How To Miter Cut A Crown Molding

Seeing crown molding being cut is a whole different ballgame than just reading about it. It puts things into perspective, and cutting crown molding is all about how you look at it — literally. Once you make a first few calculations and cuts, you will either find any potential mistakes or get more confident with your work. Crown molding comes in lengths of 8 ft (can fit in your car) to 16 ft (probably cannot fit in your car) so you will likely buy a little more than you need, which is great for making mistakes. As Jesper pointed out, the scale on the older miter hand saw box starts at 90 degrees in the center and decreases to either side. The size of crown molding and trim that you will be installing will determine the size of saw needed. They’re gapped a bit and grout was worked into the joint, so it’s a very slightly eased corner.

So I simply set 38 degrees left, cut left, set 38 degrees right, cut right – put the two pieces together and I have a perfect miter joint. I always worked with drafting triangles, 30 degrees and 45 degreees,and a protractor, so everything was always measured in terms of the included angle. I’ll be making up my own design but this really helps as a starting off place for my miter saw station. Most mitre saws these days come with a blade laser, but only a few deliver the full potential of this technology when it comes to precise mitre work. I bought a Dewalt 10″ (non-slider) and a Forest blade for it. I was amazed at how much better my crown started looking.

That 6 foot piece of molding has been leaning against the bedroom wall for TWO FULL YEARS (#keepingitrealwithkimsix). This will make it more obvious when you have it set up incorrectly BEFORE you make a wrong cut. However, if you plan to be cutting fencing posts you’ll need a bigger blade and a bigger width of cut capacity and therefore a sliding mitre saw is for you. Place the jointed edges on a flat surface and position the cut ends against each other. This tool works well when making frames with pre-finished stock (which most frame shops happen to use), as it does not cause chip out like a miter saw would.

A: According to the safety instructions that come with a radial arm saw, your cutting methodology is right for that machine: start with the motor head closest to the column and protected by the fence, and pull it through the wood to make the cut. Place the top of the crown molding face up, flat on the table, with the top of the crown moulding next to the fence and make the cut.

See, crown molding is just like regular molding, except it’s put on the wall at an angle. However, cleaning up the surface after cutting alters the length, so it is wise to check the fit afterwards and make adjustments if required. Once the marking-up has been done, the block that will be the mitre piece can be removed and cut as required. Then, while the miter is still tight, drive a pair of brads through the outside corners at opposite angles to pin it.

Then make another cut, and leave the piece in the vise, this will enable you to mark the end of where the blade cuts, and scribe a deep line in the table, at a right angle to the end of the cut part…this will give you the point to meet when you stick the part in, and it will cut right every time. Like a radial arm a mitre saw should have a blade with a negative hook angle to push the material down and into the fence.

If you are able to purchase crown that is the length of your wall, you can simply” cut the corners of each wall and nail it up. If, like me, you have a room that is larger than 8 x 8 feet and you cannot fit crown molding longer than 8 feet, you will have to cut the ends at an angle where two boards will meet. To achieve perfect joints more consistently opt for a power miter saw over a manual saw. I make a single miter cut on one end of each of the four frame pieces, and reserve an offcut for use as a stop block. I was originally going to use compound miters but my tiny, pea brain couldn’t figure that out at all.