Outdoor wood furniture can be a beautiful addition to any outdoor space, but it requires regular upkeep. Overlooked beauty Traditionally valued for its strength and durability the beauty of this wood has often been overlooked. Spraying the furniture with a power washer or high pressure hose not only removes dirt and debris, but often removes excess flaking of the original finish. Also, linseed oil-based finishes aren’t the best for woods like Padauk , Purpleheart , or Cocobolo (if you like the color of the wood as-is, this isn’t the finish to use; light-colored woods will yellow, and colorful woods age/darken much faster). Remove furniture or place it in the centre of the room and cover with drop sheets.
Our aim was to pick a representative from each type of exterior finish rather than several marine varnishes or several spar varnishes etc. Sanding is the most important thing in surface preparation – especially when a clear finish is wanted. Krylon Dual saves a step on both bare wood and metal since it primes and paints in one easy step. Stacking designs are also a boon if you need to move the furniture out of the way to make the most of your outdoor space.
The best choice for a natural look is to use clear sign overcoat, on top of semi-transparent sign lettering enamel. The waxy natural skin of the bamboo will normally prevent a stain from adhering; however, since you’ve already sanded it, a urethane stain is probably your best bet. Mahogany can be glued with standard wood glues, holds fasteners well, and machines and finishes very easily. After two years of testing, its apparent that two-part varnishes are the most durable type of exterior wood finish. But even the best ones need a routine reapplication just as often as film-formers, and do little to guard the wood surface from dirt and wear.
We hope the comparison enables readers to decide which finish best matches their own taste, potential labor investment, and wood protection needs. Glue and Finish: Most standard furniture is made with interior glues and finishes that are meant for climate-controlled buildings. Not sure what I’d recommend for an outdoor piece of furniture would apply to a deck, given the additional surface area and abuse. They don’t let visible wood grain show through (a drawback to most people), though peeling is not a problem.
Log Cabin Treatments Update, maintain or revive your log cabin with these clear and colour oils and wood preservers. Varnish was simply the best product available for exterior finishing during the … All automotive paint companies produce a catalyzed urethane for clear coats. The truth is, though, that shielding wood from the elements without resorting to an opaque blanket of paint is not that easy. I was going to leave the fence either unfinished or just stained, but now I’ll probably paint it, after a good coat of borate.
A good quality wax polish with added beeswax will gently lift and remove grime, and then leave a hard protective coating with a natural sheen The traditional wax has no added oils, colour or perfume. If the furniture you’re working on has non-metal surfaces, such as a seat on a chair, remove them if possible. A 3 coat finish should keep the surface color looking great for 2 to 4 years (depending on local conditions).
They’ll provide a hard-wearing finish without obscuring the colour, grain and texture of exterior timbers such as Cedar and Oregon. Oil finishes don’t provide a protective film that sits on top of the wood like varnish does. Trying to match a stain that’s on existing trim is difficult, especially if the trim is more than a few years old. The furniture is at least as ready to accept a finish as typical milled house siding or wood decking. This opens up the pores, removes scratches and reveals the true color of the wood.
Generally, a transparent wood stain will last between one to three years before it needs to be refinished. The downside of this finish is that it leaves the wood feeling like it has a thick plastic coating on it. Good for hardwood floors that need the protection, but maybe not for furniture that you want to feel silky smooth. To paint chairs with a brush takes time and patience and if not done properly, can leave plenty of brush stokes. Oak is a hard and decorative wood with a particularly attractive figure in quarter-sawn material.
Tung oil, made from a tropical nut, is commonly used in commercial finished like danish oil which is basically a mix of tung oil (expensive) with white spirit (cheap) the white spirit makes the oil thinner and helps it penetrate the wood. Please note that the paint build up between the seat and the seat front frame may increase the tightness when trying to reassemble the Adirondack chairs.
