Recommended for sealing the ends of freshly cut green lumber to control checking and splitting. This is done by turning the pieces relatively thin and relatively even, insuring that the wood below the surface dries at a rate similar to that at the surface. The price you pay for wood can truly have a negative affect on the salability of your work. In softwoods, reaction wood forms on the underside of a branch or trunk, and is called compression wood. It is very important to seal the underside of a porch floor or deck The best method is to seal the bottom side of boards and end grain cuts before construction.
Before applying a stain in that kind of climate, new and previously stained wood are both typically treated with a mildew wash consisting of chlorinated bleach, water, and possibly an additive that increases the bleach’s effectiveness. This is to ensure that if checking occurs, there is still enough wood left to utilize the full diameter of the log. Leaching problems must be resolved for borate treatment to substitute for CCA pressure-treated wood.
My favorite carving wood is catalpa-it carves easily, shrinks little, and has a peppery sweet smell when carved-then basswood for ease of working-then butternut(which is getting hard to find) for small carvings try black cherry and any of the plums. Heart shakes tend to get larger as the wood dries so it is best to remove any heart shakes or defects at the centre of the log by cutting either side of the defects to yield split-free pieces which are likely to dry without further loss.
We don’t use walnut in the UK because of the nut allergy thing, it surprises me that people do not feel it is an issue in the US. I dont use paraffin wax, its melted candle wax I use and it really does have to sizzle when you put the wood in. Recently my gas bottle was running out and the last of the wood I was sealing the wax wasnt so hot and 1 of the logs has split. The roughed-turned blanks can be dried pretty quickly compared with trying to dry large, solid bowl blanks, and there’s probably no single better way to gain skills than to rough-turn green wood. The only time I find it isn’t the best choice is when I want to burn my finnish on. The sealer is toxic and highly flamable.
The most probable answer is that the untreated areas on the rough sawn blanks continued to dry at a rapid pace vs. the sealed areas, causing a steep moisture gradient to form on the exposed and untreated end grain surfaces. One of the common concerns in using a conventional wood sealant is the impact any potential arsenic in the product has on your health. Sanding opens the pores of wood to accept stain, and also removes loose or deteriorated wood fiber that generally leads to premature coating failure and poor results.
When possible, use a water-based sealer or natural oil for your wood finishing project (see The Green Guide buying guide link below). It is required that this information be available to persons using Inorganic Arsenical Pressure-Treated Wood (CCA), Pentachlorophenol Pressure-Treated Wood, Creosote Pressure-Treated Wood. This small stack of Buckthorn (Rhamnus cathartica) half-logs has just been cut, stacked, stickered, and sealed with a water-based wax emulsion coating.
It is this 1-2 area of heart wood surrounding the pith that is generally the culprit that causes bowls to crack and split. In the past, I have dried wood with only one coat of sealer but decided this much free walnut was worth the effort of a second coat. Yes, there is some very pretty wood inside just waiting for you to clean it up. To some people, it’s only good for a fence post, but if you are making small parts, there is plenty of beautiful red/pink wood inside those old grey logs.
Have read of folk making their own sealer by dissolving polystyrene foam in thinners and painting that goo on. Coal tar pitch and coal tar pitch emulsion are effective sealers for creosote-treated wood block flooring. I think a quart goes for about 10 bucks and a gallon around 20 or so. I’ve used other sealers (can’t remember brand Lowes & Home Depot)) on green & treated wood for decks but not the Woodcraft brand. Three waxes were sent to us by Homestead House to sample as a wood sealer/finisher: Furniture wax, antiquing wax, and white wax.
When turning end grain bowls and vase forms, very little movement takes place, especially if you choose wood away from the pith/heartwood, so what you take off of the lathe is generally what you end up with. Holes are drilled in the wood and the rods are inserted according to manufacturers calculations that considers the size of the wood and the amount of boric acid needed to protect the wood.
