Installing Interior Window Trim

Measuring from the bottom (or the shortest) edge of the angle you just created, measure the distance that you determined in step #2 and make a mark. If this is the case, trim the two pieces of vertical casing off square on the bottom, flush with the bottom of the sill. To cut the side casing without measuring: Cut the miter and stand the casing upside down (and plumb) on the stool with its thick edge against the point of the miter on the head casing. With only a couple of nails in each piece, you can make small adjustments by holding a block against the trim and tapping it with a hammer. The blocks are slightly wider and thicker than the casing, making them the most forgiving way to wrap trim around a window or door opening. Dust your window frame, especially the tops of sashes and window sills, each time you clean.

If your window has a window sill that extends out from the window at the bottom, you only need to install three pieces of casing. I have a similar bay window in my dining area and I want to frame them, but I hate the yellow plastic sill that is already there, so I wanted to replace it. I love how the sill on your bay window wraps all the way around. Unlike your trim board brick mold, decorative molding is pretty ugly in the corners unless you cut it on a 45 degree angle-aka a miter joint.

Typically, the apron is the casing turned upside down, which is what we have done here. I measured the distance between the window sill and the top of the window (43″) and cut two 1 x 4 pieces to fit. Reproduction and Replacement Window Options – This article was published in the Old House Journal by Gordon Bock. The head casing, jambs and sill are often extended, with cornices for added style.

If the replacement windows were two-over-two, the window lights would match the first floor in shape. Place this piece of casing 1/8” above the top edge of the window opening, centered over the window and parallel with the window stool. Start nailing at the miter, nailing through the casing and into the jamb with 4d finishing nails and into the wall with 6d nails. To make a more even surface, I nailed some strips of foam sill seal insulation next to the nailing flange.

We have MDF casing on all of our windows and while a less expensive option, we have found that any condensation from temp differences inside and outside have caused almost every single casing to swell and become disfigured. I cut a board to fit over and around the edges of the sill, adding about another 2″ of depth and 1″ of length. Today’s Replacement Windows, offer one piece of glass with flat plastic window grids attached on the interior to imitate the look of traditional windows separated by window muntins. Most casings are backcut; that is, they have a shallow channel (or channels) cut in their backs.

I still make a cut list and work as productively as possible at the saw, cutting all the legs, and then the heads, so I’m cutting long lengths first and getting all the shorts out of what is left, plus my saw stand and repetitive stops are setup for long lengths first and then 2/6, 2/8, and 3/0 heads (after the 4/0 and 5/0 heads are cut!). All windows – yes each and every window must also have a window sill at the base.

She assured me our local West Edmonton store would have just the profile of MDF casing & baseboards that I was looking for to make our DIY simple craftsman / shaker trim and she was right! Miter the top window casing on each end at a 45° angle, so the short mitered edge is 1/4” longer than the width of the window opening to allow for the 1/8” reveals on each side of the opening. I like to mark off the reveal first, so I can get very accurate measurements and only have to cut the casings once.

Preparing for Install: We pre-nailed our pieces with our nails just until the nail poked through the wood, this kept the wood from not only splitting but gave us more control when trying to keep corners lined up when we were installing. Transfer the reveal mark on the door head jamb edge to the edge of a door casing. Add a distinctive exterior clad casing to Marvin windows and doors to enhance your home’s architectural detail.

Additionally, if you’re installing moldings in a crowded or narrow hallway or room, it may make the room feel to busy to have wall colors that contrast with the trim colors. On a wood building the brick mold should not be confused with the window casing nor be used to substitute window casing. And because outside mount shades or blinds are installed higher than the window opening, when they are fully raised you can take in the entire view.

A homeowner may order a replacement window and be satisfied with all the details discussed with the sales person only to discover that the window is delivered with a Brick Mold instead of window casings. Unfortunately, new windows will always have a narrower casing and the majority of new construction windows and wood window replacements are even completely absent of window casings. Finally, set your miter saw to 22½-degrees and cut a fourth piece of casing the same width as the top piece with the outside angles on each side reversed as before. Before you nail it off though, stand back and eyeball it to make sure its straight.

