It’s not that difficult to attach a wood handrail post to a concrete walk, patio or porch slab. The bottom of the newel is positioned over the upwardly extended bracket screw and rotated so as to cause the screw to enter into the newel post. With the two Post stood in the holes the 900mm height of the Handrail should now be marked on to the Blocks at the top of the Posts. First cut one Spindle to length, this is best done by cutting the angle on the bottom and sit it on the Baserail tight up against a Newel Post and then mark the angle under the Handrail. The final step is to add another piece of quarter-round to the bottom of the post to hide the screws. Use a wrench to tighten the bolts or lag screws that fasten the post to the joist.
Because you are drilling end grain it’s not the easiest hole to drill and you need to constantly check as you go that you are dead straight because if the hole is wonky the new post will be too! If I were attaching that newel post, I would still try to figure out a way to gain access to a floor joist for attaching the replacement. I hate those hardware gadgets like key-locks and the ones that attach to the sides of the newels because I find they often make plumbing the newels difficult. The Angle Bracket Newel Post Fastener is another simple newel post installation method.
With the Rope giving the pressure you can now insert your Saw between the Shoulder and the Post and trim the Shoulder to give a perfect joint, if the Handrail is too long just cut again until you lose the 4mm that was added on previously. This method is a little more secure than the previous but has a very similar finished look with the moulding at the bottom of the post where it meets the finished floor or shoe plate. It might seem logical to make the treated support posts line up perfectly with the cedar newel posts, but that can create more work than is necessary In the above picture, the cedar newel posts were mounted on the inside of the rectangle formed by the framing lumber.
This is something you can check before you cut off the old post and try to compensate a little when drilling so the new post is closer to level, but there’s rarely much in it. At the top, or on a level landing, the rail is fixed by screwing through the newel posts; the screw hole is counter bored 12mm and plugged with a cross grain plug, which gives an almost invisible fixing. If you are joining two cut deck boards together in a long run, screw them down at an angle 10mm from the end of each board to securely fix them to the joist beneath.
It was going to be $900 for two new craftsman style newel posts and square ballisters. Here again, as with the ledger we have used some stainless steel washers in order to space the newel post 10mm away from the wall. Rotation of the newel post continues until the bottom of the newel post contacts the floor or tread and is squared for joining of the rail member.
Use a center finder attachment for your square to mark the dead center point on the bottom of the newel post. We’ve finished drilling all of our baluster holes but before we set the balusters in place, we have to first attach the hand rails. If, as you stated, you have solid framing where the newel will be located, this is the perfect installation system. If a banister wobbles, first check to see if the newel posts, the large vertical posts at the top and bottom of the staircase, are loose. Then drop the newel post over the foundation box, and run screws horizontally through it into the foundation box.
Drive the screws into the pre-drilled holes and through the bracket on the bottom of the newel post, this time installing the newel for good. Make a minus sign on the opposite side of the newel post and the opposite side on the floor. Obviously the best fixing would be to lap it over an existing floor joist but if you have a concrete floor obviously there isnt one. An alternative to screwing hand rails to the newel post is to use traditional handrail bolts , we are happy to supply these along with full instructions for their use. Adjust as needed with wooden shims placed under the newel post base until the level shows that you have positioned the post upright.
It is further an objective of this invention to provide means of attaching newel posts to the floor or other appropriate surface such that additional millwork for concealing the means of attachment is unnecessary. With the Glue applied and your helper holding one Post and you holding the other put the Posts on to the ends of the Handrails and then lower both Posts in to the Holes of the Base Posts. In either case the geometry of stairs is regulated by the building codes and you should consult with your local building official. The flat section on the new post (on right) was much higher than the century-old porch post.
This invention relates to the joining of a newel post to the floor or tread of a stair, and the joining of a stair rail to the newel post by means which are not visible after the members are joined. This deck has the handrails fitted on the inside of the deck and also has a newel post fixed to the property. To repair a loose newel, bore a 1-inch-deep hole into the base of the post with a 1-inch-diameter spade bit. We always start with the Newel Post at the top of the Stairs, cut this post off 200mm above the Floor level.
You really need some sort of access from below with a bolt, if you are not willing to do a ceiling patch in the basement (its a BASEMENT after all), then you can do a floor patch, but it has to be solid. Then at the front of the Post where the Stair String enters the Post measure down to the top edge of the Stair String, this will be between 190mm and 210mm depending on the angle of the Stairs. I am very happy with the finished product, the only thing that we do not have finished is a base wrap that will be put on the bottom of each post. These holes are where the screws will go through to attach it to the bottom of the stair post and the floor.
In my research, I found that a popular way of securing a solid newel post is to drill a hole in the bottom of it and a matching hole in the stair tread (or floor) where it is mounted. Follow by drilling the newel post portion of the 7/32-inch hole with the 5/16-inch bit to make it wider, but stop widening the hole short of the stair frame. Sometimes these would go right into a finished floor but you don’t have a finished floor here because of the carpet.
So, looking around, it seems you can get kit, like a double ended bolt, that enables you to cut the old post off at floor level, and screw a new one into the top of it. Seems simple enough. The means of fastening the bolt within the newel post so as to secure the railing therewith is accomplished by placement onto the bolt of a washer 14 and nut 15. In this method a steel plate with a keyhole is recessed into the finished floor and attached with screws. Drill holes in the concrete of the right diameter for lead shields using a masonry bit in a hammer drill. To attach the plate, we have to drill a pilot hole dead center in the bottom of the newel post.
This prevents the chuck of the drill from damaging the finish on the newel post. Once the holes are drilled, remove the template anchor and position the post and anchor over the holes for final attachment. Now loop a piece of Rope around the Ball on the top of the Posts and insert a small piece of Timber or a large Screwdriver in to the Rope and twist it until it is tight enough to pull the Posts tight against the Shoulders of the Tenons. Basically though, in this method a single hanger bolt is threaded into the floor (with appropriate backing).
While this method of newel post installation does require a plugged hole, the strength and durability it provides makes it well worth it in my mind. If you’re not as lucky as these homeowners and could mount your handrail post right down into the ground, then it’s a lot easier than you think to mount it to concrete. Cut the tread so it fits halfway around the 4×4 post on the new newel post base.
KITE WINDER A space saving feature made up of several triangular steps turning around a single newel post, requires a special newel type. Cover those screw heads with the baseboard you have wrapped around the bottom of the newel post. I’m not saying you can’t get a good secure connection with them (although I do think they make plumbing the post more difficult than it should be) I just really think they’re ugly.