I recently received an email from Doug who asked a very good question concerning some major power tool purchases. I simply do a dance moving between the various functions, first breaking down most solid woods to rough length, then to the jointer function where I joint one face and one edge, then to the band saw where I rip to rough width and thickness (way safer than ripping on a circular saw), back to the planer where I plane to exact width and thickness and then back to the saw function where I cut to exact length.
But the advantages of the jointer (can flatten one face dead flat-this dependent on how wide the jointer is), it can make perfect straight edges for gluing-jigs for planers cannot give the consistency that jointers do for edges, you control what gets cut on the jointer (pressure, where you start the feed-planer takes that control away), and finally the jointer allows the ease of producing 90 degree corners to the flat face or even other angles for bevelling-very handy.
The cut quality is surprisingly clean for a 2 blade unit and the versatility is a plus in a small package, but I am afraid I will not be able to parallel the jointer tables & definitely won’t be able to keep them that way if I can achieve that…precise long stock edging IS NOT an option for this machine, but I will certainly adapt to it’s limitations.
After the last cabinet I built, I made a committment to myself to stop working with sheet goods and focus on building furniture made from solid wood so my planer will definately see more use; however, its still so much more efficient to put a flat and square side on a piece of stock even if I’m going to turn to using hand planes that I doubt I’d ever stop using my jointer.
We always used the jointer first in order to get a perfectly straight edge, because It didn’t mater what process came next ( weather it be ripping timber through the bench saws, moulding the edges on the spindle moulders, running it through the planner, or getting set up for gluing up) THE VERY FIRST THING, before anything else, was that you needed a perfect straight edge or face, to work from!
The thing that i don’t like looking at pics online with the combo machine is the fench looks egh. All-out performance: The longest jointer beds in the industry, parallelogram jointer table adjustment, industrial fence, four-post planer bed, and optional powered movement with LED readouts (in three-phase configuration). Here is a link to a simple jig that fits in a planer that any budget woodworker could make in their garage. Please contact your local Home Depot store for information on how to order blades and what is available.
I have have both now but had a jointer first and I ether flattened them buy hand with a belt sander or hand plane but also took them to my local cabinet shop and had them planed. So much of what I have been building this year involves using sheet goods and dimensioned lumber that the jointer gets used to put a straight edge on things as well as prep for glue ups etc, whereas the planer only gets used when I’m dimensioning stock or dealing with rough material.
But you can easily get away with just a thickness planer at first AND then buying a jointer later. In planer mode, a J/P combo has an advantage over the typical lunchbox planer in that the bed goes up and down while the planer head is fixed. Our extensive selection of jointer planer combos gives every craftsman the ability to choose the proper tools to complete all types of projects. We’ve got all the accessories you’ll need to achieve great results while using your Planer and Jointer.
Had the alignment been off across the blades in addition, I’d have had to figure out how much to adjust the sideways alignment and make the left spacers different from their right mates. Although I bought my jointer first (Ridgid special from the Home of Despots), I would have most likely received more benefit from having the planer first (once again, a 13″ Ridgid special from the Home…I see a theme developing).
You can also buy a combo unit from Jet that combines both tools, these run $2,244. I would also choose a planer first, you can always make a sled or something to go through your planer and get a board perfectly flat. I just bought the LN planes because I am on the slllliiiiiipppppeeeerrrrryyyy slope of hand planes. To my mind, this is like have a concavity along the full length of a jointer plane sole and would make accurate jointing difficult at best.
And all that without using any sort of infeed/outfeed table – that’s how good the planer is. The jointer fence held 90 the whole time (some people say things drift over time, I didn’t see it in one day – but with lots of wood). In a nutshell, a jointer is used to remove material at a specific depth in order to flatten one face or one edge of a board.
There are more uses for a jointer overall but one, straightening edges for glue ups, really tipped the usage numbers in its favor. Standing at number five of this list is the POWERTEC BJ600 Bench Jointer with Built-In Dust Collection, 6-1/8-Inch. If you assume Doug has a table saw, his choice of planer or jointer may be different than if he doesn’t. From model # 113.206931 jointer good used condition with , some light scratches and scuffs.
Felder………Arguably the top of the heap in combination machines…….They’re in the running for my next purchase. Solid, cast iron jointer tables, self-aligning cutter-block, patented jointer table adjustment system plus many other fine details make for sensational results with the A3 31. This extended review of the A3-31 and the general topic of j-p combo machines are unsolicited and uncompensated. When straightening the edge, we usually straighten one edge on the jointer and then go to the table saw to cut the other edge parallel to the jointed one. Eventually you’ll have both the planer and the jointer and 4-square boards will be just minutes away.
You can always rip boards on the table saw, but getting then down to a uniform thickness without access to a planer is next to impossible. I think it would be a whole lot easier to flatten a board using planner than a jointer. If I need to flatten one face (which is very rare – only if I have a rough-sawn board), then I can still get it flat with the hand planes. You can purchase a stand for this 10-in Benchtop Planer/Jointer Combo from Global Industries. Burundian tampere jet 10 inch jointer planer manual been asked upto the anonymously syllabic scholarliness.
I’m leaning towards a Grizzly 8inch Jointer and a separate 15inch grizzly planer. To switch from the Jointer to the Planer, pull the guard arm out of the way, toward the outfeed table. In woodworking the term jointer was first used to mean a large hand plane that is used for truing up the edges of timber to make neat joints. Infinity Tools Jointer knives and Planer knives are manufactured to the tightest tollerences in the industy and are trusted by cabinet makers, production woodworkers and serious home hobbyists.
The OEM system on the Dewalt DW735 planer was quite easy, and now with the Shelix cutterhead with carbide-tipped inserts installed, changing blades is practically a non-issue. By way of explaining how I settled on the combination machine, let me recount my stock preparation history. But roughsawn lumber is cheaper, and is available from hardwood dealers in much wider variety of wood species, so you will want a jointer at some point (and a planer; more on that later). The nice thing too about hand planes is that you can use them to joint an edge.