I don’t like grooving small drawer and tray parts at the router table or tablesaw. It is also taper both ways, which ensures that it will fit against the escapement side of the throat to ensure there is no gap for shavings to sides of the plane have fences to keep the plane centered on the stock, allowing a maximum of 7/8″ thick material to be used. A homebuilt utility airplane design for the occasional pilot who wants to enjoy fun flying with confidence.
You might be surprised, but if you look at the mouth on my plane from the sole-side with the iron set for a nice light shaving you can’t see any actual opening. Sharpen the plane irons according to their instructions, then assemble the cap iron to each blade, leaving about 1/32 in. exposed at the cutting edge. The plane body should be assembled on a flat surface, and you’ll want to complete the dry-assembly described below to ensure that everything fits as intended.
Inspired by custom details, craftsmanship and the architectural styles of the past—including Shingle, Mission and English Tudor—all Visbeen plans are nonetheless designed for modern living, with open spaces, convenient kitchens and family-friendly floor plans. Test glide using shallow gentle hand launches, add or remove Plasticine until a flat shallow glide is achieved.
Each one of these takes me about 4 or 5 minutes in the steel, and a bit less in the brass, so on this plane I spent a bit under 2 hours cutting and filing the dovetails. A small but fast-growing collection of old-time modeller books and periodicals, held online as PDF files for free download. After a fit check and some wood filler she added a couple coats of bright red exterior paint which really set it off. Now you can shape the completed plane body to your individual taste with rasps, files and sandpaper.
An alternative solution would be to back the iron out very slightly and again set the wedge, then take the plane to sandpaper on a known flat surface. The location for the counterbored pivot holes on each side of the plane can now be marked out, making accurate reference to the drawing to ensure that the holes are made in exactly the right position. I first drill a 1 mm hole and then tap the panel pin home, in order to be able to take the plane apart easily afterwards.
I enjoyed making the plane and found your plans and instructions very accurate / helpful. I purchased plans for the biplane rocker off you last year (I think Sept or Oct), with the aim of making the plane for my son for his first birthday in mid January. I simply used the replacement cutter for the Lee Valley plane, to make my rabbet plane. The other side is being considered just the purpose of making a small rabbet plane.
IMHO, the original box that I have with the simple rabbeted top was not very useful in the way the plane fits in it, since you can’t see all the parts once they are in the box. Please find attached some photos ( of the plane ) for possible inclusion in your gallery. David Barron Scraper Plane – For fine finishing making something like this from used razor blades would work well. I will return every turning to make a few passes to keep me sharp and catch free. Mount one of the plane bodies in a clamp and use a rasp to shape the back-end profile.
Set the plane pieces up on the surface, verifying one last time the earlier triangle mark matches on all pieces. You can view model plans by category tag (like say free flight, control line, radio control, scale, rubber, etc…) using the browse plans pages. Using hand planes isn’t a science, but there’s certainly an art to it. And there is no better workshop experience that will teach you more about how to set up, adjust, and use a bench plane than making one. If you are making the single wing plane, you can split the wood into two pieces now.
V-tail mixing, needed for such full-scale aircraft designs as the Beechcraft Bonanza , when modeled as RC scale miniatures, is also done in a similar manner as elevons and flaperons. Having used these old jointers in the past I always found them too cumbersome to hold comfortably with blades that were approximately 65mm wide so I wanted to make something with a narrower blade which would allow it to be easily gripped with the left hand.
The plans call for about 6 board feet of wood, and the final dimensions are 8 inches deep, 21 1/4 inches wide and 13 inches tall. Cutting the mouth on a smoothing plane on the other hand requires a very tight opening and thus much more precision both for creating the mouth and floating the blade bed to keep the mouth narrow. Building time is cut by extensive use of sheet balsa to exploit the no-pin advantage of CA, and use of Sig Additional Information: replacement parts. Cut the fuselage from 5 mm balsa sheet (hard), cut it accurately as there is incidence built into the wing seat.
Smaller balsa kits will often come complete with the necessary parts for the primary purpose of non-flying modeling or rubber band flight. Laminating the plane makes it much easier to construct and doesn’t require any specialized woodworking tools. When the wood is on all sides angular and the sole side is fixed, it is the bark side,the wood is drawn and sliced.
