Your Guide To Cutting Crown Molding

Crown molding encapsulates a large family of moldings which are designed to gracefully flare out to a finished top edge. Doing so will give you practice and experience, allowing you to make a better cut when it actually counts. The orange colored piece indicates that the top edge of the crown molding will be away from the fence (closer to you) instead of against the fence. The size of crown molding and trim that you will be installing will determine the size of saw needed.

After cutting the corner pieces, glue and nail them together, then cut 45-degree overlapping angles on the outer ends where they will be joined to intersecting running lengths. Given the wall and spring angles, this application will calculate the miter and bevel angles used to cut the crown molding so that two pieces will come together to achieve the wall angle at the given spring angle. Both stationary compound and sliding compound miter saws are available in single or dual bevel models. You can make straight cuts faster and better with a miter saw (more on that later).

That’s why most miter saw gauges are set up off 90 degrees to the back of the fence! Divide this measurement by two and make your initial bevel cut according to this figure. Leave the bevel setting at this position thru-out this molding installation procedure. Crown molding is usually nailed to the wall studs along the bottom edge and into the ceiling joists above-a lot of stud-finder work.

A simple setup for cutting crown molding that doesn’t require any special jigs or fixtures-just a 1×6 sacrificial crown stop! Place the crown molding on the table of the saw with the beveled cuts flat against the fence and table (see video). Crown and cove moldings that rest at an angle against the wall and ceiling require a slightly different beveling technique to reveal the profile for coping.

Inside Corner to Outside Corner: Measure the distance from the inside corner to the outside corner and cut the crown molding as shown. Since the most commonly coped molding is baseboard, we’ll use that as our example. If you prefer to cut the crown flat, as many do, your saw’s manual will probably have a chart indicating which bevel & miter angles correspond to which wall angles. Glide your cut piece of molding over this unaltered piece, lining them up as evenly as possible. The other molding has a coped cut that fits perfectly against the face of the first molding.

When the two pieces mate smoothly, cut the opposite end of the coped piece to suit the opposite wall corner. Molding is hand-held, upside down, pressed into the fence and base plate at the angle it will be attached. To avoid cutting the molding too short, always used the most extreme point as the reference point. Also, if you corners are our of square, you’ll either have to make micro adjustments to your saw settings to get a perfect corner joint. Scabbing the pieces together” is a phrase used to refer to the joining of two sticks of molding together at the wall’s center.

The Miter Mate comes with an removable angle finder” which has a locking function to hold the angle while you bring it back to the saw and match the saw fence to the angle finder. To make matching bevel cuts (left and right), you have to flip over your workpiece and reset the angle to ensure it’s accurate before you make the second bevel cut. As mentioned above, avoiding compound cuts will save you time and make it easier to negotiate corners that don’t measure out to nice, polite 90 and 45 degree angles.