As someone who loves a good gallery wall but never quite knows how to properly install one in my home, you can bet your bottom dollar I will be soaking up all the super helpful information Joe Provey sent our way about wall anchors and how to install them. Oh, and the holes in the mirror are there for hanging it. Get some decorative rosettes to cover the bolt heads. So whether you want to hang a five pound picture, or put up a shelf that can support a hundred pounds or more, now you have the know-how to do it. I was driving to an art showing in California where I had to hang 22 paintings. The extra 3/4 inch will allow room so you can position the mirror without scratching the adjacent walls.
I always find a stud to really take the guessork out of hanging something that heavy. But you hang something off of it anyways even if it doesn’t seem like it’s going to work because you paid for it and installed it and can’t think of any other way to do it. Then your cow falls down. When we install mirrors over bathroom vanities and such, we don’t even worry about where the studs are, just center the mirro (or wherever you want it) and put in the anchors. This method uses a special type of mount called a french cleat to hang your mirror, rather than a hanging wire. As Stoner has indicated 10Kg isn’t massively heavy given the way the weight will hang on the wall.
How to Frame a Plate-Glass Wall Mirror (I picked this tutorial because I liked the look the best and you don’t have to cut any angles!) But these tips – -to-frame-your-bathroom-mirror-over-plastic-clips/ and this tutorial – – are also very helpful! Hence in general it’s advisable not to use wire and d rings for very heavy pictures because it’s been known for the wire to create a lot of strain that in turns pulls a one screw D ring out of the back of the frame – and the picture comes crashing down. From the picture framing shop or hardware store where you got the wire, get heavy duty wall fasteners.
The wire broke, the mirror hit the mantle, bounced off, hit the back of a leather couch and landed on the carpet. The typical hanging hardware for a large mirror is two-hole or three-hole D-rings, intended for direct wall connection without wire. Try to get at least one of the screws/D-rings on a stud, and use a drywall anchor for the other side if necessary. Place the side that was aligned with the side of the mirror located at the mark on the wall for the corresponding side of the mirror.
The ones in your picture are toggle bolts, one draw back is that they are not as precise, and seem to require tightening down for it to work, so there won’t be a bolt stick out for you to hang with, unless you use that to secure a cleat or bracket. In modern houses studs are generaly set at 16inch (406mm) centres if they are using 8×4 sheets or at 450 centres if metric size boarding is being used. Domestic homes will always have exterior walls and load-bearing walls which are suitable for hanging items which are a heavy weight.
BEST ANSWER: It was a year or so back when I mounted my heavy mirror so I don’t remember the spacing. Look for winged, threaded or sleeve-type anchors that work with your existing walls, and secure them where you want to install your mirror. Place one piece of tape on the top of the construction paper and tape to the wall at the location for the top of the mirror. Measure the distance from the floor to the height you want the mirror to hang and mark the spot with a pencil.
The hooks are basically mounted to a wooden plaque that is supposed to screw in flush with the wall. These are the walls from which to hang a very large or very heavy picture (or mirror i.e. there’s a good reason why very large mirror are very often found on chimney breasts). This gives you enough clearance so you can slip the mirror into the top channel and then lower it into the bottom one.
What is so brilliant about these is that you do not need ANY power tools to pop one of these in your walls and it will take you less than two minutes to hang your heavy items! Threaded toggles are easy to install, though they can be a bit tricky to remove, and safely supported over 200 pounds in drywall in our tests. Position the mirror in the channels, then press firmly on the surface of the mirror to spread the mastic. Sometimes bad house construction can be look luck for this, in that you may be able to see the faint impression of nail heads in your drywall, and this usually indicates the location of studs.
These anchors work in walls of all thicknesses, including drywall or gypsum board, as well as in plaster walls, concrete walls, and brick walls. I’m thinking the mirror company doesn’t want to be held liable if you use a wire and the mirror’s weight/tilt causes it to come off the wall…especially if you are just hanging the wire on the screw heads (which I wasn’t planning on doing).
What makes it a tricky job at times is the fact that drywall is constructed of lightweight materials and is not designed to support heavy hanging objects. My handymen just glued my large mirror to the wall with dabs of special mirror glue. Keep in mind that the effective weight of your mirror can increase when you pull it away from the wall to clean under it. Other types of mastics, like construction or panel adhesives, may damage the silver coating on the back of the mirror.
If drywall over studs, find the studs, use the existing holes in the mirror, and hang it like you’d hang something from a picture rail: a nail (or an anchor of some sort) in two adjacent wall studs, connecting to the top two anchor points in the mirror with a loop of strong wire. I’ve used the ones bjhat mentions and they are easy to use, and the most suitable for heavy stuff however if the mirror weighs over a certain amount then the gyprock itself might break up. We had a mirror like the one you describe in our house when I was a kid many years ago. Or more, depending on the thickness of the drywall and the size of the anchor bolt.
You want to be sure that the bolt goes right into the center of the stud though, otherwise the weight of the mirror can cause the bolt to be ripped out of the stud, which will cause your mirror to fall and break and your wall to be damaged. Toggle Bolts: These robust fasteners come in a variety of lengths and bolt diameters depending on the amount of weight they are intended to support and the thicknesses of the wall they are used on. While able to support over 300 pounds in drywall in our tests, toggle bolts require an oversized hole in order to insert the spring loaded fastener.
Tap-N-Lock Drywall Anchor: Backing splits when the screw is set for a better hold. They can in certain circumstances be used for drywall but you’re taking your chances. These pieces of wood will fit together to create a sturdy hanging platform for your mirror. They are especially useful when you have to maneuver the mirror into a tight space where it may be difficult to get a good hand-hold around the edges of the mirror. Find the center point of where you want the mirror to be. Measure half the anchor-point separation distance to either side of that center point, at whatever height you want the anchor points.
Description: Works in drywall and wood and won’t break if you hit a stud; has threads to prevent anchors from pulling out easily. When we had our bathroom renovated we hung the mirror using double sided tape directly to the plasterboard the mirror weighs around six kilo’s and the people who fitted it used silicone around the edges only problem is it is now permanently fitted.
If you wanted to minimise the damage to the walls, you could cut two lengths of wood (something like 50mm square would be enough) so that they are long enough to reach from the floor to the top of where you want the mirror to be. Screw them to the wall using a single screw at the top of each one, with the bottom resting on the floor and with the pieces of wood the right distance apart for the screw holes, then screw the mirror to the pieces of wood.
Next I have always successfully used the studs, although they NEVER line up where they should be, but using two ‘hook’ type structures on the wall and close enough to where the eyelets on the mirror are, should be ok. AFTER hanging, level the mirror by sliding a bit from side to side I know, the mirror doesn’t quite end up where you wanted it, but can be close enough to work out and use a thin foam backing tape along the lower backside of the mirror.