The LeeValley page says the Muji plane is prone to chatter due to the lack of support from the wedge further down. This plane can be adapted to taste by altering the various parameters without changing the basic making method, and of course there’s no need to have an adjustable mouth. Make the oblong brass plate, photo 18, then rout out the front of the plane to the correct depth. The project only uses about 10 board feet of wood, so I’ll probably use a wood I’ve never used before. The great thing about a wooden jack plane is that the sole doesn’t have to be ultra flat to work really well.
For some reason, a router just does not work right for me. It either burns the wood or hops around or bounces off the guide. Remember to keep watch on the chamfer size as you work towards your target shape, as it will shrink with additional wood removal. Now the plane is ready for the first test shavings and for the final finishing and the surface treatment. To seal the wood we applied a penetrating finish of several coats of boiled linseed oil. Just sending a photo of my first attempt at one of your plans which I made for a grandson for Christmas. Designed by Stephen Scotto, the P-51D uses traditional built-up construction and employs balsa and plywood throughout.
In order to drill the opposing hole for the cross-pin, I assembled the plane using small Bessey f-style clamps to keep the various pieces in place, while fixing it with very small panel pins as shown. By the way, if anyone here in the States wants to find some maple for plane bodies, I managed to find 3x3x12 and 2x2x12 pieces labelled as spindle blanks for turning.
This plane has an adjustable mouth so the next stage is to machine a groove in the front block for the studding, photo 5, and drill a 15mm hole for the mouth locking bolt, dimensions for which can be obtained from the sectioned drawing. Spread glue on one of the cheeks, keeping the glue about 1/8 in. back from the layout lines for the body blocks, so that squeeze-out is minimal in the central cavity of the plane.
Popular maxims say that the radial plane of the wood should be oriented towards the sides of the plane. Without a doubt, the spill plane is the biggest crowd pleaser at demonstrations, especially when attendees get to make their own spill. This RC sound unit use’s no speakers and features today’s technology to give the most accurate and loudest sounds possible! I have more trouble in the dry winter weather getting nice spills, because the wood is not as flexible, and tends to split. The airplane plans will be more detailed than the assembly drawing that is usually supplied with most kits. Push the plane down the board, with one side of the plane just barely on the board.
It has all balsa and ply construction, and the engine cowl is made from balsa and foam covered with glass cloth and epoxy resin. The plane was used as any wooden plane would be, using straight grained scraps of wood about 12 inches long. If you don’t have a PDF reader Adobe Acrobat is a free software that will make it viewable and printable. The lower angle of the blade on the LN shoulder plane makes it a better choice, plus it has an adjustable mouth and the depth can be adjusted very finely. Each pass produces a spill, so named for the way the chip spills” out of the escapement hole in the side of the plane.
I found these facts hard to believe at the time, but now I think it more a truth than a falsehood, primarily because the plane soles on longer planes definitely move, no matter the maker, and the patina I see on a beech-bodied plane made in the early 1800’s didn’t happen in a year or two but more like at least ten, twenty, thirty, forty and more. Attaching the firewall bulkhead to the fuselage, joining wing panels, gluing the tail plane to the fuselage. We are also putting up another free two-part video series on making winding sticks starting next week so you may want to catch that one too.
They were gradually superseded throughout the late 19th and 20th centuries by the emergence of the cast-iron, fully adjustable, Bailey-pattern plane made popular by Record and Stanley. We do have plans for a couple of videos using the techniques I use at the bench when I draw stuff for the blog or the books I’m currently illustrating and indeed my journals too. Click here to visit VinPlanDex – the online index of RCGroups vintage plans thread 1265873.
Breland and Farmer Designers credit their success to meticulously drawn plans that are designed for practicality, balance, proportion, and detail. When an airplane is in a small to moderate bank (roll angle) a small amount of ‘back pressure’ is required to maintain height. I am just saying that you can take the extra effort to shape the sole to receive the whole frog if you wish so as to retain the frog for interchangeability using both the original metal-cast plane and your new wooden ones. The small block plane allows you change direction easier than a smoothing plane.