As woodturners, our goal is not to prevent moisture from moving through the log or the wax coating, but instead to retard the rate of moisture evaporation. For use as a protective coat on colorless primed wood or after pretreatment with Aglaia Wood Glaze. Most of what I use at work is white oak and poplar, poplar is pretty much a utility grade wood like pine, but it has few knots, no sap and works well, but the color variations range from near white to dark with huge black areas, some green, grey streaks etc. A gallon costs around $20 but coats out LOTS of wood so this is not a big expense.
As the wood treatment oil has been discontinued in the local IKEA store here and I had to buy a pricey one from ACE hardware. Anchorseal2 is a hybrid sealer that contains renewable, natural ingredients so there is less petroleum based material used in production. Brush copper naphthenate wood preservative into any cracks that develop anywhere on the fence post.
Spray-On: If you will be processing a large amount of squares or logs, or you are working with very large diameter (2′ to 6′ diameter or more) logs, consider spraying the sealer. If buying CCA treated wood in the winter (and the wood was treated in the winter), use extra care in handling and applying since leaching of the CCA is possible, posing an environmental and health risk.
Because this is a stain and sealer the viscosity was thicker and a little more challenging to work with. I have over the course of a week left the wood in my house to dry enough so it is damp and not wet. We also tested most with the various natural wood stains we were reviewing in case this showed us any differences. The dry film of Anchorseal 2 is soft enough to be scraped off the wood easily when it’s ready to be used. Some of the blanks have bark along the corners and while I did try to get sealer in those crevices, the bark itself retards drying so I did not spend a lot of time on those spots.
The reason an oil finish, such as tung oil, or linseed oil works well is the very very slow drying time allows the oil to incorporate into the pores of the wood replacing moisture. I tried beeswax on end grain, but it interfered with finishing and I had to cut off impregnated wood. Scrapers tend to cause tear out.) During this phase of roughing out, examine the wood carefully for any checks or cracking. Not sure what your procedure is, but generally turning green wood is done in two phases: first a bowl is rough turned to approximate shape, leaving 1/2″ to 1″ wall thickness (more or less depending on overall size).
Even if you succesfully poly over ithe green stuff, 5-10% of the contaminants will get past the poly. Cutting wet produces less dust, creates larger shavings which are easier to clean up. Sanding is easier, since most of he dust does not stay airborne as long, wood is softer and cuts faster, and wood can be wet sanded, which creates no dust at all. Correct application procedures are essential to obtain maximum protection from the wax coating.
Natural oils penetrate wood to protect it from within and so do not protect the surface as well as varnish or lacquer, but still offer moderate water resistance and are environmentally sound because they contain few additives and are less processed than most finishes. None of the three waxes left any gloss or sheen and instead gave a nice natural effect to the wood, bringing out its grain and conditioning it. They only thing that may be a drawback is how often it needs to be applied if you’re using it as a natural wood sealer. Ammoniacal copper quatenary (ACQ) is a new wood preservative currently being introduced.
Much like the pith itself, juvenile wood is very unstable, and has an elevated rate of longitudinal shrinkage; this increased shrinkage rate pulls against the mature wood and causes it to contract and deform either along the face of the board (bow), or along the side of the board (crook). Whenever possible I’d probably opt for the oil finish or the basic furniture wax first, simply because they are by far the most eco-friendly choice. Water repellents that contain a small amount of wood preservative are called, not surprisingly, water-repellent wood preservatives.
Due to the tornado that came only a couple of days after this shipment arrived, the Anchoeseal 2 has been put to use as we salvaged good pieces of turning wood out of the debris. Be warned: End grain is more difficult to turn than face grain, and end-grain bowls have a greater tendency to crack than face-grain bowls. Additionally, when the wood dries, the shrinkage of the heartwood surrounding the pith sometimes causes the growth rings to bulge out. If your time frame for turning is extended, dont bother cutting the wood into turning blanks until you need them.