Notice the square window lights on the second floor and the vertical window lights on the first floor. Before I call it a day, I take the stops out and operate the window to make sure it functions properly. The window nailing flange is about 1/8 inch thick, and it creates an irregular surface for the casing boards. Two-over-two window designs are correct for the architectural style and the colors work nicely.

I also measure ¾ inch in from the back edge of the stool and mark it. I’m going to remove all the material behind that mark. Instead of window sashes being recessed about 3 inches inside the window casing, the Proud Window sash is flush or protrudes (is proud) from the window casing and the siding on the house. In other words, larger window lights like one-over-one are more forgiving with different size windows than four or six-over one. The window sash makes this window look a lot better but the design of this window casing is still unacceptable even for a barn or shed.

Sometimes your window casing isn’t deep enough for an inside mount, but don’t despair! In less traditional construction the sill is eliminated and the casing is wrapped around the window like a picture frame This technique demands a little more joint-making skill. The image above was graphically modified replacing half the windows with double-hung window sashes for comparison.

Vinyl window are awesomely weather resistant so I knew we didn’t have actual window issues. Rectangular window lights on one set of windows and square window lights on the other. You can see the trim gauge in action in this window trim installation video Although I’m not crazy about the way he builds and installs the trim, it is a great demonstration of this nifty little tool and there are a few useful tips in it as well. Cut a length of casing with an inside miter on each end (like a picture frame).

Materials- There are lots of materials you can use – fiber-cement trim boards, extruded aluminum trim from the window manufacturer, or plain old wood. I have tile in place now and will be replacing it. I plan on removing my trim when I remove the existing tile and then creating rabbets on the new trim to allow me to run the new partially behind it. Faster and cleaner I believe. Then I’ll cut a left leg and hold it up to a door to double check (critical step!!) I then set a stop on my saw stand and cut all my left legs rapidly using the stop/jig.

I’m not particularly handy, so it might just be best for me to hire a great contractor to make sure the job gets done properly. To figure the length of the side casings, measure the distance from the stool to the top of the opening of the window, add 1/4″ for reveal line. Backer rod can works very well but do not force the rod into the space so the window or door frame is bent or deflected even a small amount.

The problem is that the best quality window companies will sell you a window for your wood sided home, with a brick mold that is only about 1-2 inches when you need a casing that is 4.5-6 inches wide. Besides being cheap, strong, and not requiring the destruction of old growth forests, OSB and plywood also make for very tight window installs. For an inside mount: The brackets should be placed up against the inside top corner of each side of the window. Also, before installing the casing, carefully measure and test-fit the leg pieces and corner blocks. I believe in making a cut list for ONE room, cutting, fitting, and installing those pieces, and then cutting the next room.

Now if the measurements vary by more than 1/4″ each piece will have to be cut separately for it to work, some may have to be tapered if their measurements vary quite a bit. Another invaluable widget I use to record measurements and notes while working is a round mylar disk available from Fastcap that sticks to the face of your tape measure. The first thing you should know, if you must replace your wood windows or anything on your house, with a product different than that you are replacing – use the Arms Length Rule”.

Cut the rod to the desired length, and press it into the gap so that it’s slightly below the surrounding surfaces. Houses constructed after the Civil War (Victorian architecture) would most likely have a two-over-two window design. Altering any of these features will make a dramatic change in a building’s overall appearance and its setting within your neighborhood. The extra 1/2 inch provides a 1/4-inch gap – also known as the reveal – on all sides between the casing and the window sill to provide the aesthetic typically used on windows.

To make sure you receive our emails in your Inbox, drag them from the new Gmail Promotions Tab over to your primary Inbox. Install: We chose to install the bottom piece first holding up the sides to make sure it was centered and then worked our way up installing the sides next and finishing with our top piece. Start by ripping down 1/2′ Purebond to the width of the sides of your window openings. The first piece of casing I measure up for on mitred window trim is the header. Then I’ll demonstrate two ways for installing moldings: the time honored one-piece-at-a-time method, and a new way of pre-assembling casing that ensures tight miters and a neat job.