When I’m teaching students to use a lathe, sharpening is one of the biggest hurdles to overcome. While there are occasions when it might not pay to hone a woodturning tool after grinding, such as using it to hammer-drill holes in concrete, or turning Australian Wombat Wood (which measures about 7 on the MOS scale) in the ordinary course of woodturning what you should be asking yourself is not whether it pays to hone, but rather how can you hone more efficiently.
The turner that works at the local Woodcraft said that a light touch on the grinder is the way to go. He said I was wasting my time getting a mirror finish, said that gouges and such actually work better without it. Just thought I’d see if anyone agrees with this or not. When sharpening a gouge, work the sides of the grind first because that’s where the most material is to be removed, then carefully work on the curved front of the fingernail.” It is very easy to remove too much metal at that point. Jigs can help a lot with bowl gouges Get or make a oneway wolverine or Ellsworth style jig for grinding modern bowl gouge grinds.
You can easily put a mirror edge on your turning tools (or for that matter your pocket knife) in very little time (15 seconds a side does amazing things to a utility knife blade). Tormek Grinder, Japanese Water Stone Wheels for Tormek Grinders Although there is much sharpening machinery on the market, little of it is for wet sharpening. The system is quite spendy compared to the Harbor Freight system but comes with some jigs that would make many sharpening operations repeatable.
Honing doesn’t take long and makes the edge lasts longer and less trips to the grinder. There are some terrific new slow-speed grinders on the market today, and many of these come with the type of wheels that are well suited for sharpening lathe tools. The chisel and plane iron port is adjustable in five degree increments from 20 to 35 degrees, giving you more say in choosing a bevel angle, along with the ability put on a quick and easy to re-hone 5 degree micro-bevel. The Wolverine has an accessory tool holder called a Vari-Grind jig that is required if you are sharpening bowl gouges with an Irish” or swept back” grind.
Plus we will add in some great attachments for tool sharpening and large faceplate work. The Tormek also employs a handy stone grading system that lets you do both coarse grinding and fine sharpening with the same stone. I fully understand and respect the tradition aspect of wood turning or woodworking in general. I have not heard much from wood turners about PM, probably because it is relatively new in this application. At the Sharpening Shack we use slow wet-grinding Tormek machines and hi-quality wet stones to sharpen most wood turning tools. I also put a new edge on some of my older chisels and found I could restore the fine edge on my woodturning chisels by honing alone.
This operation assumes that the correct geometry has previously been achieved, and we aim to keep it that way as we sharpen the chisel hundreds or even thousands of times. Then relocate the tool rest as close as possible to the wood surface, and at a height such that the scraper is on the centreline of the work when it is held flat on the tool rest and horizontal. The thing that would make it so much better of course would be a Oneway Wolverine Sharpening Jig, but alas, finances being what they are, I couldn’t really ask Santa for that after getting the grinder.
The cooling system prevents over-heating that would affect the hardness of the tool; the slower speed makes the grinding operation easier to control, and also prevents centrifugal force sufficient to drench the operator with coolant. The tool rest bar is made of thick steel that seems like it would hold up to any weight you and your tools may be putting on it (not that you should be applying much pressure when sharpening). Then I hone it with just a few strokes from a medium diamond sharpening paddle and it cuts pretty easy and smoothly.
I recommend that a beginner start by getting a fairly modest chisel kit, learn how to use them, and then slowly add other tools to their collection. Homemade sharpening jig for woodturning tools.. free plans (engslish) page size a4 dropbox/s/fki47vwcusgdgq4/sharpening%20jig%20plans%20for%20woodturning%?Dl=0 free plans. In the first article of this series, I explained my plan to present this topic as two subjects – Tool Point Geometry, and Sharpening. If turning green wood gives off a lot of water, for a log in a beaver pond, you better have a snorkle on your helmet! Though I must confess I only use the camber friendly Eclipse jig for bench planes.
It’s easy to get into the rhythm of sharpening and forget to check what you’re doing, so you’ll have to work hard to make a habit of stopping frequently to look at what’s happening to the tool. They’re extremely efficient, they’re less expensive than any other stones, and they cover a far wider range of grits than any other sharpening system. Precision sharpening with controlled slideway – The benefits and precision of a grinding machine at your bench grinder from precision dressing of the wheel to the finest grinds.
Using a jig is an option, however, one that will pay you back in dividends of enjoyment of turning as well as reduce the cost of your tools over time. If the rest is reasonably long it makes it easier to sharpen chisels as the hands can then be slid backwards and forwards along it. As a consequence it is necessary to modify the rest on many machines.
There is another system for sale that keeps the end of your gouge or chisel on the grinding wheel when you are turning it. I would probably opt to purchase this system over the Nova, even though it is a little more money, if I were to replace the Nova system, because it would be easier and faster to use. The belt sander came with a large tool rest which could not be set to the angles needed for grinding edge tools – typically in the 20 to 30 degree range. It’s an extremely basic, yet very functional tool that is essential for sharpening lathe tools.