sherry did one herself without any sweating or cursing). To turn a corner with a run of cabinets, you’ll need to fit a corner post – otherwise there’ll be an ugly gap. Clamp the filler strip in place and drill 3/16-inch pilot holes through the cabinet face frame and filler strip, using a countersink bit to recess the screw head into the face frame. First, you’ve got yourself a great new medicine cabinet that, after a 60-day probationary period, will totally hold your junk!

The plugs are like rivets and are strong enough to take the weight of a kitchen cabinet as well as all the tins of food/plates etc. Clearance holes, which are the same diameter as the screw, ensure that the cabinet will be drawn tight to the wall by the head of the screw. When I’m fixing the kitchen wall cabinets to a plasterboard wall I always use the Rawlplug setting tool This is pretty much the strongest fixing you can get in hollow cavities like plasterboard if you can’t fix straight into a stud (for cabinets with cleats you may have no control over where they need fixing).

A sideways wall mount rack gives protection with the snap on cover, while still allowing access to the face of your equipment. Cabinets are 30 inches and that leaves about 2 inches between washer door and bottom of cabinets so not a problem for me. There is also a soffit above the cabinets so that would leave you 12 inches I suppose to place something on cabinet tops. We bought some very inexpensive but beautiful face-frame kitchen cabinets at a store that sells recycled building materials, but nobody we’ve talked to agrees on the size and type of screw for attaching them to each other or to the wall.

You’ll then need to attach each base to the wall with two brackets Start by marking the drilling positions in pencil on the wall and cabinet. I removed the free-standing rack I was content with using for 22 years and we installed two wall cabinets above the washer and dryer. If your cabinet is under 24 inches, you can probably install it without an assistant. Ater you have located the studs, mark the position of the cabinet sides on the wall so that the cabinet crosses as many studs as possible.

The key is, after you have determined what the maximum gap above the cabinet will be, decide how you will cover it. If it’s up to 3/16″ you could consider caulk. Starting with a corner cabinet, put together the base units and move them into place. What also probably helped is that it’s a wall to wall run, so both sides can be fastened as well as the back.

In a long shallow cabinet snugged tight to the wall most of the load will be in shear if the molly is snug in the hole it fits in. It will bear in the plane of the drywall since the cabinet gables transfer the shelf load to mostly downward load on the back. A clever way to make the most of kitchen drawers is by organizing them diagonally so all the utensils fit.

Here’s a hint for hanging the cabinet – secure a 1×2 strip of wood the length of the cabinet, to the wall studs right below where you want to hang your cabinet – be sure it is level. NOTE:When installing a blind wall cabinet, make sure the cabinet is pulled out from the wall the appropriate distance as called for in your kitchen plan. While holding the cabinet in position, drill pilot holes for screws, or larger holes for toggle bolts, through the mounting rail (the wooden strip running horizontally across back of the cabinet near the top) or along the area of the back that extends above the top of some cabinets. Tip: It’s easier to hang your upper cabinets before installing your lower cabinets.

This cabinet is extremely heavy, and you have no idea what your wall is made of. Chances are excellent you are about to fail in a tremendously damaging way. Now, pretty much everything that I’m going to be talking about right now is designed to go into this type of wall material. Unless this is an extraordinary cabinet or contents the loaded weight will likely be south of 75 lbs. Their specs call for wall toggles to hold the desk and shelves standards to the walls.

I have fitted many wall cabinets on plasterboard (including my own) and if you use metal plasterboard fixings (not butterfly bolts) you will have no problems. The worktop will sit on top of the kitchen base units so add in the measurement for your chosen kitchen worktops, before measuring up the distance you are going to allow between worktop and wall unit. Choose the less noticeable cabinet of the two for drilling and placing the screw head. Perfect for a relaxed country style home, this cabinet has clean lines and concealed hinges.

Once I had my mark (which I made in the center of that back wall) I drew a line across the rest of the wall with my level. I ordered 3 of these not sure of what the quality was going to be but was pleasantly surprised to find a high quality cabinet that is made in the USA. Would try minimum 5.0 by 65mm screws, longer if the plaster is thick and / or the cabinet has a solid back rather than thin ply,mdf etc.

Space between the studs got wider and the lath was spaced wherever the worker thought was ok. So, I stick to my position to find the stud. Only thing that I noticed was that the doors are of a slightly different material than the rest of the cabinet. Secure the wall frieze on the wall so that its top edge is flush with the line that you have spent on the wall. That way once you get them on the wall the drilling is done and it is just a matter of bolting them together, something that is easy on your own with the batten on the wall for them to sit on too.

One of the first things I knew would help the house sell was installing wall cabinets above the washer and dryer. Actually putting the kitchen units together requires that you know the basics of how and why you are doing what you are told to do by the instructions. This is important as it could affect the final design of your kitchen, and the size of the cabinets you’re able to hang.

And it is glorious how smoothly this whole operation went for us. Considering this was our very first cabinet-hanging adventure (unless you count that time in the old kitchen when the cabinet fell off the wall one night while I was putting the dishes away and we had to re-attach it), we were pleasantly surprised at how easy this was. Hanging a large wall cabinet is a two-person job, so make sure you have help so you can ensure it hangs safely and securely on the wall. On plasterboard , use plasterboard fixings Drill a pilot hole into the cabinet and secure the bracket with a 15mm screw.

Once the units are in position the bracket positions can be marked on the wall like above. Supporting 200 lbs this rack allows you to vertically hang your equipment for very low cost. However, there are no studs in the wall behind it. Google wasn’t much of a help because the only advice I’ve been able to find is to attach the cabinet to others that are mounted to a stud which obviously doesn’t help me since I am trying to only hang a single cabinet. Make sure you read the instructions through completely before you start to put the kitchen cupboard together.

Using the outline you created on the wall, measure the distance from the cabinet edge to the stud and transfer this to the cabinet. While the cabinet is attractive and functional, it would be improved by the addition of caps for the four screw holes at the top as well as better alignment of the door. Every cabinet should be secured by at least three screws that penetrate the wall framing by at least 1 1/2 inches. Luckily, our kitchen is kind of small, so we don’t have more than two cabinets on each wall.

Once the wall brackets are fixed you can fix the cupboard hanging brackets inside the cupboard. When installed, the wings open out at right angles to the bolt, allowing the bolt to be fastened tightly against the wall covering. So the laundry room felt like a perfect lower-risk test space to learn the process and to help us determine if we want to go this route in the kitchen down the line. I then measure down from my level line 16½” in each corner of the room, connecting the dots by snapping chalk lines in between. The above shot is the plan after the kitchen expert at Ikea helped us fine-tune things.