But I have learned that the combination of the ultra-violet rays of the sun, unexpected summer thunderstorms, snow and sleet — not to mention lemonade, tree sap and bird droppings — can take its toll on unprotected wood. Spraying leaves a flawless finish and because you can line all the chairs up and do them together…it takes much less time. When I paint wooden things for outdoor use I use Interlux PreKote Primer and either Epifanes Monourethane or Bootlak or Interlux Brightside Polyurethane. Wood color: If you leave your Adirondack chairs unstained, eventually the cedar will fade to a soft silver color (the grey/silver color of drift wood).
Laquer is a quick drying finish that is most typical on commercial furniture and cabinets today. I agree with Virgin Islands testing, Have had sample of Awlgrip clear in Florida sun for 5 years and none of the other finishes came close in performance. The flexible coat is not as likely to crack from seasonal wood movement caused by humidity extremes in an outdoor environment.
Since these finishes are not transparent, they resist UV break-down better than tinted, film-forming products, while also protecting against surface cracking of wood. By reducing the slip resistance of the furniture, items are more likely to glide across the finish instead of scratching it. Wax will also add a nice shine to the finish by filling in small scratches in the underlying protective finish. Special thank to Brook from Being Brook for sharing her tutorial on how she gets this beautiful finish every time!
While an oil finish doesn’t really add a protective coating on the wood like the other finishes we’ve been discussing it does protect the wood in other ways. By comparision, I finished an outdoor mahogany picnic table with 4-6 coats of Sikkens Cetol with a cedar tint in 1995 and never touched it again. Always read the labels and follow the paint manufacturer’s instructions for the best finish.
You can find a local store that sells this stain by entering your zip code on the Sikkens website – or you can use a similar oil based stain (be sure to compare UV ratings as not all stains provide that protection). Achieving an even, blotch-free finish on fine-grained woods like cherry, maple, birch, pine and fir requires extra steps we won’t cover here. However, the penetration of the oil tends to intensify the natural beauty of the wood.
Oil-based stains , on the other hand, take longer to dry so they work better for more intricate projects that require detail and finesse; however, oil-based stains require proper ventilation and only come in the traditional wood tones. The UV abuse had obviously taken its toll, sucking the life out of most of the coatings, particularly the clear finishes.
If you wait a few years to refinish your Treated Adirondack chairs you will have a bit more work to do to get that beautiful original finish back. It is ok to use chalk/mineral paint on metal, however any rust or flaky metal MUST be removed prior. Avoid it. Automobile finishes will last well outside, but may not flex sufficiently to deal with outdoor expansion/contraction of wood. The standard for refinishing wood floors today is 3 coats of oil-based polyurethane. Leave the wood lying flat during the finish application and while it dries afterward.
However, the slow drying time that aids the application is also a drawback, as it allows more time for dust to settle into the finish. It is once again becoming popular for outdoor fencing, gates, furniture and features especially in urban areas – both because there is no painting or maintenance requirements and also because of its high resistance to vandalism (cutting, sawing and burning). The finish can’t hold on and move with the degraded surface and is eventually breached.
Again, harmful UV rays are the nemesis of all coatings, so the more you are able to keep your furniture out of the sunlight, the longer you can expect your furniture’s finish to remain intact. Water doesn’t have to seep into the wood to pry off the finish, water is already in there. It makes an excellent finish for furniture or other items that receive a lot of use – or abuse.
The rotating top platens allow the operator to have easy access to all sides of the wood item throughout the various wood finishing processes such as sanding, painting and sealing. For outdoor furniture, one of the specialised Garden Furniture Finishes is the answer, in either solid or see-through colour. It is my favorite indoor finish and I even used it on the douglas fir floors when I refinished it. While the floors held up great, the outdoor work didn’t weather well in all of the areas exposed to a lot of direct sunlight. It generally dries faster and doesn’t require clean-up since no paint brushes are involved.
To me it seems like an opportunity to shed some light on what seems a very gray area and the article only scratches the surface by missing some readily available coatings, possibly including the pigment free paint base idea! Maintenance: Re-coating every few years should keep the finish looking fresh, but continues to build the thickness of the film. The biggest overall decline was within the one-part varnish test group: Not a single one rated better than Fair for coating integrity or gloss retention, and nearly half of the test field was retired after this rating round.